Tom Ford Resort 2025 Milan

[PDFSD]

@THD96 , @PDFSD : I suspect corporate pressure has him all over the place and no distinct POV, since a brand has to appeal to everyone and no one in particular these days: The waif/twink castings to appeal to gen z/alpha; the inclusion of tacky eyewear to appeal to the masses; the everything-and-the-kitchen-sink and that random, r*tchet velvet tracksuit that has no place in a seasonal presentation and should only be relegated to a staple for online shopping. All these commercial components reek of corporate meddling. …I’m impressed the restrained at the absence of a logo tee… And having Tom putting him on blast can’t exactly inspire confidence in his own abilities.

The brand, with its new corporate owners, and in this fashion era, can’t afford to be as personal and exclusive as even when Tom debuted his own namesake. I still like that debut and it was very fitting for his own namesake: It was nothing new, but it was very exclusive, very personal, very rich, and very much for how a certain type of women dressed. And there’s still a semblance of this exclusivity, this personality, in what Peter’s offering. There are some really strong and covetable separates. Peter really needs a strong, tight edit for to showcase this. Why not add a few more croc (-embossed?) pieces: Croc opera coat, croc car coat, croc trench… even if it’s just embossed, even a sueded version would look luxe to add a strong, decadent element to pull this offering together. That would be a start… (Can’t loath the footwear enough: It’s as if they ran out pulled all the leftover rejects from a Saks outlet that no women would be caught dead in since Payless Shoes had already ripped off the design by the late-2000.)

And despite his shortcomings, he deserves to stay. The foundation of the brand is still intact, and there re still separates I will purchase— unlike so many other great brands I once adored and now loath; Prada, Helmut Lang, Burberry, McQueen, Givenchy,.. ( I did buy a pair if current-day Burberry boots. But had the soles completely replaced since there was this huge, colourful, tacky Prorsum logo that made me feel like I was a toddler had I not replaced it.) But Peter needs to desperately hire new teams— both for the fashion department and the marketing department.

Sure i agree it not the worst what is being shown post Tom´s exit to be fair even Tom did many lukewarm presentations and ads during his own time at TF) ,but for me since i know the toxic climate in the studio i feel less hopeful or supportive of this guy and the interview with Suzy matched what i have been hearing from workers there regarding his strength or (No)vision.

Makes me root for someone more able and willing to bring effortlessly TF ´s chic sexy joyfull grown up excitement for the TF brand within the TF codes.

I understand corporate meddling but a think we give the scary business people to much weight of power in in thinking that they sketch the shoes and bags and decide the final styling etc i am sure you know what i intend to say.

A brief can be we need to speak to X group etc but its Peter and his team to fill in the dots ...

I find it hard to shop for myself at the big brands once i adore, i agree with your points on this 10000% so much is so tacky branding.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ In better fashion times, even speaking realistically, pragmatically, profitably, on an equally commercial and creative level, Lola’s fav Vauthier would be a perfect candidate to reimagine the Tom Ford women, while Peter would remain as the menswear lead. This union would absolutely refresh the brand to a new creative sensibility, and to a new creative height. Unfortunate that this fashion era corporate would likely not be convinced of the potential growth— creatively and profitably, of such a union. They likely only see a financial risk. Corporate hiveminds have plagued, and made so many poor choices with other brands, it’s expected they would not see the potential with Vauthier at Tom Ford. And even more unfortunate, they just don’t care. That’s the reality of the times.

As long as the reality remains that Peter is the sole lead, I’m making the best of the situation. These dire fashion days, I'm thankful that the handlers haven't replace Peter with LaQuan Smith LOL (…Maybe I would be more vocal against Peter if I were a women customer of the brand, so I get the resistance towards him.)

 

[Lola701]

^^^ In better fashion times, even speaking realistically, pragmatically, profitably, on an equally commercial and creative level, Lola’s fav Vauthier would be a perfect candidate to reimagine the Tom Ford women, while Peter would remain as the menswear lead. This union would absolutely refresh the brand to a new creative sensibility, and to a new creative height. Unfortunate that this fashion era corporate would likely not be convinced of the potential growth— creatively and profitably, of such a union. They likely only see a financial risk. Corporate hiveminds have plagued, and made so many poor choices with other brands, it’s expected they would not see the potential with Vauthier at Tom Ford. And even more unfortunate, they just don’t care. That’s the reality of the times.

As long as the reality remains that Peter is the sole lead, I’m making the best of the situation. These dire fashion days, I'm thankful that the handlers haven't replace Peter with LaQuan Smith LOL (…Maybe I would be more vocal against Peter if I were a women customer of the brand, so I get the resistance towards him.)

