Saint Laurent S/S 2024 Paris

Stunning and very YSL. This is going to be very commercially successful the downside is that fast fashion clones are probably already being manufactured as we speak. The campaign for this will be awesome lots of stunning faces in the cast to pick from.
YES to the rail-thin models, though; it's nice to know he isn't trying to appease the social media mob.

I find this kind of sentiment from the fashion industry rather disturbing. Some designers that cast models in different sizes arent trying to appease social media or some hash tag, they are trying to make their clothes inclusive. The commercial collection shown here would look good on any body type. Obviously some brands go overboard and get lost trying to appear inclusive but not all.
 
Very repetitive, and he could have pushed the idea of the safari suit a little further. But god damn, this is exactly how I want to look next summer.
 
Every time Saint Laurent does this Saharien jacket inspiration, my (diagnosed) OCD reminds me that weird rabbit hole that Yves was credited as a "With the participation of” in a short film from the late 1990s called "My friend Rachid" told from the point of view of a 9-year-old boy white boy who fetishizes his arabic speaking friend Rachid who is like 15 years old and pays him so Rachid lets him touch him. It's a bizarre short film and I remember years ago the short film being discussed in forums in relation to Yves and Yves being credited in many databases incluiding IMDb but now every mention of Yves in relation to this short film has been wiped from the internet. So you have to find the short film now to see that he is indeed in the ending credits. Oh God, I will never know peace.
 
Every time Saint Laurent does this Saharien jacket inspiration, my (diagnosed) OCD reminds me that weird rabbit hole that Yves was credited as a "With the participation of” in a short film from the late 1990s called "My friend Rachid" told from the point of view of a 9-year-old boy white boy who fetishizes his arabic speaking friend Rachid who is like 15 years old and pays him so Rachid lets him touch him. It's a bizarre short film and I remember years ago the short film being discussed in forums in relation to Yves and Yves being credited in many databses incluiding IMDb but now every mention of Yves in relation to this short film been wiped from the internet. So you have to find the short film now to see that he is indeed in the ending credits. Oh God, I will never know peace.
I looked up the film and the synopsis is so creepy (Cadinot-level creepy). No wonder why the house wants to cut relations with the film.
 
I looked up the film and the synopsis is so creepy (Cadinot-level creepy). No wonder why the house wants to cut relations with the film.

It is creepy. Funnily enough, the only link you can find between the short film and Yves in Google is this mention of a result in the British Film Institute database but when you click the link, it's gone. It has always fascinated me how powerful people can wipe things off the internet. Like how? hahaha

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Every time Saint Laurent does this Saharien jacket inspiration, my (diagnosed) OCD reminds me that weird rabbit hole that Yves was credited as a "With the participation of” in a short film from the late 1990s called "My friend Rachid" told from the point of view of a 9-year-old boy white boy who fetishizes his arabic speaking friend Rachid who is like 15 years old and pays him so Rachid lets him touch him. It's a bizarre short film and I remember years ago the short film being discussed in forums in relation to Yves and Yves being credited in many databases incluiding IMDb but now every mention of Yves in relation to this short film has been wiped from the internet. So you have to find the short film now to see that he is indeed in the ending credits. Oh God, I will never know peace.
He financed ton of art projects in the 90s, not always credited, mostly theater plays and musicians too, to my knowledge he bought at least 3 antiques violons and 2 cellos for them.
He was quite liberal with money as long as you knew how to talk to him…. A bit Madame Bettencourt back then. Some people were clearly profiteering from him.
 
the irony that pilati's ouevre was more forward-facing and modern than everything vaccarello has done thus far...

Within context of this absolutely abysmal fashion era where the art of grifting to sell outlet basics sloppily strewn with logo/monograms has infested every single once great brand, And let's be frank, Anthony is and never will be a great talent. And yet, his YSL has become a consistent palette-cleanser that notably harken back to greater talents and designs, but still can't evolve from the superior era of fashion design as the one that Yves reigned in, nor the one Pilati reigned in; Hell— even Pilati’s current efforts are rather on the totally disposable side that his former YSL-day self would have cringed at. And had Anthony been working, and offered such “luxury” basics a decade ago, all this would have been ignored, since the standards were so high back then. Now that the floodgates/gatekeepers/high standards been thrown 4 directions to the wind and wolves, such a precise, no-nonsense classic aesthetic of both form and design, and timelessness in beauty and fashion standards are so confidently displayed-- but absolutely reductive, it's good enough. Not a whiff nor glimpse of overpriced clownwear, childrenswear, dragwear, sloppy rags and outlet basics, and more importantly, not a single logo/monogram eyesore. Sure, it’s just variations on just 4 looks LOL but I’ll take it (...Banana Republic tainted stain and all).
 
Yea but people only liked Pilati for a couple seasons… at the time people hated him. His YSL occupied my mens wardrobe for as long as HS DH did. I only recently (4~ yrs) parted with my final SP pieces because I had worn them out. It was a hunter green twill shirt with black raw hem collar and a ruffled YSL sweater that literally started coming apart at the seams. These things were like 10 years old when they left circulation. I didnt retain anything like DH - bc Pilati is the Marc Bohan of YSL I suppose.


I vaguely remember YSLs relationship w Algeria. I mean we all know why he liked it. We can separate the designer from the man. I remember first finding out about it and thinking that Yves mustve been blithely unaware how it lookes. That is a red flag since it was so normalized to YSL
 
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Pilati was the best artistic director Saint Laurent (post-acquisition) will ever have. Vaccarello is good at creating desirable clothes, but the actual design element is lacking. If only runway shows had this level of production back in the 90s/00s...
That’s quite a statement!
Stefano had 5 fantastic seasons from fall 2006 to fall 2008. I think that time when he tried to distance himself from his mentor, Tom, and create a voice for himself was fabulous.

For me, it’s not a surprise, Tom was the best but I think it’s more because he really had a cohesive POV that was instilled in all categories from beauty to timepieces. And maybe the fact that he delivered those great collections with all that adversity was kinda great too.

Some of my favorite clothes from YSL comes from the Stefano years and there are clothes i still wear 15 years later but I think that he never really understood the Saint Laurent woman. His idols are Prada and Armani and he was really into that very annoying intellectual thing. He took himself too seriously, forgot about frivolity and as soon as Saint Laurent was really successful, he had an impressive 4 years ride of terrible collections.
My god, I still think about the terrible strawberries appliqués on cotton popelin stuff he made!
At some point the highlight of his shows was the footwear.

History and time are kinder to him I guess, like with Frida.

But his menswear was good. The chicest men in Paris wore Saint Laurent.
 
I like the high waist concept and for me it looks like a resort collection between 2006 and 2007 by Pilati...which I find it chic and wearable.
 
took a few days to figure out what i felt was missing in the collection, seems to have lost all the sexy and decadence from previous collections. Im not sure his woman would go to the safari in these. im sure they wont be willing to lose the feathers and glitters in that rare moment they decide to go see simba in the wild.
 
It's definitely fabulous on all levels, but the formula is certainly wearing thin; He has to up his game.
 
for me, YSL has been one of those few fashion houses that nowadays continue to maintain the name it has kept for years. I love the locations they usually choose for shows. Really adds a vibe and point to the collection. I loved accessories, gloves, and headpieces mostly. I love Anthony Vaccarello's work as a creative director of YSL.
 

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