Tom Ford Resort 2025 Milan

[tourbillions]

I see a lot of Balenciaga 2005 2006

way to ruin an otherwise decent collection. with just 1 comparison

 

[tricotineacetat]

We've endured Anthony Vaccarello's hideous womenswear label for long enough when he emerged on the scene and I'm not sure he really ever showed a breakthrough collection until today that really confirmed an exceptional potential within him... not in the way most designers with promise and unique vision did. Designers like Riccardo Tisci or Haider Ackermann would come to mind.

What I am trying to say is that Peter Hawking deserves time to get into his shoes. He has until today shown three collections and while so far the huge directional message might be missing, he succeeded to confirm the polish and refinement that always balanced the vulgarity Tom Ford used to play with. He has a great eye for cut and the product he delivers looks desirable and timeless, that to me matters more than delivering just a daring show by baring the most unseen amount of hip bone or other of Vacarello's gestures that defined the beginning of his career - In the time since, he took a little bit here and there from the likes of other designers, from Isabel Marant to Tom Ford all the way through to using the established Hedi Slimane tailoring bases for Saint Laurent to come up with collections that praise the creation of image and not actual clothing design that informs anything. In fact, his vision is completely hollow, as good as the copyists from Zara or the likes.

 

[LadyJunon]

We've endured Anthony Vaccarello's hideous womenswear label for long enough when he emerged on the scene and I'm not sure he really ever showed a breakthrough collection until today that really confirmed an exceptional potential within him... not in the way most designers with promise and unique vision did. Designers like Riccardo Tisci or Haider Ackermann would come to mind.

What I am trying to say is that Peter Hawking deserves time to get into his shoes. He has until today shown three collections and while so far the huge directional message might be missing, he succeeded to confirm the polish and refinement that always balanced the vulgarity Tom Ford used to play with. He has a great eye for cut and the product he delivers looks desirable and timeless, that to me matters more than delivering just a daring show by baring the most unseen amount of hip bone or other of Vacarello's gestures that defined the beginning of his career - In the time since, he took a little bit here and there from the likes of other designers, from Isabel Marant to Tom Ford all the way through to using the established Hedi Slimane tailoring bases for Saint Laurent to come up with collections that praise the creation of image and not actual clothing design that informs anything. In fact, his vision is completely hollow, as good as the copyists from Zara or the likes.

Funny enough, Tom Ford (the man) seems to be a fan of Vacarello's YSL. He praised him in an interview and wore his design to the MET Gala. I wouldn't be surprised at all if Ford wants him to helm TF. That said, I absolutely agree with your statement. As much as I love Saint Laurent under Vacarello, it's really just excellent visuals elevating really generic clothes to high fashion.

Peter's TF isn't aggressive curated as YSL, but it's extremely strong in terms of actually delivering the sort of clothing YSL tries to offer. The clothes are very modern, refined and chic with a undercurrent of Italian sensuality. His collections have been positively received by stockists and they should be a hit amongst high-paying luxury customers too, something that the brand needs right now.

It's very easy to forget that the brand is in a very peculiar situation for its age. TF is only 19 years old, hasn't turned a profit in 5 years and is dealing with major changes in leadership. It usually takes a luxury brand around 30 years to create enough material to allow corporate to depend on a "heritage brand" status, with most brands taking an extra 10 to 20 years to pull it off correctly. Making the brand stable and profitable should be a the top priority for Zegna. Adding the daring sexual edge can come later in due time.

 

[brandon J pierre]

It's hot and he keep the Tom Ford women at the top of the hot girls game he's a great cutter as well I love it

 

[PDFSD]

It's hot and he keep the Tom Ford women at the top of the hot girls game he's a great cutter as well I love it

TF woman i would say...... i don't see Hot girls wear it or glamour after it .....they are into Alaia or Miu Miu &co mix sexy and more cute easy or classy the row uniqlo vibes lol

 

[philophile]

This collection is so safe, it's just boring and derivative. There's a lot of quality to all of it, especially the images, but it fails to give you that je ne sais quoi, that quirky twist that fashion used to give you just a few years back. It's a safe collection, because we are living in a time of economic crisis for the average Joe, people want things simpler and more timeless. Dear God, how I miss excitement in fashion.

