Vogue Italia September 2021

[Phuel]

When was she fashion forward? All she cared about was to sell editorial space to advertisers. It was about photography but fashion was always secondary there.

You’re right. It's fair to say she wasn’t fashion-forward. And her Vogue was so much better for it. She often than not seemed to encourage her team to pull looks that would progress a narrative direction for a story, enhancing the personality, mood and tone of the shoot, which is always much harder to master, and requires so much more talent and creative effort than just being “fashion-forward”. “Fashion-forward” just means this desperate bid to throw any look together before anyone else claims it. Whatever mess is going on right now is rightfully “fashion-forward”— but never looks good, worthwhile nor has staying power. None of these current shoots will be worth digging up a year from now, unlike the best of Franca’s Vogue.

(No one in this world is perfect. And despite Franca’s less than stellar offer in her last year, she will still remain and reign as the standard of what the best of what Vogue represents, only to be matched by Diana and Carine.)

 

[MagFan]

her magazine was the most brilliant fashion publication

hahaha yes sure. With one ed full of Iceberg pieces and the other of Blumarine or so. And this was done in the best years of fashion! Really brilliant!!1

 

[aracic]

hahaha yes sure. With one ed full of Iceberg pieces and the other of Blumarine or so. And this was done in the best years of fashion! Really brilliant!!1

MagFan darling.. is there any mag you are actually a fan of?

 

[ah ah]

At her worst, she was miles ahead, and more fashion forward than Farnetti could ever dream of being.
Her overall legacy is supreme, and legendary.

No one is questioning her legacy, but considering how bad her last issues were makes me think that she would only be producing advertorials with clients in mind more than thinking about the readers. That's what fashion is nowadays.

 

[ah ah]

Yeah, you do. Many of the editorials were wonderful during that time, but the art direction inside the magazine was incredibly dated and overdue for a change.
Although I personally didn't see this at the time, Giovanni Bianco's creative direction was like a breath of fresh air. Naturally, he had his ups and downs but overall he was good for Vogue Italia. And then Verderi's arrival ruined everything.

I had high hopes for Giovanni Bianco but I was disappointed quickly. He was not sophisticated, too many tacky moments. Madonna in Lisbon? No, thanks.

 

[franceslions]

The beach cover was shot in one of the most polluted places in Italy.
The white sea is nothing but a chemical landfill called Rosignano Solvay.
I’m from Tuscany, you can google the name and read about it.
what a shame

 

[Ivancica]

Vogue Italia September 2021

Image credit: abbonatiqui.it

This is still the best cover IMO.

 

[MagFan]

MagFan darling.. is there any mag you are actually a fan of?

Being a fan means to eat all their flaws silently and like everything just because of a name?

 

[dfl-001]

Cover 1 of 9…

1 of 9...!?!

' New Beginnings', same old sh&*.

 

[ivano]

Bye Pumpkin, bye Pumpkin!!! Make your exit.

 

[MulletProof]

I love the beach cover.. I had never seen Massimo's work before but I live for these aerial shots of packed beaches, humans always look so silly but endearingly innocent at the same time.

As you go through the rest of the covers and realise that it's just his final, 'grand' audition for validity in the art world, it gets more unpleasant and the final straw is Hans Ulrich Obrist and to make it worse, one of his insufferable interviews as a cover, nothing screams desperation louder than this guy and all the other guys sucking up to him. But I guess that if I wanted a job there, with all the status it brings, I'd make sure to give Hans a cover, too.

