Schiaparelli F/W 2023.24 Paris

[Cocteau Stone]

Not a fan of this to be frank. Kinda corny.

I really want to hack off the sleeves on a lot of these looks to lighten the load. So many of them could have been so much better had there not been sleeves because there's a stuffiness to this that I can't shake off. The draped satin is great and I appreciate, but also really don't appreciate, the Alaïa-isms as well.

 

[Bernie Flood]

VOGUE.COM

You bet Schiaparelli will be the new Balmain.

 

[Bernie Flood]

I’m the first to call him out on his meddling offers but this time I’m very into it, maybe because it’s less gimmicky than his past lookbooks for the ready-to-wear. It does make an impression from the makeup, to the accessories and the setting…it’s unlike anything right now.

The simple draped black dress worn with that giant neckpiece is quite beautiful and is probably my favorite look. I also like the coats with Matisse (?) paper cutouts appliqués. The very 30s use of velvet for tailoring, fur trims and sculptural gathering is so much better than the faux-animal heads and crazy flower and gold ornaments that have populated his couture work. I frankly believe he’s improving.

Why can’t they just do an exclusive haute couture?

 

[LadyJunon]

Why can’t they just do an exclusive haute couture?

It's probably not self-sufficient enough.

 

[Lola701]

Why can’t they just do an exclusive haute couture?

They want to make money…Which is fair, and also establish Schiaparelli as a house that count. And you can’t count without a strong business.
HC is a very costly operation and even if Schiaparelli is doing well now, Diego Della Valle has invested a lot in that brand. It’s maybe time to finally take advantage of the momentum.

But they are doing exclusive RTW so far and the strategy seems good so far.

 

[Bernie Flood]

They want to make money…Which is fair, and also establish Schiaparelli as a house that count. And you can’t count without a strong business.
HC is a very costly operation and even if Schiaparelli is doing well now, Diego Della Valle has invested a lot in that brand. It’s maybe time to finally take advantage of the momentum.

But they are doing exclusive RTW so far and the strategy seems good so far.

Didn’t he also own Margiela?

 

[Lola701]

Didn’t he also own Margiela?

No. Diego Della Valle owns Tod’s, Roger Vivier, Hogan and Fay.

it’s Renzo Rosso who owns Margiela.

I may not be a fan of the recent creative director but the relaunch of Roger Vivier was flawless. If they manage to take the similar approach for Schiaparelli, it will be great.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

They want to make money…Which is fair, and also establish Schiaparelli as a house that count. And you can’t count without a strong business.
HC is a very costly operation and even if Schiaparelli is doing well now, Diego Della Valle has invested a lot in that brand. It’s maybe time to finally take advantage of the momentum.

But they are doing exclusive RTW so far and the strategy seems good so far.

Yes, to echo this, I doubt they were making any money with couture.

They need something to sell and I'm quite glad that it's not just some stupid perfume or sunglasses.