 

[george5]

I don't really get the complaints because this is a much better take on Tom's codes compared to what Tom himself did since... 2014/2015?. It's nicely edited, straight to the point and ready for customers; no need for over the top retro diva throwback.

 

[Lola701]

TF woman i would say...... i don't see Hot girls wear it or glamour after it .....they are into Alaia or Miu Miu &co mix sexy and more cute easy or classy the row uniqlo vibes lol

Exactly! I see a lot of Alaia around. I don’t like Pieter’s work and while I bought an Alaia dress recently, it was a version of Azzedine’s classic silhouette.
But I know a lot of women who loves Alaia. Why? Because there’s a feeling of fashion!

I’m willing to be a Tom Ford by Hawkings customer because I love Tom Ford. I bought under Tom and so it’s natural for me to gravitate towards this.

But, without the fashion intention, doing safe sexy clothes may not be enough, even more with the questionable accessories.

YSL by Vaccarello appeals to so many women because there’s a feeling of HF!

I would probably wear a lot of this, with better shoes of course but then, I don’t consider my style sexy…

 

[THD96]

The styling, the lookbook are giving me Zara Studio. It's not bad, it just there.

Peter is playing it safe for the EL paycheck, the brand may make profit now, but in the long run TF the name will lost it spark. That's why world building vision is really important when you take over a brand. Delivered well made essential with TF name just won't make the cut.

He has the skills, now he needs to be more creative and willing to make more mistakes. Remember this is Tom Ford, the man never shy away from bad taste.

 

[Phuel]

I’m convinced Tom is after some Kering investment for his film production and/or need to associate with Anthony for clout. Because Tom’s standards are immensely more demanding than Anthony’s admittedly impressive branding for what is ultimately midrange reductive designs and even more meager, mediocre design talent. This guy just lucked out by stumbling onto Yves’ campaign archives just recently and most importantly for the brand, resurrecting the iconic YSL logo, when before, he was blatantly scrambling for Hedi’s scraps from 3 years ago. No amount of Kering money, high-production value and strong branding will eve disguise that he’s such a basic b!tch.

Peter on the other hand, is producing investment-worthy bespoke separates that will last beyond the fickle smear of a fashion minute— more so in these lesser fashion days when once fabled brands are led by amateur clowns that rely on tricksy, gimmicky signatures hustling outlet offerings to 12yos. Not everything works here, and he’s a more confident, capable and convincing men’s designer than he is a women’s designer. But what works, really works: The suitings, the chiffon and jewel-embellished shifts, and the leathers are good. Better than anything Anthony’s capable of ever conjuring.

It’s just so frustrating that his presentation continues to cheapen the actual product LMFAO The casting of waifs/twinks playing dressup in their parents’ closets; the painfully dated styling and art direction that belongs in Tyra’s ANTM sensibility; the cheap AF accessories— heinous eyewear, and even worse footwear, drag the solid separates dirt down to budget aesthetic. He doesn’t seem to remember that the Tom Ford customer is an adult woman and not a girl; and even more, she’s not a pubescent wallflower, but a woman who’s not afraid to be/dress masculine as well. Unless he’s answering to corporate, it’s beyond frustrating how he’s floundering so witlessly, so cluelessly, so cheaply, when the Tom Ford archive is available to him, all access. (...Maybe that’s why Tom is such a mean girl to him-- and supporting that lesser… I’d probably do the same out of sheer frustration just to spite Peter LOL)

 

[Kanzai]

OMG you're back !!! the Tom Ford thread will never be a TF thread without @Phuel commenting...