Tbh, even in menswear, I would be more interested in seeing Vauthier’s voice.

I understand why Hawkings was chosen instead of the womenswear design director for example but it’s also time to evolve the menswear look.

There were times when Tom Ford was doing flare pants, when it was more of a dapper look…It’s maybe time to give a fresher take on that.

I want to see a Tom Ford menswear collection a la Gucci or YSL Fall 2002.

I know it’s only the beginning but I expect more from someone who worked with Tom, who knows the layers and complexity of his aesthetic, who lives in London…etc. Tom’s environment has always inspired his work and living in LA gave to his fashion proposition something more flashy, sometimes tacky but maybe less dignified.

Maybe Tom Ford eveningwear for men could include tailcoats tuxedos for once…

 

[grimm]

According to Lauren Sherman, the milan show in September has been cancelled... Anyone any ideas why?

 

[LadyJunon]

According to Lauren Sherman, the milan show in September has been cancelled... Anyone any ideas why?

Do you have a source on this?

 

[Phuel]

Tbh, even in menswear, I would be more interested in seeing Vauthier’s voice.

I understand why Hawkings was chosen instead of the womenswear design director for example but it’s also time to evolve the menswear look.

There were times when Tom Ford was doing flare pants, when it was more of a dapper look…It’s maybe time to give a fresher take on that.

I want to see a Tom Ford menswear collection a la Gucci or YSL Fall 2002.

I know it’s only the beginning but I expect more from someone who worked with Tom, who knows the layers and complexity of his aesthetic, who lives in London…etc. Tom’s environment has always inspired his work and living in LA gave to his fashion proposition something more flashy, sometimes tacky but maybe less dignified.

Maybe Tom Ford eveningwear for men could include tailcoats tuxedos for once…

Losing faith in Peter already…?!?!?! Was there a falling out between the two of you???LOL???

I’m hoping it’s because Peter’s cautious, even timid at the moment— as most would be when taking on the lead for the first time, and in time, he will become more confident in maneuvering, representing and evolving the brand. There looks to be much unsureness, insecurity and just outright inexperience from him so far. I hope he’s not Kris Van Assche at Dior Homme, where he never did find his footing remotely worthy of following Hedi— and more importantly, a complete disregard for the existing Dior Homme customer. In that sense, I appreciate Peter’s caution even more: His Tom Ford is still serving the customer that’s made the brand successful. It may be boring, conservative and stale, but Tom Ford’s customer— especially the male customer, isn’t going to instantly jump on Vauthier’s aesthetic translated for men— and even more so from a designer who’s never designed for men.

Very very very few designers are equally capable of greatness with both womenswear and menswear. And although Peter isn’t anywhere near “great”, he’s a very good tailor, for both men and women. Peter needs to be inspired of course— and the dream that is Vauthier helming the womenswear would be that inspiration. At his best, he’s a very proper, classic, solid tailor who’s designing for adults, and this means so much more in these days of sloppy, juvenile costume designers masquerading as designers completing ruining once great Houses.

 

[Lola701]

Losing faith in Peter already…?!?!?! Was there a falling out between the two of you???LOL???

I’m hoping it’s because Peter’s cautious, even timid at the moment— as most would be when taking on the lead for the first time, and in time, he will become more confident in maneuvering, representing and evolving the brand. There looks to be much unsureness, insecurity and just outright inexperience from him so far. I hope he’s not Kris Van Assche at Dior Homme, where he never did find his footing remotely worthy of following Hedi— and more importantly, a complete disregard for the existing Dior Homme customer. In that sense, I appreciate Peter’s caution even more: His Tom Ford is still serving the customer that’s made the brand successful. It may be boring, conservative and stale, but Tom Ford’s customer— especially the male customer, isn’t going to instantly jump on Vauthier’s aesthetic translated for men— and even more so from a designer who’s never designed for men.

Very very very few designers are equally capable of greatness with both womenswear and menswear. And although Peter isn’t anywhere near “great”, he’s a very good tailor, for both men and women. Peter needs to be inspired of course— and the dream that is Vauthier helming the womenswear would be that inspiration. At his best, he’s a very proper, classic, solid tailor who’s designing for adults, and this means so much more in these days of sloppy, juvenile costume designers masquerading as designers completing ruining once great Houses.

He designed a menswear look in his last collection. That’s why I have faith in him.
Ok, the cut was weird but it was convincing and it had a sense of classicism and chic.

Concerning Peter, I let people 3 years because I think it’s the time needed get a foot at a house, find the right angle and then create something that would allow the creativity to mesh with the commercial.