Sarah Burton - Designer, Creative Director of Givenchy

[Thefrenchy]

They will likely go an even more commercial route and I wouldn't be shocked to start seeing t-shirts and sneakers on the runway of McQueen.

My, my, my, did we forget those ugly sneakers the kids know McQueen for nowadays?!

 

[reese06]

My, my, my, did we forget those ugly sneakers the kids know McQueen for nowadays?!

Not at all. I have a pair, but maybe I give the brand too much credit for not including lots of entry level products such as those in their look books and show presentations.

 

[Scotty]

She can be fabulous for Dior though. I simply cannot think of a better person to take over Dior. The tailoring, the feminity, the twisted romantism…

But I thought Mary wasn't going anywhere so why would she get the job?

 

[IndigoHomme]

Riccardo for McQ? The world doesn't need another debut with cropped hoodies and short pencil skirts over the pants, we already got Zara

 

[Lola701]

My, my, my, did we forget those ugly sneakers the kids know McQueen for nowadays?!

I have to admit I have them, the Stan Smith ones with the huge soles in black velvet.
That’s also the heritage of her McQueen though lol.

But I thought Mary wasn't going anywhere so why would she get the job?

A bit a fashion science-fiction theory never hurts nobody.
Tbh, after the end of her non-compete agreement, why not? Maybe Delphine would want a new designer to mark her time at Dior.

‘But she can be great for Givenchy though. It’s bigger than McQueen as a company and she would relaunch with much fanfare Couture and perfumes would be a new challenge for her.

 

[tourbillions]

My, my, my, did we forget those ugly sneakers the kids know McQueen for nowadays?!

Im on my 2nd pair... If that's her heritage, its not much worst than skull scarves... and bumpsters

 

[GivenchyHomme]

She did an excellent job in keeping the house relevant and profitable. She's been at the house for over 26 years. That's an amazing feat for any designer. Perhaps she's going to take a step back and design for a smaller British brand. Wherever she goes, she's probably going to better off because god knows how Kering treats their designers. One thing is certain, the next designer better be ready. They're going to be thrown into the lions den.

 

[jeanclaude]

I can only think about one designer who could fit at McQueen: Olivier Theyskens (he is also a dark designer, his first collections had a lot in common with the ones from Alexander).

But anyways I prefer Olivier keeps being independent, following his own way (and as far as possible from Kering).

 

[gallianostan]

He is good at Margiela. The last thing he needs is to have a huge pressure on his shoulders to turn the brand into a billion euro machine.
We should be happy to have his voice again on the catwalk but the level of exposure and pressure that comes with it is the last thing we want for him…Don’t we?

i’m not sure. i very much doubt the john galliano could receive any more exposure than he already has - he’s one of the greatest and most iconic living designers, after all. dior will comfortably remain the peak of his career regardless of where he chooses to go after margiela. i can’t see mcqueen being anywhere near as demanding as dior was. john has a brilliant commercial mind too - something that many people may not immediately associate with him - and would be the perfect person to take the brand to the next stage of its global evolution. and creatively... it just speaks for itself. galliano at mcqueen would be fashion dynamite. it’s the perfect appointment in my opinion, which is why it’ll never happen lol.

 

[LadyJunon]

To be honest, the scary thing isn't Burton's departure, but the fact that I don't see anyone adequate enough to take over, which is mostly because Lee's vision was so particular and multifaceted that it's almost impossible to reinterpret.

Sarah Burton had been working at the house since 1997, which means that she is part of the team that was behind some of Lee's most iconic collections like Golden Shower, Joan" Nº13, Eshu, Eye and Voss. She's also probably one of the house's few human assets that predate the Gucci (Kering) acquisition back in 2001. Her career and appointment as creative director is very situational, solely for that.

