Stefano Pilati - Designer

[jeanclaude]

I AM big, it’s the fashion houses that got small!

6 posts on his IG...and only in one he does not appear:

 

[blueorchid]

What really makes me think he's out of the running for Chanel (lol... like he was ever in consideration) is the midlife-crisis forehead tattoo. I just can't see someone with a forehead tattoo being Chane's creative designer. I just can't!!! Gucci? Sure. Fendi? Fine. But CHANEL? :


gettyimages

 

[JohannesL]

I come to the conclusion that YSL designers from Yves himself to Tom Ford to Pilati all loved doing nude shoots!

 

[Creative]

What really makes me think he's out of the running for Chanel (lol... like he was ever in consideration) is the midlife-crisis forehead tattoo. I just can't see someone with a forehead tattoo being Chane's creative designer. I just can't!!! Gucci? Sure. Fendi? Fine. But CHANEL? :


gettyimages

omggggg, when did he do that?!

I hate tattoos so much 😭

I actually don’t think Stefano has enough repertoire for a house like Chanel. He ran out of ideas in 2008.

Anyways, I think I will always have a soft spot for him. Even if he is in his midlife crisis and desperate for attention, he still is for me one of the “big” ones, IDK. What he does can be very chic in a a way that very few people can do. Intellectual without being pretentious.

I feel that the industry never really appreacited him and that’s why he has this “love me please” attitude. Kering, Anna Wintour… I think his talent was never recognized as it should. But at the same time, Anna loved Altuzarra and Wang, and Kering hired Saturday of Sarno, why should he care?

It’s true his last years at Sanlogan were a sh!t, but still…

 

[Lola701]

omggggg, when did he do that?!

I hate tattoos so much 😭

I actually don’t think Stefano has enough repertoire for a house like Chanel. He ran out of ideas in 2008.

Anyways, I think I will always have a soft spot for him. Even if he is in his midlife crisis and desperate for attention, he still is for me one of the “big” ones, IDK. What he does can be very chic in a a way that very few people can do. Intellectual without being pretentious.

I feel that the industry never really appreacited him and that’s why he has this “love me please” attitude. Kering, Anna Wintour… I think his talent was never recognized as it should. But at the same time, Anna loved Altuzarra and Wang, and Kering hired Saturday of Sarno, why should he care?

It’s true his last years at Sanlogan were a sh!t, but still…

Anna never loved him? That’s news to me….

 

[Phuel]

In my head, he belongs to Armani because it’s the closest house to his spirit as a fashion designer. He is a fabrics geek and judging by the quality of Armani’s fabrics, he would actually have a blast there.

Current-day awkwardly proportioned, matronly, clownish Armani in an infant's color-palette of pink/blue/purple and 80s-wallpaper prints x current-day Pilati’s Random Identities equals the messiest fashion vomit. What an unholy fashion spawn that would be.

(…However, lush, plush and fluid 90s-Armani in all his desert-palette x Pilati’s YSL x Agnona. Fashion seventh heaven.)

 

[tricotineacetat]

Current-day awkwardly proportioned, matronly, clownish Armani in an infant's color-palette of pink/blue/purple and 80s-wallpaper prints x current-day Pilati’s Random Identities equals the messiest fashion vomit. What an unholy fashion spawn that would be.

(…However, lush, plush and fluid 90s-Armani in all his desert-palette x Pilati’s YSL x Agnona. Fashion seventh heaven.)

Isn’t there already Lemaire for that? The only thing that’s presently missing at Lemaire are more formal propositions, other than that, I think he’s already doing what a Pilati-at-Armani collection would ideally look like…

 

[lookatme]

Poor Stefano.

His first three years at YSL are really spectacular. To this day, those are some of my favorite shows ever. I absolutely loved those erotic bourgeois collections. When he moved into the more minimal, "intellectual" collections starting around 2009, I really lost interest in what he was doing. The clothes themselves were still "good," but it felt like he was actively denying and resisting any romance, play or charm in his work - and it suffered the more for it.

Anyway, it's fun getting little anecdotes from those collection on his Instagram now...and a reminder of how handsome he was! The face tattoo is abysmal. Berlin has done him no favors. Tragic!

 

[Creative]

Anna never loved him? That’s news to me….

That’s what I heard, but not 100% sure. I also remember a documentary and Anna was a little bit rude to him, which she never is with her loved ones 🫣 You could also see Stefano super uncomfortable and nervous under her presence.

