Schiaparelli S/S 2025 Paris

Probably the first offering of his that’s tolerably interesting, even impressive in some places. It’s still too deeply seeped in the vocabulary and template of 80s couture caricature, but it looks and feels less burdened, less of a fashion parody, and thankfully, finally free of design gimmicks and styling tricks this time. It’s the brand of aesthetic Olivier Rousteing has been attempting to conjure for his Balmain had he possessed this level of craftsmanship, and talent— instead of just loving fashion. It's a creative growth on Daniel’s part, and that’s such a rare trait in designers these days. The simpler and still opulent designs are the best:



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all those skin tight, ribbed corset, and denim looks are serving Mugler realness.

it's either gimmick or derivation with this guy
 
nice , for that women so wants something special in her wardrobe. Special items for different women, anyone know what the prices look like over there.
 
He can't design ready to wear. At least rtw that is not for a very special occasion.
But I guess that’s the point of his ready-to-wear, right? To introduce people to the real deal, which is the couture house.
 
You can see Daniel creating departure from RTW to Couture. This was an unexpected but refreshing shift. The blue backdrop I did not expected, but I think the revival of Schiapparelli and its relatively more unknown history allows us to see it with fresh eyes. And Daniel is so smart about things, so creative with how he's defining the Schiapparelli woman; it's genius.

Great collection, he continues to evolve the vocabulary of the house.
This is an excellent start to more fully allowing RTW to have a pronounced and individualized space, separate from couture.
 
Just looking at the photos now I see a Diesel influence, and that seems to have worked wonders as a refresher. I see Mugler too ofc but Glenn Martens seems like the most current reference. It works for me, somehow brings everything to a sharper focus.
 

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