 

[Phuel]

^^^ No one could ever keep up with Lola when it comes to Tom LOL

(@THD96 :The Tom Ford label doesn’t need to be an edgy, leading, barrier-breaking fashion vision because that’s not who Peter is—nor was it even when Tom lead it. It’s not Tom Ford’s Gucci.

Peter just needs to remember to improve and elevate his strengths: Tailoring and luxury in its most unapologetic decadence. Adding inventive design flourishes from collection to collection is what will keep the label refreshed— not outlandish risks that propose nothing for the Tom Ford customer. But he is in desperate need of a new accessories and footwear team ASAP. … And new stylists… And new CD and AD. …And a new casting director.)

 

[LadyJunon]

^^^ No one could ever keep up with Lola when it comes to Tom LOL

(@THD96 :The Tom Ford label doesn’t need to be an edgy, leading, barrier-breaking fashion vision because that’s not who Peter is—nor was it even when Tom lead it. It’s not Tom Ford’s Gucci.

Peter just needs to remember to improve and elevate his strengths: Tailoring and luxury in its most unapologetic decadence. Adding inventive design flourishes from collection to collection is what will keep the label refreshed— not outlandish risks that propose nothing for the Tom Ford customer. But he is in desperate need of a new accessories and footwear team ASAP. … And new stylists… And new CD and AD. …And a new casting director.)

Sorry, but what's a CD and AD. My first thought was Creative/Artistic Director, but that's Peter's job.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yes, creative and art director— for the branding: Shows, presentations, campaign. …Unless Peter is also serving as CD/AD for the marketing LOL

 

[LadyJunon]

^^^ Yes, creative and art director— for the branding: Shows, presentations, campaign. …Unless Peter is also serving as CD/AD for the marketing LOL

That makes sense. I was confused because these days, the CD/AD of the clothes is often also as the CD/AD of the branding.

 

[Lola701]

I’m convinced Tom is after some Kering investment for his film production and/or need to associate with Anthony for clout. Because Tom’s standards are immensely more demanding than Anthony’s admittedly impressive branding for what is ultimately midrange reductive designs and even more meager, mediocre design talent.

At the same time, even with his standards, who is doing what Anthony is doing right now, except maybe for Hedi….
And Anthony beyond the fact that he is proposing that very commanding vision for women, is also referencing his work. He has praised many designers but few have that Creative Director hat in that capacity.

It would be interesting if he is after financing for his movie. I wonder how such a control freak would handle having to have clothes in the movie by Vaccarello and having the cast wearing the brand during the promo tour. Those are the requirements when they are involved in projects…

His 2 previous movies were self financed, right?

But then again, it could be a co-production.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Tom’s always unashamedly stated that he’s equally a businessman as he is a designer— and that’s never a bad trait to possess; if only all these business-type “creatives” were just half as genuinely creative as Tom was at his best, fashion corporations would still be producing at the highest of standards. Contracting Kering’s SL label to contribute the costume designs, as well as having himself and his cast wear Anthony’s SL for any promotion is a fair trade-off in exchange for Kering money for his film project(s). Without a brand to sustain his filmmaking, it’s understandable he’s a tad thrifty-- even with that 3 billion LOL

And Tom will likely never fully abandon his association to fashion, even if it becomes a love/hate relationship, his ego would always draw him back to the people that worships him. And admittedly, Anthony’s offerings will look very good as costumes for a certain type of film, preferably set in the late-80s. I’d even say that Anthony’s designs look very good— even great, when they’re styled, presented and photographed by the right creatives. That really is the secret of his success: Surrounding himself with the right creatives that are far more talented than him will always benefit him as being seen as a visionary— just ask Stella when it was really Phoebe's talent behind Chloe (… and Kering money absolutely doesn’t hurt either...). Learn it, kidz.

 

[THD96]

^^^ No one could ever keep up with Lola when it comes to Tom LOL

(@THD96 :The Tom Ford label doesn’t need to be an edgy, leading, barrier-breaking fashion vision because that’s not who Peter is—nor was it even when Tom lead it. It’s not Tom Ford’s Gucci.