Kering could approach this replacement in three ways:
• Promotion: The replacement would understand the codes of the house, but that raises the question as to whether the potential replacement would actually have a vision fit to lead a brand.
• Poaching: The replacement would add a layer of freshness, along with experience to the brand, but we have the issue of them being too jaded by the commercial restraints of another house to run a house like McQueen.
• Independent Designer: The replacement would probably a bit more risk taking in terms of vision, but it would be an immense waste and shame if all those flashy concepts and showmanship isn't supported by strong technical skills.

Regardless of the direction they take, I hope that they'll run through their candidates portfolios with a fine tooth comb.

 

[Kennnnn]

I suppose that McQueen as a fashion house has changed so much under Kering, that it was no longer important to retain someone with the actual experience of working for Lee McQueen in the early days. For me, the change happened in the late 2000s, possibly 2008 or 2009 - when the product range exploded considerably. So many things to look at, but so few that felt connected to the essence of early McQueen.

 

[gallianostan]

Sarah Burton had been working at the house since 1997, which means that she is part of the team that was behind some of Lee's most iconic collections like Golden Shower, Joan" Nº13, Eshu, Eye and Voss.

nice to see someone else give eye the flowers it deserves. i always felt as though it was underrated. that and the overlook, which was and remains a huge personal favourite.

this just reminds me how formative those early years were. 1994-2001 was mcqueen's golden age.

 

[FelipeV]

Finally! At this moment I don't care if Maria Disgraze goes to McQueen, Burton's out and tomorrow will be another day.

 

[Kimihiro]

I don’t have that high a hope that Kering folks REALLY appreciate fashion, in a way that they’ll keep a house like McQueen just as it is—not a megabrand. This is their clean slate start because Burton predated them so I wish they won’t push for more commercialization. I’m more concerned with that than who’s succeeding because looking for a Lee is a futile exercise.

 

[WAVES]

Lee cannot be replaced. no one can be replaced if we wholesomely think about it.

Sarah had an amazing start when she initiated her tenure at McQueen and gave us beautiful and original collections but truth is, she’s been on a sort of auto pilot mood for the last couple of years. so, best to leave in grace.

now the question everyone is asking: who can replace her?
I believe Theyskens could do an amazing job but he’s probably happy doing his thing.
Del Core could be someone to think of.

I don’t think Riccardo is a good option for McQueen.
Tisci needs to open his own brand and have a fresh original start. if Jacquemus did it with way less influence (and money…) why doesn’t he?

 

[tricotineacetat]

I would love Zowie Broach and Brian Kirkby (the designers behind Boudicca) make a comeback here but I would doubt that would ever come to happen - Despite being fabulously talented designers in their own right, whose legacy shares a few resemblances with McQueen, these two have always been fiercely independent. I doubt they would enjoy working at a conglomerate like Kering.

 

[TaylorBinque]

good for her. she did excellent job at McQueen. Lee was a visionary and unique talent. He could not be replaced. She did extremely well in terms of what she has. She dressed royalties, made stunning red carpet moments, created hit accessories and her clothes are very well made. Lots of people I know do enjoy skull prints and all. They keep the business going. I own a pair of the infamous sneakers and they are very well made. She would do well at Givenchy. The tailoring would be so sick.

 

[IndigoHomme]

Sarah' menswear work was really good, I hope Kering can hire two designers per separate for womenswear and menswear.

Haider Ackermann deserves a big comeback to the scene, and I'm still dreaming what about Joshua Kane and his A-MA-ZING sartorial work can do for this brand, this guy it's a true genius.

P.D. KEEP GABRIELA HEARST' NAME AWAY FROM THIS THREAD

 

[Thefrenchy]

Had a little chat with industry friends and for once no one has a clue about who will go next / potential profile. I wonder what were her motivations, if she wants a (well-deserved) break or if perhaps she'll go somewhere else after the time period brands usually require when you part ways.

 

[gallianostan]

Had a little chat with industry friends and for once no one has a clue about who will go next / potential profile. I wonder what were her motivations, if she wants a (well-deserved) break or if perhaps she'll go somewhere else after the time period brands usually require when you part ways.

guess that suggests she left voluntarily?