PARIS A blue sky dawned at Yves Saint Laurent on Monday as Stefano Pilati followed in Tom Ford's footsteps at the famous but loss-making house. The menswear collection shown on the racks with all the discretion of a private club, offered a fresh take on Saint Laurent's slender, raffish personal image in the 1970s. Those iconic black and white photographs displayed at the entrance were backed up with serious clothes in light fabrics and subtle colors.
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Pilati, 38, who worked with Ford for three years, looks like an asset for Gucci group, for his menswear collection hit the right modern note. Wearing a textured jacket and a multi-colored belt bought in Guatemala (and remade for YSL), Pilati said that he was aiming for a younger customer and wanted to interpret the Saint Laurent look without bow-tie conservatism, but with a sensitive palette. (Think lilac socks displayed with taupe Prince of Wales pants.)
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Cut and fabric were Pilati's mantra as he joined this season's revival of the blazer, cut close to the body, with versions in sky blue cotton and textured silk. A blue blouson and striped poor boy sweater seemed Gallic, in a way that Ford never quite captured for all his panache and elegance. Pilati also referred to Saint Laurent's Marrakesh in dusty orange and tobacco brown, showing that he is embracing the heritage.