Suzy Menkes International Herald Tribune
The ski slope created in the desert landscape of Dubai could be a metaphor for haute couture: Anything is possible. Valentino opened his collection with a landscape of sand dunes rolling under a burning sun and he proceeded to make the desert bloom with full blown rose and peony patterns. The Roman couturier even added the ice in the series of snowy satin and lace gowns that closed the show.
"I wanted it light - nothing, nothing," said Valentino, meaning that he had extended his craftsmanship to the max to make every fluid, flowing ruffle, each crusty insert of lace or rose traced in tiny stitches seem as effortless and weightless as a grain of desert sand.
The effect was lovely, especially in the way that the streaky sky sunset colors washed over the clothes in mauve and absinthe green. But all this airy elegance was inhibited by clothes that often seemed too perfect, as the ingénue models with loose hair were fitted into bodices worked like a lattice. The fitted jackets and dresses slightly raised at the waist had a taut prettiness.
Yet why should Valentino let go, when his entire image and career have been built on absolute perfection? And if that pretty elegance is what you crave in couture, the collection was faultless, from its lilac polka dot ruffles with a draped shawl to those rose-strewn evening dresses that might once have been a mother's dream for a docile debutante - and which might flower on the red carpet for a sweet young thing.
