Tuesday, December 05, 2006
Versace Revs Up Designs for Pre-Fall
By Alessandra Ilari and Marc KarimzadehSpring, fall, cruise — and now pre-fall. Further proving that earlier is better, at least where retail in the U.S. is concerned, Versace has jumped on the pre-fall bandwagon.
On the heels of a strong spring collection, Donatella Versace has designed her first major pre-fall collection of 50 looks. Underscoring the importance of the U.S. market, the line opened to retailers and press at the house's Olympic Tower showroom in New York on Monday, and will be shown there for a week. It fleshes out the handful of women's looks Versace usually puts on the men's wear runway in Milan in January.
"Today, it's impossible to operate without pre-collections," said Versace. "They gained tremendous momentum and have to be commercially fashionable, which is why this collection is the evolution of spring."
It's an opportune time for Versace to step on the accelerator. In September, chief executive officer Giancarlo Di Risio disclosed that Gianni Versace SpA has moved into the black again, largely benefiting from several restructuring efforts implemented since his arrival at the house in 2004. That, coupled with the well-received spring runway collection — one of Milan's best, according to many — has given the house a solid platform to explore new venues of growth.
Patrick Guadagno, president and chief operating officer of wholesale at Versace USA, stressed that Versace's first pre-fall collection underscores how the company has identified the U.S. as a key market for growth. The U.S. is poised to account for 25 percent of sales in three years. He wouldn't disclose its current status.
For pre-fall, Versace blew up the abstract and graphic design of American artist Jonathan Lasker, while for solids, she pushed the mills to spotlight texture and movement. Looks included short raffia skirts, nubby wools and cashmere, sheared mink and fox with burned-out details. Colors were on the delicate side with winter white, coffee, rose and grape red. The pencil-thin pieces skimmed the body without clinging to it. "A slim, feather-light cashmere jersey dress topped by a coat or jacket is a modern silhouette for me right now," said Versace.
For when night descends and the razzle-dazzle quotient ascends, Versace used cascades of shiny sequins assembled in color blocks or splattered all over for a liquid effect.
part of a long wwd.com article



Thanks Lena!