Schiaparelli Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Paris

[brandon J pierre]

Daniel is so handsome, I swear. Lemme go find this collection video.

🤣🤣🤣🤣 He is

 

[brandon J pierre]

Once again, I see a lot of other designers here...but little Elsa Schiaparelli. The presentation with the darkness is sophisticated, way more interesting than the collection.

@Kanzai I am very hard to please these days,because I have seen better collections decades ago. So I can say that the more that I see nowadays, the more bored I am.

Lots of other designers but he is working it. There are some really nice things I can see a customer wanting to re imagine. I wish he would work on a full wardrobe they way it should be done and not just a collection full of show pieces. He must understand that he has unlimited possibilities here. He should be pulling customers from Chanel as we speak but with this I'm not sure.

 

[jeanclaude]

Lots of other designers but he is working it. There are some really nice things I can see a customer wanting to re imagine. I wish he would work on a full wardrobe they way it should be done and not just a collection full of show pieces. He must understand that he has unlimited possibilities here. He should be pulling customers from Chanel as we speak but with this I'm not sure.

View attachment 1281927 View attachment 1281928

I don´t think he is able to do so. After several years at the helm of this brand, he keeps copying mainly from late 80s and early 90s designers. He is like Demna at Balenciaga: he is obsessed with Margiela, and he does not care about the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga at all.

 

[Ribs666]

Awar the star!!!

 

[brandon J pierre]

I don´t think he is able to do so. After several years at the helm of this brand, he keeps copying mainly from late 80s and early 90s designers. He is like Demna at Balenciaga: he is obsessed with Margiela, and he does not care about the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga at all.

That's such a shame and true Balenciaga work is so rich in history, so is schiaparelli ! But remember they have to sale it or make a show and the current ig climate it's hard to for designers to really explore which is sad. Just look around we are seeing more more designers stuck on the same path season after season, but this is no a down put for Daniel I like him

 

[AlbertNoir]

Love it, i just wish he could go back to use more colors as he did in hid first collections. the palette is getting boring, how many black and gold dresses the same client can buy?!

 

[jeanclaude]

That's such a shame and true Balenciaga work is so rich in history, so is schiaparelli ! But remember they have to sale it or make a show and the current ig climate it's hard to for designers to really explore which is sad. Just look around we are seeing more more designers stuck on the same path season after season, but this is no a down put for Daniel I like him

He could create a good collection. A collection with Elsa´s DNA; and a collection that could still get the attention of Instagram and the rest of media.

But for that he needs talent (aka a vision), like the 90% of designers nowadays. Copying from the past is the easy way out; creating something on your own is the real deal.

 

[brandon J pierre]

He could create a good collection. A collection with Elsa´s DNA; and a collection that could still get the attention of Instagram and the rest of media.

But for that he needs talent (aka a vision), like the 90% of designers nowadays. Copying from the past is the easy way out; creating something on your own is the real deal.

Agree but it seems to be harder then we think because the numbers of good designers going out of business is nuts. Now we see a Three year contract and never see them again, so Daniel is on a wave and he's going to milk it.

 

[lookatme]

These are very impressive from a technical point of view. I don’t know much about dressmaking but it seems to me that the work here is beautiful and intricate. However there is no variety in the level of intensity of this collection, every single look seems to aspire to be the most incredible look ever, which in the end maybe becomes too much, in spite of the obvious beauty of many of these looks.

This is actually a great point, and I think it’s something he needs to work on. When every look hits the same note of FIERCE, you kind of lose the impact and the eye loses interest.

As @Lola701 mentioned, the exaggerated shoulders are grating here - why not let those looks breathe with a fitted sleeve, for example? That would have made for a nicer build up to the more exaggerated looks - it could have provided visual relief and movement in the collection.

You think about the beauty of old McQueen shows…there was a real narrative of daywear, suiting, outerwear, dresses, evening, showpieces, etc.

I want to see a WARDROBE proposition from Daniel…because even his RTW is still very eleganzaaaaa.

 

[brandon J pierre]

This is actually a great point, and I think it’s something he needs to work on. When every look hits the same note of FIERCE, you kind of lose the impact and the eye loses interest.

As @Lola701 mentioned, the exaggerated shoulders are grating here - why not let those looks breathe with a fitted sleeve, for example? That would have made for a nicer build up to the more exaggerated looks - it could have provided visual relief and movement in the collection.

You think about the beauty of old McQueen shows…there was a real narrative of daywear, suiting, outerwear, dresses, evening, showpieces, etc.

I want to see a WARDROBE proposition from Daniel…because even his RTW is still very eleganzaaaaa.