Peter just needs to remember to improve and elevate his strengths: Tailoring and luxury in its most unapologetic decadence. Adding inventive design flourishes from collection to collection is what will keep the label refreshed— not outlandish risks that propose nothing for the Tom Ford customer. But he is in desperate need of a new accessories and footwear team ASAP. … And new stylists… And new CD and AD. …And a new casting director.)

But the thing is Phuel, I never expected Peter to deliver something ground-breaking or him to be the leading voice of fashion, I didn't expect that from Tom so why would I expect it from Peter?
What I want from Peter is he willing to put himself more into the house, I want something more personal, more fun from him. The lack of a strong identity is not something I want from the name Tom Ford.


And you are right about Peter desperately a new creative vision overhaul because his current casting of young girls does not line up with the image of the TF clients. TF needs women with strong attitude and personality. Remember Tom's debut show, that should be the blueprint for the women the house should strive for.

 

[PDFSD]

^^^ No one could ever keep up with Lola when it comes to Tom LOL

(@THD96 :The Tom Ford label doesn’t need to be an edgy, leading, barrier-breaking fashion vision because that’s not who Peter is—nor was it even when Tom lead it. It’s not Tom Ford’s Gucci.

Peter just needs to remember to improve and elevate his strengths: Tailoring and luxury in its most unapologetic decadence. Adding inventive design flourishes from collection to collection is what will keep the label refreshed— not outlandish risks that propose nothing for the Tom Ford customer. But he is in desperate need of a new accessories and footwear team ASAP. … And new stylists… And new CD and AD. …And a new casting director.)

Everything has to change but replacing him :-)

I got that they hired a bags designer from Celine already with Peters first show...but Peter has no distinctive vision (even his own team members rely this) he is a great assistant to Tom that's it.

I think the brand can do better with someone else than Peter, even with such a young brand of TF there is some much potential and stories to tell in a new way taking from what TF already did but adapt it to now.

To much mind gymnastics to try to fix something that should be fairly great awesome job to be doing with equal awesome results at least.

 

[Phuel]

@THD96 , @PDFSD : I suspect corporate pressure has him all over the place and no distinct POV, since a brand has to appeal to everyone and no one in particular these days: The waif/twink castings to appeal to gen z/alpha; the inclusion of tacky eyewear to appeal to the masses; the everything-and-the-kitchen-sink and that random, r*tchet velvet tracksuit that has no place in a seasonal presentation and should only be relegated to a staple for online shopping. All these commercial components reek of corporate meddling. …I’m impressed the restrained at the absence of a logo tee… And having Tom putting him on blast can’t exactly inspire confidence in his own abilities.

The brand, with its new corporate owners, and in this fashion era, can’t afford to be as personal and exclusive as even when Tom debuted his own namesake. I still like that debut and it was very fitting for his own namesake: It was nothing new, but it was very exclusive, very personal, very rich, and very much for how a certain type of women dressed. And there’s still a semblance of this exclusivity, this personality, in what Peter’s offering. There are some really strong and covetable separates. Peter really needs a strong, tight edit for to showcase this. Why not add a few more croc (-embossed?) pieces: Croc opera coat, croc car coat, croc trench… even if it’s just embossed, even a sueded version would look luxe to add a strong, decadent element to pull this offering together. That would be a start… (Can’t loath the footwear enough: It’s as if they ran out pulled all the leftover rejects from a Saks outlet that no women would be caught dead in since Payless Shoes had already ripped off the design by the late-2000.)

And despite his shortcomings, he deserves to stay. The foundation of the brand is still intact, and there re still separates I will purchase— unlike so many other great brands I once adored and now loath; Prada, Helmut Lang, Burberry, McQueen, Givenchy,.. ( I did buy a pair if current-day Burberry boots. But had the soles completely replaced since there was this huge, colourful, tacky Prorsum logo that made me feel like I was a toddler had I not replaced it.) But Peter needs to desperately hire new teams— both for the fashion department and the marketing department.