Schiaparelli Haute Couture S/S 2024 Paris

[fenty]

I think this is his weakest collection, but there are some gems (Hana's motherboard dress being Ghesquière inspired was everything to me!!). I personally don't think he uses gimmicks all the time but we interpret things differently

 

[Salvatore]

I, for one, actually love the crystal computer alien baby more than I love the collection. It's very Daft Punkian.

The collection doesn't move me. I look at some pieces and wonder why things were done that way. I love that high-neck black velvet dress and Ghesquière-for-Balenciaga like dress on Hana as well as that sculpture creme lace look, but the rest is a bit meh.

It makes me wonder ... on a whole, why isn't fashion hitting like it used to ?

 

[Lola701]

It makes me wonder ... on a whole, why isn't fashion hitting like it used to ?

Maybe because we don’t have Couturiers anymore doing Couture.
Let’s be honest, since Karl’s death the only two I was looking forward to were Armani, Alexandre Vauthier and in some ways, Ralph Rucci and maybe Galliano.
Few people are willing to challenge the status quo, to think about shapes and techniques, to contextualize Couture in today’s world beyond the redcarpet and the desire to sell.

The people who thinks fashion, like Nicolas Ghesquiere are in RTW. Someone like Riccardo is missed!

When you look at Armani and Ralph Rucci, it’s so much more than a beautiful dress in a beautiful fabric. Every season, we see the quality of Armani’s satin and velvet. Clearly there’s a geek level of quality in fabrics development there.

When I want to have a dose of dream and fun, I watch a Chanel show by Karl. It’s fabulous!

The other day, I watched Galliano’s fall 1999 Couture show. More than 20 years have passed but it’s still mezmerising in terms of techniques but also in the way that he thought about Couture. Next to that collection you had Karl’s Fall 1999 Couture for Chanel. Those clothes weren’t for the redcarpet or a viral moment. It was a thought process about pushing fashion and the perception of Couture forward.

Gaultier did it, Lee did it, Riccardo did it.

Today is about hours of work. We don’t care about that. We hope those workers were paid accordingly but a boring dress or a stunt that feels flat won’t be superb because it took 700hrs to make.

 

[Maayan]

These three looks are totally Mugler to me - FW 1990, HC SS 1997 and HC SS 1998

 

[MagFan]

Was this Guin's debut at Couture shows? So random

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Few people are willing to challenge the status quo, to think about shapes and techniques, to contextualize Couture in today’s world beyond the redcarpet and the desire to sell.

Also it's few people willing to challenge the craft of making clothes (also due to the fact that people funding it have no interest either). I guess it's kinda trying to fit in for the spectacle that the old big personalities brought, but it will never stand to be a peer because it doesn't have anything to do with actually "haute couture". It's pretty clear Daniel Roseberry has never tried taking a sewing class himself or even wondered about how a blazer is made. People like Gaultier, Galliano, Rucci etc can start to finish understand what goes into making a jacket, understand how one fabric hangs over another, what the effects cutting has on a silhouette, wonder about what's going on in the culture lol, ask basic questions. Galliano's couture took the very basic ideas of sewing and pushed them to their absolute limits beyond belief by jumping off from the pillar of EVERYTHING he's ever learned before to bring them into the future. Daniel Roseberry looks at an already made jacket or pant and goes hmm what if we made this area longer or blown up and added a bunch of sparkles and knickknacks to it. Oh yes darling this is gonna make them go ooo and aww. Just look at how much time and energy it took to create this mawma! It's so base level ADHD drag race creativity. No comment on how clothes are made. No comment on how clothes are worn or the spaces they're worn in. No comment on beauty, culture, history, or the future. Just slack jawed mouth drooling looking at the cell phone.

 

[LadyJunon]

Maybe because we don’t have Couturiers anymore doing Couture.
Let’s be honest, since Karl’s death the only two I was looking forward to were Armani, Alexandre Vauthier and in some ways, Ralph Rucci and maybe Galliano.
Few people are willing to challenge the status quo, to think about shapes and techniques, to contextualize Couture in today’s world beyond the redcarpet and the desire to sell.

The people who thinks fashion, like Nicolas Ghesquiere are in RTW. Someone like Riccardo is missed!

When you look at Armani and Ralph Rucci, it’s so much more than a beautiful dress in a beautiful fabric. Every season, we see the quality of Armani’s satin and velvet. Clearly there’s a geek level of quality in fabrics development there.

When I want to have a dose of dream and fun, I watch a Chanel show by Karl. It’s fabulous!

The other day, I watched Galliano’s fall 1999 Couture show. More than 20 years have passed but it’s still mezmerising in terms of techniques but also in the way that he thought about Couture. Next to that collection you had Karl’s Fall 1999 Couture for Chanel. Those clothes weren’t for the redcarpet or a viral moment. It was a thought process about pushing fashion and the perception of Couture forward.

Gaultier did it, Lee did it, Riccardo did it.

Today is about hours of work. We don’t care about that. We hope those workers were paid accordingly but a boring dress or a stunt that feels flat won’t be superb because it took 700hrs to make.

I really have an appreciation for Vauthier. His vision has obviously stemmed from 70s/80s Haute Couture, but it still has it's own tridimensionality. So many of the newer couturiers are so deeply rooted in parodying their predecessors.