Yes McQueen was so powerful because those show pieces really build up though out the show and then boom 💥 magic! His givenchy showed he could make a full wardrobe hats glove shoes everything. Now we see collections of show pieces for the red carpet which I hate (the red carpet) .

 

[AVC]

This collection was beautiful, I really enjoyed quite a few pieces. I find it odd that almost every single thread here on every single show is just filled with vitriol. I guess everything is sh*t and the world is ending by the way some of these miserable posts make it out to be.

 

[TianCouture]

the cornicello suit is so good. i think this is fabulous, don't care if it's naive or old fashioned. not everything has to be couture one way nor should it be.

 

[JohannesL]

Sources: vogue.com

Ideally, the modern day schiaparelli woman should have looked like...

 

[jeanclaude]

View attachment 1281995
Sources: vogue.com

Ideally, the modern day schiaparelli woman should have looked like...

Exactly! Prada (before Raf) was the ideal Schiaparelli template.

 

[jeanclaude]

This collection was beautiful, I really enjoyed quite a few pieces. I find it odd that almost every single thread here on every single show is just filled with vitriol. I guess everything is sh*t and the world is ending by the way some of these miserable posts make it out to be.

giphy.com

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Amazing craftsmanship and fun show. I imagine though some of these looks, even watered down to a more accessible and digestible RTW, would make the wearer appear positively frumpy and look dated. Case in point doja walking in front row looking like a Renee perle wannabe.

 

[signifier]

This thread contains some of the most obtuse criticism I've read since I joined this forum. If this doesn't satisfy you what will. This was a collection full of invention and craft. The salon style presentation is a reference to the era that he cites - in which clothes were shown in this format. You can dislike the clothes (but I think they're wonderful) if that's your conclusion. Daniel Roseberry is one of the few designers that push creativity to the limit of his available resources and without him the fashion industry would be a less interesting space. The fashion spot is a site in which armchair critics can voice their opinions, I get it. And it's fun to be critical. Especially when it's deserved (Chanel etc). But let's give credit where credit is due. It's hard to make wonderful things. That collection was filled with the world's best models showcasing incredible clothes. There are empty heads like Rousteing being widely celebrated but THiS is the designer people are tearing down. Makes no sense.

 

[THD96]

I like it. There is a determination to move forward beyond the golden cage / to on-the-nose surrealism from him.

There is more balance between intensity and modernity in this collection than in his previous ones. My favorite looks are on Karlie and look 24, they hit the right spot with enough amount of flair with still look quite modern.
Yes, I can do without the oversized shoulders. They look kinda out of proportion and make some garments look stiff. And I think it is time for Daniel to introduce more tailoring and daywear into his couture vocabulary.

Good job Daniel. It’s great to see his evolution as a designer each season.

 

[CholoChic]

I love the pringles dresses
out of the joke, there is hard couture work

 

[alwaysademo]

He could create a good collection. A collection with Elsa´s DNA; and a collection that could still get the attention of Instagram and the rest of media.

But for that he needs talent (aka a vision), like the 90% of designers nowadays. Copying from the past is the easy way out; creating something on your own is the real deal.

Just a thought: I feel like it's not fair to ask someone creative to be completely one and the same with another creative person. Aside from bearing the original name, she is not here. It's impossible for him to actually get to know her! He's a guy from Texas, she was European noblesse. They are nothing alike.
What you say I do get, but that's when extremely good fortune happens, it's the exception not the norm. And the demand for complete loyalty is stifling for creativity. A prime counter argument is John Galliano at Dior: let's not kid ourselves that we were all fawning over him because of his military reverence to the Dior's DNA. When a designer gets a job at a big house, that's a chance for that designer to make his/her mark. Are you not at least excited for the prospect of something new and of our time? Why do we have to make it so literal? Fashion history is just like fashion: utterly ephemeral and not a reliable source. We get fed a lot through the lens of fashion media and a lot of it is editorialized and crazy subjective/ often mindless. You see it especially clear now with social media, am I supposed to believe that everything is instantly legendary and iconic? There's no way we can really know the DNAs of Elsa Schiaparelli, 1) we weren't alive then 2) she was not well documented as a creative figure.

The excitement around this brand on IG and the amount of celebrities who look tacky in his garments might be the main reason that turns you off. I don't follow this house obsessively, but as someone who's close to a few daring and well-dressed women, I know taste is a matter of self understanding. If you have cultivated taste the garments often work for you. Farida Khelfa and Natalia Vodianova have been seen in his Schiaparelli a few times and both managed to look quite discreet. I also have seen many a client butchered their Chanel Couture to the point of tastelessness. 2 sides of the same coin.

P/S: have a hunch you already know @jeanclaude about Michael Stewart, but if not you should check him out. His work has a strong Cristobal oeuvre from what I've seen.