Who designs for Prada?

RaisinBoy

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Hi,

I know the title may sound very stupid. But a year ago or so I read an article about Miuccia Prada and her brand in the New York Times (perhaps, digital edition for sure) and I can't find that article now.

It was basically saying that Miuccia does not design the clothes, she is rather only a creative director. She gives them the theme to the team for inspiration and than she just says yes/no/more black/less blue etc.

I actually heard this many times mainly because of the men's luggage collection for SS11 which was supposed to be heavily inspired by the work of one of italian designers and it was rumoured that he actually did the collection for her, but wasn't credited. Now with the menswear AW12 the question popped up again in my head, because honestly I don't think Miuccia would have designed such a shallow collection. The fact that it actually happened is a different story, but... you know. :huh:

Thanks
 
Like most designers, I think she has a team of designers to work with and they will play with ideas. I do believe she has a strong hand in the designing of the clothes and leads the direction but of course I'm sure she allows her team some degree of freedom to create. I'm not sure about the mens collection tho... As for the luggage, isn't it just like shoes? Many houses use certain designers to design the shoes for them but it's the Brands name that goes on them... Just my opinion on things
 
If anyone thinks that a designers designs every piece and made it, I just say that Santa Claus doesn't exists :lol:
It's a design team that the Designer in chief commands, but it's everyone work, he's only the face.
 
^true, but from my small point of view (having only worked for two design studios) I have to say that creative directors or persons in charge - aka, person who gets the credit - have different approches towards their job.... one of my bosses was a part of the team, finding inspiration, leading us, giving opinions and did all the refining and unification of work... whereas the other (my current boss), well, he happens to be sometimes at the studio, locked at his office...
 
If anyone thinks that a designers designs every piece and made it, I just say that Santa Claus doesn't exists :lol:
It's a design team that the Designer in chief commands, but it's everyone work, he's only the face.

Well of course I know that there is not only the one famous designer doing everything, but that's why I chose the words I chose. Being the main designer would mean for Miuccia to be the person who does all the research, the main structure of the collection, the first sketches etc. As a creative director, she would 'only' be the person JunyaSchick described.

From what I remember from that article, it said that Miuccia actually designed only Prada's first collection in the 80s and the Pocone bag, while the rest of the collections is not her job at all and she only coordinates and controls her team.

And my 2 cents, a bit off-topic perhaps: I hate that many of nowadays designers are almost 'celebrities' and they actually steal credits from people who do the job.
 
i've always heard Fabio Zambernardi has a very big role in the company when it comes to the actual design, he's described as being miuccia's right hand..
and in the company profile he's listed as design director, whatever that means
 
I just want to point out the failure of Bill Gaytten (right hand of John Galliano at Dior) to come with a true Dior haute couture collection, meaning that a big brain needs to be in charge... which this doesn't neccesarily mean that Miuccia (who I really adore) is that person at Prada.

Plus, I also hate "celebrity-ness" of some designers
 
To avoid misunderstanding, I do adore Miuccia as well. In fact, she's my favourite designer, because she always brings the weird geeky-intellectual uglyness that twists, bends and shifts fashion through materials, silhuettes and cuts. Or when I read an interview with her, it's full of refreshing opinions and attitudes on fashion and the industry that I share with her.

And I know this simple equation that if you want to do breakthrough avantgarde projects, be it fashion or not, you need money first. And so she has to sell a lot of handbags and shoes to be able to do so. I don't criticise her for that.

But after the A/W12 menswear show I felt for the first time dishonesty in a Prada's collection and as well a dull non-complexity. And that's why the whole thing popped up in my mind, because somehow I think - and also I hope and believe - that she is not the author of it.

I mean, it is a great collection, but that's too little for Prada.
 
Well of course I know that there is not only the one famous designer doing everything, but that's why I chose the words I chose. Being the main designer would mean for Miuccia to be the person who does all the research, the main structure of the collection, the first sketches etc. As a creative director, she would 'only' be the person JunyaSchick described.

From what I remember from that article, it said that Miuccia actually designed only Prada's first collection in the 80s and the Pocone bag, while the rest of the collections is not her job at all and she only coordinates and controls her team.

And my 2 cents, a bit off-topic perhaps: I hate that many of nowadays designers are almost 'celebrities' and they actually steal credits from people who do the job.

Actually most creative directors in this industry do more than on might assume. Riccardo, JPG, Marc Jacobs and a lot of other creative directors are heavily involved in the collections and back in the day there were actually a lot more people like Muccia.
And its the designer that takes the bow when everything works well but its also his head that rolls if it doesnt.
 
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this? perhaps?