 

[gallianostan]

Also it's few people willing to challenge the craft of making clothes (also due to the fact that people funding it have no interest either). I guess it's kinda trying to fit in for the spectacle that the old big personalities brought, but it will never stand to be a peer because it doesn't have anything to do with actually "haute couture". It's pretty clear Daniel Roseberry has never tried taking a sewing class himself or even wondered about how a blazer is made. People like Gaultier, Galliano, Rucci etc can start to finish understand what goes into making a jacket, understand how one fabric hangs over another, what the effects cutting has on a silhouette, wonder about what's going on in the culture lol, ask basic questions. Galliano's couture took the very basic ideas of sewing and pushed them to their absolute limits beyond belief by jumping off from the pillar of EVERYTHING he's ever learned before to bring them into the future. Daniel Roseberry looks at an already made jacket or pant and goes hmm what if we made this area longer or blown up and added a bunch of sparkles and knickknacks to it. Oh yes darling this is gonna make them go ooo and aww. Just look at how much time and energy it took to create this mawma! It's so base level ADHD drag race creativity. No comment on how clothes are made. No comment on how clothes are worn or the spaces they're worn in. No comment on beauty, culture, history, or the future. Just slack jawed mouth drooling looking at the cell phone.

another one for the louvre

 

[GoldenPetals]

It's pretentious and silly through and through, and not in a fun self-aware Mugler kinda way. But I cannot overstate how important it is that there IS someone doing this kinda design.

The spectacle helps keep fashion larger-than-life.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

He had a really strong moment for a year or so, but now it’s getting a little bit tiresome. If he were to expand his color palette, that would make a big difference. He can’t continue to produce only black, white, and gold. The archive are rich in color. He needs to confront whatever fear he has towards color because the house dna isn’t solely black and white.

 

[GoldenPetals]

I can't wait to see that circuit dress (and that bizarre CIRCUIT BABY) on some dumb*** celebrity for the MET Gala.

 

[Lola701]

I really have an appreciation for Vauthier. His vision has obviously stemmed from 70s/80s Haute Couture, but it still has it's own tridimensionality. So many of the newer couturiers are so deeply rooted in parodying their predecessors.

What I love about Vauthier is his attitude towards Couture that challenges the status quo.
Coming from Gaultier Couture and Mugler Couture, he knows and understand everything about Couture.
However, he brings that very casual allure for Couture without compromising on the cut and techniques. And incredible fabrics also coming from him…
Yes, it’s very Jet Set and Hollywood but he is bringing another POV.

Chanel and Dior HC brings you what? A number of hours…
I’m tired of reading and hearing about hours an item took to make. The hours needs to match the results! If an atelier is spending 2000 hours on a column dress to embroider, I don’t want to see your regular black jersey embroidered dress that could have been made by anybody.

 

[tourbillions]

yeap we need tisci back in couture week.. im sure he can push out atleast 10 looks in between making hi insta pics in cancun or ibiza 2x a year. think i saw that he made costumes for theater which looked more couture than what weve been seeing.

 

[TerraVera]

it kind of feels like he's running out of steam. i thought of a little viktor & rolf, and yes balmain in this collection. his earlier work was much more strident and vibrant. with this and the last season, it's feels like he's winding down, like when a jack-in-the-box needs more cranking to really surprise someone - he needs an injection of more energy to really give this placid aesthetic some vivre, something to make it feel more concomitant to the brand.

there's too much reliance on the mood/inspo board to the point of issuing derivatives, when he has the capability to produce something more chic, rich, and perhaps luxe. the is daniel stripped bare: it's not enough; he's limited in what he can do, what he can imagine. the runway is a clown show, a parade of jesters coming to court, except they're not funny, intriguing, provoking, or entertaining. just a sad and drab collection.

the downturn reminds me of fendi and balenciaga couture when they lost the plot. daniel is about to lose, if not forget the plot.

 

[Tchi]

I like this more "wearable" take on Roseberry's Schiaparelli, but I'm more excited to see the forum trash the collection.

Wearable?

 

[CommanderTMugler]

He always has a gimmick or two in his shows, so it’s expected. Either the animal faces, the painted dress, now this motherboard and baby. Meh…

I lIke seeing him work with other fabrics, he should do it more often, the latex, lace and leather pieces are stand outs as well as the silhouette on Natasha.

 

[Carla55]

He had a really strong moment for a year or so, but now it’s getting a little bit tiresome. If he were to expand his color palette, that would make a big difference. He can’t continue to produce only black, white, and gold. The archive are rich in color. He needs to confront whatever fear he has towards color because the house dna isn’t solely black and white.

I really don’t understand why he’s stuck with this “no color” palette because if you watch at his first collections they were full of beautiful and rich colours. It’s not like Vaccarello who’s always been black, black and black only …

 

[lookatme]

Hmmm….

I always WANT to like Daniel’s Schiaparelli Couture more than I actually do.

I really like his earnestness and his passion. I think it shows. You can tell he wants badly to make something remarkable. I can appreciate the effort and the desire. He’s not a pessimistic and jaded designer.

But I also think he needs to reign things in AND simultaneously let things go!

His atelier is extremely capable and putting out some of the best looking work I’ve seen on the Couture runway in a while. But I would love to see most of these silhouettes reduced to something more practical and alluring. Give us fantasy, but give us an idea of how a woman could dress. I’m not saying give us streetwear - but as Lola has articulated, give us a possibility! Even in some of Galliano’s most over the top Dior collections, he gave you a flicker of an idea of a new style. A new proposition that could be distilled and inspire a woman to dress in a different way.

That’s the one end of reigning things in. On the other hand, he needs to loosen up! Give us some color! Give us a little freedom and fun! Not calculated fun, but actual fun! His work is very tightly wound up.

Daniel’s work only has potential for life on the runway or red carpet. He still hasn’t figured out who the Schiaparelli woman actually IS.

 

[disco54]

Hideous! Its making my skin crawl

 

[Kanzai]

another one for the louvre

Nah, Place Vendôme. Where the headquarter of Schiaparelli is