Sarah Burton - Designer, Creative Director of Givenchy

[Creative]

Williams is terrible i agree but that was from the start till his last show.

Ancora was terrible basic from the beginning till the end.

Sarah is showing she is continuing on the same path her Mcqueen was and leaning on same tricks that look tired already & that's the concern.

I don't understand why skeptical hypothesis cannot be part of the conversation just as being hopeful is part of the many yet to be presented collections of newly appointed creative directors.

both are based on limited information regardless of a negative or positive outlook.

I adapt a new twist on instead of innocent till proven guilty, Its praise till proven worthy of it!!!! on these new CD appointments

Or only await when its bad or x CD is fired for everyone to have a take on it here or on social media.

but what's the point of that it limiting the discourse and only being reactive to the status quo.

once again i find the pro and contra even in hypothesis form the most interesting as it's yet to unfold

part of fashion and art and culture is to anticipate ...even algorithms and AI is build on this concept of anticipation of future possibilities.

Exactly…

For me a first show is very important, and even more in this period of 5 (at most) year tenures.

As you said:

1st Gucci show under Sabato - a flop. His tenure a flop.
1st Givenchy show under MW - a flop. His tenure a flop.
Same for Chloé under Gabriela, for MGC at Dior, Kim Jones at Fendi, VV at Chanel…

First good/decent shows: JW at Loewe, Chemena for Chloé… both successes.

I think a first show says a lot. And to me it’s clear she doesn’t have a fashion POV. The only word I can use to define her is over designed, out of touch, heavy handed, démodé, corny…

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Exactly…

For me a first show is very important, and even more in this period of 5 (at most) year tenures.

As you said:

1st Gucci show under Sabato - a flop. His tenure a flop.
1st Givenchy show under MW - a flop. His tenure a flop.
Same for Chloé under Gabriela, for MGC at Dior, Kim Jones at Fendi, VV at Chanel…

First good/decent shows: JW at Loewe, Chemena for Chloé… both successes.

I think a first show says a lot. And to me it’s clear she doesn’t have a fashion POV. The only word I can use to define her is over designed, out of touch, heavy handed, démodé, corny…

VV at Chanel I would call it a success
The rooftop show with the crasher was beautiful and easy to wear

 

[LadyJunon]

VV at Chanel I would call it a success
The rooftop show with the crasher was beautiful and easy to wear

Viginie's frst two RTW shows (the rooftop one and the one with the fog) were her strongest collections for the house. It only got really questionable following the pandemic.

 

[tourbillions]

ppp's first few collections were also really good for valentino then went downhill. Gallianos first margiela collections were quite mid and he didnt have a real hit until his last one.

 

[Creative]

Galliano at Margiela was never a success tho. He had one hit show and that’s about it. The rest were broken records (and I adore him, but let’s be honest).

 

[Lola701]

Exactly…

For me a first show is very important, and even more in this period of 5 (at most) year tenures.

As you said:

1st Gucci show under Sabato - a flop. His tenure a flop.
1st Givenchy show under MW - a flop. His tenure a flop.
Same for Chloé under Gabriela, for MGC at Dior, Kim Jones at Fendi, VV at Chanel…

First good/decent shows: JW at Loewe, Chemena for Chloé… both successes.

I think a first show says a lot. And to me it’s clear she doesn’t have a fashion POV. The only word I can use to define her is over designed, out of touch, heavy handed, démodé, corny…

Yet, Riccardo’s first show was received with mixed reviews. Actually his first 2 years at Givenchy were quite weird. He was supported by VP and some retailers but the US press wasn’t a fan.

And here we have a very different thing. Sarah’s debut was received well by the industry generally. It’s more mixed on TFS or social media. That’s where it will be interesting to see how her work in terms of creative direction, will be received.

A first show says a lot but it’s not exact mathematics.

Virginie’s first collection, the resort show and the Couture show were well received. She got mixed and bad reviews as it evolved.

Sarah Burton clearly has a POV. Her POV was loud and clear at McQueen…so loud and so clear that it had nothing to do with McQueen. Does she has a strong aesthetic…I don’t know.

Sabato is a competent designer but doesn’t have a POV or a strong aesthetic. We don’t even know his signature. His Gucci was about a color and a song.

The same can be said about Kim Jones. His work was about collabs.

Gabriella at Chloe was about sustainability. The discourse is never about fashion.

I mean, McQueen at Givenchy was a flop. Very talented, some good clothes, some fun shows but it never made sense. No vision or POV what so ever. It’s maybe an unpopular opinion but for me McQueen wasn’t a great CD. Genius designer yes but terrible CD.


What a good debut create is an impulse, a great energy that could only be substain through a strong creative vision.

Frida Gianni’s first good reviews came maybe with the FW2008 but her first real great success was SS2010. But in terms of Art Direction, it was always strong and coherent. Craig McDean and MAS elevated the Zara fashion through the visuals and the stores were glossier than laquer.

 

[oioioi]

Robert Huth is current head of MRTW at Givenchy.

The Mens Design Director is Sarah Burtons previous director from McQueen, Harley Hughes.

 

[Olaffo]

The Mens Design Director is Sarah Burtons previous director from McQueen, Harley Hughes.

Thank you for correcting me @oioioi 😇

 

[tourbillions]

It’s more mixed on TFS or social media.

I feel TFS was never a big fan of Burton. Or her fans here are not as vocal as her critiques. And in social media her debut got mostly positive reviews with surprisingly a few people missing williams. choices. They need to push the packaging of her products as something timeless and romantic. Instead of something cool and edgy.

 

[PDFSD]

I feel TFS was never a big fan of Burton. Or her fans here are not as vocal as her critiques. And in social media her debut got mostly positive reviews with surprisingly a few people missing williams. choices. They need to push the packaging of her products as something timeless and romantic. Instead of something cool and edgy.

i think and rightfully people have good will for her to succeed as on of the few woman appoints we had following so many male ones.

but critically its mid so far and too close to her version of Mc Queen mixed in Alaia etc like someone mentioned before

today press and online influencers have too much ties to x brands or groups and when they speak up it's the ones they are not friendly with or whatever.

i bet your top dollars that if she does not surpass her mid level output and it does not work out , the same press and social media supporters that applauded her will give all the explanations once its official she is replaced like Ancora that it was not enough etc ...

honestly she is just a step above Williams she know better how to cut and tailor sharp clothing and stick to her mood board with more conviction.

she will keep the lights on till the next hot available CD LVMH can snap up.

i honestly believe they took her to bridge these years and see her like a new MGC at Givenchy as Dior is going in a new direction closer to what they did with NG at LV bring new ideas and high fashion at top to fuel new innovation in core products and have new classics especially in acc