 

[MagFan]

He was part of such eds many times. She would never promote someone she doesnt like like that
US Vogue Sept 2005

...
Scanned by cottonmouth13

 

[Lola701]

That’s what I heard, but not 100% sure. I also remember a documentary and Anna was a little bit rude to him, which she never is with her loved ones 🫣 You could also see Stefano super uncomfortable and nervous under her presence.

She wore his clothes, she supported him in her magazine at a time when Pierre Bergé started to use his power of nuisance. He was invited to the Met even when he was out of YSL…
She wasn’t a fan of the previews of the collection because there wasn’t color…Ok.
I bet she wasn’t a fan of John Galliano’s FW2006 collection for Dior.

The rules of Anna have always been quite clear. She doesn’t like you, you don’t exist. And she knew Stefano. He was Tom’s number 2 after all and he had a great deal of confidence.

What that scene in the documentary showed me was that Stefano could act almost like a child with someone he is trying his hardest to please. He didn’t act that way next to Carine for example…

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

I'll never forget coming across the Vogue September 2005 issue and falling in love with that editorial one of the best seasons of the 2000's!

I've always dreamed of seeing Stefano at the helm of another house like YSL, he really knew how to construct and design a garment (I have a few of the bustled jackets from his first collection and they're impeccable).

 

[pradn]

Also, he was featured in Vogue US March 2008

designscene

I also remember a documentary and Anna was a little bit rude to him, which she never is with her loved ones 🫣 You could also see Stefano super uncomfortable and nervous under her presence.

Is it The September Issue?

 

[tricotineacetat]

When exactly did Pilati work for Prada / Miu Miu and in which position? I really enjoyed both collections around 2001 - 2005 and still think of this time as some of their best, thinking that it had a great deal in common with his style.

 

[bc collector]

When exactly did Pilati work for Prada / Miu Miu and in which position?

He started doing fabric research for Prada around 1995, then three years later Miuccia promoted him to Miu Miu, where he designed both men's and women's collections, up until 2000, when he moved to YSL.
Rumour has it that he fell out of grace with the Prada clan because they supported him so much as to pay for his rehab, due to his heavy drugs use. Only to be thanked by him jumping ship to assist Tom Ford in Paris.

 

[Lola701]

He started doing fabric research for Prada around 1995, then three years later Miuccia promoted him to Miu Miu, where he designed both men's and women's collections, up until 2000, when he moved to YSL.
Rumour has it that he fell out of grace with the Prada clan because they supported him so much as to pay for his rehab, due to his heavy drugs use. Only to be thanked by him jumping ship to assist Tom Ford in Paris.

Im not sure the Milanese nightlife was that exciting for him because, in Paris, I think the walls of Le Montana and Le Baron remembers him and his friends Olivier Zahm and Andre.
I don’t know if what the Prada paid for was useful but he was functioning and rather responsible while being a heavy party-goer.

So much of his fake intellectualism persona when he could have fun, and expressed more fun in his fashion (in the latter years).

 

[bc collector]

Im not sure the Milanese nightlife was that exciting for him

I'm not sure someone's drug use has necessarily to do with the quality of nightlife though. He was very candid about it in an old interview on Fantastic Man, where he also posed for the cover: he started working at 17, without even finishing high school, and his family background, if memory serves me well, sounded a bit shaky. Whatever the reason, he ended up shooting heavily, hence the rehab, which probably at that point WAS interfering with his professional performance.

 

[Creative]

I just can’t get over people over 23 wanting to party like crazy 💀 huge prejudice of mine.

I think all of this Instagram frenzy also has to do with the fact that almost everybody from his generation has been successful after their jobs in the 00s: Phoebe, Nicolas, Tom Ford, Hedi… and his name doesn’t pop up anywhere.

It’s true his recent work is extremely irrelevant and I don’t know if he can work in fashion in 2024. What he did for Fendi was terrible and had 0 hype. His last years at SL were a total bore. Agnona was meh. Idk.

I think if Anna liked him he would’ve be kind of somewhere. He was really big in the 00s… there’s been a huge amount of vacancies… I don’t know.

I wonder what KL thought of Pilati.

 

[Kite]

Hes doing a collab with a High Street Retailer.

 

[helmutnotdead]

haha yes. marta ortega is not playing around.