Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2022 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[KoV]

Somehow this is both exactly what I expected to see and also feels creative and original. Love the occult-ish vibe. Beautiful. Nearly every look is a glamorous showstopper.

 

[Lola701]

I see Mugler, I see Gaultier, I see Lacroix,I see Cardin and I even see Tom Ford for Gucci spring 2001.

While I can appreciate the craftsmanship, I’m not moved by it. I wish his interpretation of Schiaparelli had more to do with her work than others designers’s interpretation of her work.

My favorite look is the Gucci SS2001 dress because it’s subtle.

 

[JohannesL]

I think the quirkiness of Schiaparelli is more subtle than his superficial take on this brand, and as usual this collection can easily blend with Mugler and Gaultier if we strip off those decorative elements.

 

[Salvatore]

I was looking forward to this and I am disappointed in the limited vision on display here in comparison to his two previous haute couture collections. Firstly, the colour palette could have been more expanded as oppose to the black, white, and gold. Secondly, some of the looks, while creative, feel just short of being full realised. That dress on Mariacarla could have been pushed further as I just see gold strips hanging. Thirdly, it felt all over the place in concept. Maybe presentations are better for him.

 

[zei]

I was looking forward to this and I am disappointed in the limited vision on display here in comparison to his two previous haute couture collections. Firstly, the colour palette could have been more expanded as oppose to the black, white, and gold. Secondly, some of the looks, while creative, feel just short of being full realised. That dress on Mariacarla could have been pushed further as I just see gold strips hanging. Thirdly, it felt all over the place in concept. Maybe presentations are better for him.

So true. It feels like they built some outfits just to fulfill the collection without any more work and vision :/ Love the occult and satanic appearances but that is all I guess.

 

[Norden]

He’s one of these designers that can produce a really strong image. I thought his shows worked exceptionally well with pre made videos. Here in context of a fashion show it looses energy.

I don’t mind the theater and gold, it’s very clear and presents a strong direction, but it needs more. In a sea of showstoppers you also want to see a translation to a fun wearable proposition. What lacks here is not the creative outfits but a clear vision of who wears it and what she’s like. There’s no connection to culture.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I’ll echo the sentiments here that there really should be more attention paid to creating something beautiful and flattering and realistic in some way. There’s hints of it, but it’s never quite there. Like the opening jackets…why couldn’t they have actually been jackets that fit in a seductive way. I’m getting a bit tired of oversized being every designer’s crutch.

Furthermore, it’s clear he’s starting to rely far too much on the cast gold. There is something to be said of the subtle difference between a signature and a habit.

And I agree with @Lola701 that he could focus a bit more on actual Schiaparelli instead of those inspired by her. There really is a lot of Mugler and Gaultier here. I think my favorite piece is probably the Apollo chariot embroidered piece - directly lifted from the archives and it looks gorgeous.

I will give him credit, though, that his collections have come light years from his first several for the house, and that these clothes legitimately look Haute Couture. The craftsmanship is really excellent and clean. You can tell his atelier is engaged and focused and inspired. Good for him on that mark.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

How he put out farewell Mugler looks so fast

 

[LadyJunon]

While this is a good collection and I feel that Daniel is a good CD for Schiaparelli, his stuff is too dependant on Mugler and Gaultier more outlandish, gaudy designs. Maybe, it's beause the age of the insta-baddie requires those types of styles, but it does start feeling too estranged from a realistic clientele, which is, judging by the early 2010's, is a very bad sign. I feel that a bit of restraint would do him very well.

 

[avonlea002]

I don't see Mugler. I see something Olivier R would do for his couture sh*t show.

 

[WAVES]

it’s a feast for the eyes and it’s impeccably executed so kudos to that.
the colour palette being so strict made it less strong IMO

I did love some of the details and I agree with @dior_couture1245 that as a whole it all exudes Haute Couture. Amen!

 

[perhydrol]

It's a good collection, what is quite unbelievable from the perspective of his first few collections, but I feel like this one doesn't have the same power as his previous one. I don't know, in my opinion it's too toned down and sober and that's why all the effects are not as striking as they were meant to be. I don't know, but he's still on the right path to make Schiaparelli relevant. That's also surprising considering all the struggles the maison had gone through.

 

[brandon J pierre]

NOT SURE ABOUT THIS! LOTS OF OTHER DESINGER IN THIS SHOW, AND WHATS HIS IS NOT GREAT , FUN THO, BUT WHEN YOU TAKE ALL THE GOLD decorative elements OFF WHAT DO U HAVE ? NOT MUCH,

 

[jeanclaude]

A strange mixture between 80s couture and "Le Cirque du Soleil" wardrobe leftovers.
The golden metal pieces look like a heavy chandelier fell over the poor models...

 

[Bernie Flood]

I think he’s trying to be Alexander McQueen

 

[vogue28]

A rather spectacular collection, full of exciting show-stopping elements, and every single look is just screaming out to be worn by someone who wants an iconic or buzz-worthy red carpet moment. Drama and pure fashion. What more can we ask from a Schiaparelli couture collection?

 

[thismortalcoil]

I’m getting really sick and tired of the Claude Lalanne inspiration. I’d like him to delve deeper into the houses own incredible archives without having to copy another designer’s work and have it pass for his own ingenuity - but unfortunately that’s the state of fashion today. Cut, copy, paste.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I’m getting really sick and tired of the Claude Lalanne inspiration. I’d like him to delve deeper into the houses own incredible archives without having to copy another designer’s work and have it pass for his own ingenuity - but unfortunately that’s the state of fashion today. Cut, copy, paste.

Thank you for the Claude reference. I knew all this Schiaparelli cast gold jewelry felt familiar.

Too familiar.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I really have to say…I’m kind of perturbed by his Claude Lalanne knock-offs.

Listen - I’m not one who has a huge issue with designers referencing or slipping in homages to their collections…it’s part of the process and it’s also sometimes very charming when a designer slips in a sort of fashion Easter egg. Phoebe’s Geoffrey Beene knotted sweater comes to mind…

But here, we’ve got Daniel Lee creating an entire house signature, in fact THE house signature, of his tenure that is a complete and total rip off of Claude Lalanne’s work.

WTF is that all about?