Franca's Vogue Italia only stands out in retrospective, with the rose-colored glasses of a nostalgia exacerbated by the current state of affairs in fashion publications. It was not consistently 'brilliant'.. not even close, she often headed the magazine like a clickbait-driven youtuber. Did her content frequently surpassed in quality and substance the content of the other Vogues? sure, but let's not forget that only 10-15 years ago, we were not stuck with just Vogues and Elles, there were plenty of excellent magazines, even Dazed and i-D were good and not the s*it show they are now. I'm sure Vogue Italia was special if you were into the ultra-commercial, widely available conception of fashion that demands nothing more than hot and beautiful models looking hot and beautiful, but many of these magazines borrowed regularly from independent ones (which had better and original content) and watered it down for mass appeal, there's nothing genius about it.. or about a huge budget if it's just used to re-create content.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Frankly, I adore the masterful balance of creative and commercial. I haven’t always been openly so supportive of such productions: it’s like admitting you like pop music when you’re a teen. However, having worked in fashion for a decade now, I’ve learned to appreciate that to work on a production that carefully balances artful creativity with a commercial sensibility with a confident and clear narrative takes such hard-earned skills to achieve. It’s so much easier to be fashion-forward and only “do what you want”, and not consider the commercial needs of your clients/handlers/readership/demographic. I’ve never minded advertorials— when they’re thoughtfully and richly presented. And for the most part and at her best, Franca excelled at knowing how to reign in the right amount of commerce to balance with the creative. Of course a publication like Vogue has to satisfy their advertisers as well as keep the readers coming back for more, so there are always these failures along the way. Her Vogue just did it all the most so skillfully and creatively-- in general.

This issue… My god, it’s so insipid. It’s the equivalent of someone off their meds and rambling on and on with not a single pause. The 2 (awful) reprints aside, the content is like a wall of words in all-caps. Just awful awful awful.

 

[aracic]

Vogue Italia September 2021



Portrait (Gallery)

Faces Painted by Tschabalala Self






Vogue Italia Digital Edition

 

[aracic]

Vogue Italia September 2021

(1968)-2068

Photography: Mark Borthwick
Hair: Holli Smith
Makeup: Inge Grognard
Models: Yuri Escudie, Loik Gomez, Emma Cabrespines, Oliwia Lis, Charlie Osborne, Lisa Williamson, Awar Odhiang





Vogue Italia Digital Edition

 

[aracic]

Vogue Italia September 2021

Dies Irae

Photography: David Sims
Styling: Marie-Amélie Sauvé
Hair: Duffy
Makeup: Lucia Pieroni
Models: Steinberg, Janet Jumbo, Jolien, Loli Bahia





Vogue Italia Digital Edition

 

[aracic]

Vogue Italia September 2021

Brera

Artwork: Paolo Ventura
Model: Meghan Roche





Vogue Italia Digital Edition

 

[aracic]

Vogue Italia September 2021

(Rebirth of) Venus

Photography: Diana Silvers
Styling: Patti Wilson
Hair: Akki
Makeup: Akiko
Cast: Julia Fox, Nyja Abdullah, Richie Shazam, Charlie Nishimura, Torraine, Carly Mark, Rachelle Vinberg, Precious Okoyomon






Vogue Italia Digital Edition

 

[aracic]

I'm at loss for words.

tenor

There's a page at the very end of the magazine with Verderi looking back at the last two years in Vogue Italia and the amount of delusion and confidence he has about his ''vision''.... I'm stunned.
It's all in Italian but I'm quoting via Google Translate:

The last two years of Vogue Italia have been designed on the idea that creativity is a form of courage. From this perspective, ideas become actions, tools through which to question the world we live in, or more simply, rethink the expectations we face. An idea can remain abstract, an action cannot. An action implies a risk, by definition. If a picture is worth a thousand words, an action is worth a thousand images: a blank cover speaks of silence more than the word itself, a hundred covers speak of diversity more than a hundred words. Intention becomes the message, and risk becomes its medium, a visceral medium because we all know its values. And it is precisely the risk that engages our audience in a profound way. Each month Emanuele Farneti and I considered Vogue Italia an opportunity for action. We believe that actions are what the world needs, and Vogue Italia has always had the courage to lead by example.

 

[WAVES]

some of the editorials show potential but then this last one, ‘Rebirth (of Venus) is so terrible. why this name, even?

also, even if I do love the artwork do a piece about the artist, use the photos you want but don’t call it an editorial. it annoys me for some reason.

won’t be spending my money on this after having bought last month.

 

[lukechapman]

Everything aside from the David Sims ed is terrible.