The Designer

by Michael Specter March 15, 2004

ABSTRACT: PROFILES of fashion designer Miuccia Prada. Last month, days before Miuccia Prada was scheduled to present her 2004 fall collection of women’s clothing, in Milan, she was feeling anxious. It was Valentine’s Day and her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, the demanding Tuscan who is the chief executive of the global group of companies known as Prada Group, was in Florence. Prada was struggling, as she often does, to be both avant-garde and commercially successful. Nearly every season since 1988, when she introduced her first line of women’s clothing, Prada has shown an astonishing ability to create trends. Lists some of these trends. This year, she was inspired by computers. Describes her workroom at Prada headquarters and her interaction with her design director, Fabio Zambernardi. She has a complex about fashion being “superficial and dumb.” Prada doesn’t sew, embroider, sketch, etc. Instead, she surrounds herself with talented people who translate her themes, concepts, and taste into clothes. This unusual approach has made her one of the most influential designers in the world, and one of the most powerful women in Europe. Prada Group now owns controlling interests in Azzedine Alaia, Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, etc. Anyone who wanders into one of Prada’s 165 stores would have to acknowledge that she’s changed the way people think about clothes. Prada’s clothes can be odd and, at times, even purposefully ugly. She is a handsome “sexily dowdy” woman of 53 with her own distinct style. Her paternal grandfather, Mario, made luxury leather-goods for the Italian royal family in the early 1900s, and Prada has been exposed to luxury as a way of life since she was born. As a teen-ager, she rebelled by dressing in an eccentric–even bizarre–manner. She received a Ph.D. in political science from the University of Milan , and began training to be a mime. Describes her interest in feminism. In 1978, she met Patrizio Bertelli; in 1987, they were married. She claims it’s Bertelli who has pushed the company’s ambitions forward. In 1993, she launched her secondary line, Miu Miu, and began a men’s clothing line. In 1997, she introduced a sportswear line. Describes their extensive art collection, which is housed at the Fondazione Prada, in Milan. Mentions foundation director Germano Celant. The couple’s latest enthusiasm is architecture. In the last few years, they’ve opened two major stores–“epicenters”–in New York and Tokyo. The New York store, in SoHo, was designed by Rem Koolhaas. Bertelli considers shopping a sort of religion for the modern global age. Describes the SoHo store. This summer, another epicenter will open in Los Angeles, and discussions are underway for a fourth, in Beijing or Shanghai. Describes a dinner at Prada’s apartment, in central Milan, on the ground floor of the building where she was born and raised. Mentions her two teen-age sons. Discusses Prada and Bertelli’s strange, volcanic relationship. Prada is “all intellect and ideas,” while Bertelli “brings it all down to earth.” Refers to Bertelli’s comment that most fashion houses “do fine without a creative director.” Mentions Prada’s best friend, Manuela Pavesi, who shares her feminism. Discusses Prada’s concerns about a woman’s role in marriage and motherhood. Writer joins Prada at Dino de Laurentii’s studios to watch the filming of a fake reality-television show (“Comizi di Non Amore”) conceived by artist Francesco Vezzoli and funded by Prada’s foundation. Mentions director Pier Paolo Pasolini’s 1964 documentary “Comizi d’Amore.” At the end of the 1990s, Bertelli decided to challenge Gucci and L.V.M.H. as a top luxury-goods house. Describes how the company began buying up major interests in various fashion houses. In order to finance the purchases, Prada Group decided to go public on September, 2001; but after September 11th, the market for luxury goods collapsed. By the end of 2001, Prada’s debts–$1.7 billion–equaled its sales. The debts remain, but Prada’s net profit will rise more than 30% this year, cutting their debts in half. Mentions Miuccia’s concern about taking the company public. The day before her 2004 fall runway show, her anxiety had lifted. Describes the show and its glowing reviews. Prada claims she still doesn’t understand fashion.



The new yorker.
 
Yeah, I think that's not exactly the article, but thanks, it answered my question.

Still, she's pretty good. I guess I'm a very forgiving fan. :D
 
You're welcome. And of course you have to think, even if it's her company, her position has to mean something; Probably she won't cut any fabric or maybe do a drawing, but you know... Most or "all" the decision for create a collection has to be on her hands. Even if it's from approve a material to choose the cast of models, to start with the idea and first thoughts of the collection.
 
Actually I didn't set up this thread to defame Miuccia Prada, in fact she is my very favourite designer and I love her for her vision in fashion, be it the revolutionairy use of fabrics or simply the way how she connects intellect with fashion, which is a rare thing nowadays, unfortunately.

And as I stated before, I understand that sometimes - for economical or other purposes - she must compromise her vision to get through. But, that's a whole different story.
 
I never you were here to do that :flower:, and she's also one of my favorite designers.
Anyways, you can still looking for interviews round the Internet and you might find very interesting thoughts about Miuccia's way to see Fashion, Art, and the World. I personally recomend you this video (http://www.charlierose.com/view/interview/445) where (if you haven't seen it yet) you can learn some very interesting facts about Miuccia way of thinking and also, how she develops a collection. She was interviewed by now former Editor in Chief of "interview" magazine Ingrid Sischy. (2006).
 
I never you were here to do that :flower:, and she's also one of my favorite designers.
Anyways, you can still looking for interviews round the Internet and you might find very interesting thoughts about Miuccia's way to see Fashion, Art, and the World. I personally recomend you this video (http://www.charlierose.com/view/interview/445) where (if you haven't seen it yet) you can learn some very interesting facts about Miuccia way of thinking and also, how she develops a collection. She was interviewed by now former Editor in Chief of "interview" magazine Ingrid Sischy. (2006).

Thank you so much! I've never seen this interview. Actually I try to read interviews with here but there aren't many around, so thank you a lot! :smile:
 
I could read interviews with Miuccia forever, she's so fascinating, witty and intelligent, and of course the sum of all that is two of my consistently favourite labels come show season.
While we're on the topic of who designs and the creative teams behind the brands, is there any threads around discussing who 'consults' for these labels, stylist wise? I know Katie Grand was working with Miuccia a while ago, and I read an old interview earlier today with Katie, saying how she got a phone call as she was due to work on a Miu Miu campaign one day telling her that Miuccia had chosen to work with a different stylist now.
Styling is my main career focus, editorial wise as I guess that's what I know best, but I am interested in the people who consult for these brands too and how those working relationships are established, what they provide for the designers (or team of designers) etc.

Sorry for rambling :blush:
 

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