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wwd / october 27.2009
Meet WWD’s Top 10 collections:
It was a season of ups and downs on both Wall Street and the spring runways. But the cream of the crop delivered with tough love, terrific tweeds, pajamas, seductive fringe and bold graphics.
Chanel
This was Karl Lagerfeld at his savvy best: classic Chanel with a youthful twist. Terrific tweeds, saucy knit numbers and glorious eveningwear, and kudos for that clever stage set with models emerging from a replica of Chanel's 31 rue Cambon headquarters.
Dolce & Gabbana
Pajamas meets Baroque. That peculiar premise from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana provided one of the season's more glamorous romps, packed with breathtaking brocades and the most alluring sleepwear this side of Lullaby Land.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten turned his eye toward optical opulence and delivered on dazzling geometric graphics without losing any of his easy sportif sensibility.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani's terrific collection wowed with a discreetly romantic lineup of gentle tailoring, languid separates and prettily bedecked pastel gowns.
Jil Sander
Raf Simons gave the fringe motif its most stunningly glam treatment in a knockout collection that also flaunted great tailoring and daring diamond finery done in collaboration with Damiani.
Koi Suwannagate
Koi Suwannagate sent out a pitch-perfect - and positively dreamy - lineup that tempered wondrously arty embellishments with chic and easy realworld clothes.
Lanvin
Alber Elbaz has been on a roll, and he came up a winner again. The runway was rife with drop-dead-gorgeous moments: beautifully draped dresses, intriguing tailoring and bejeweled sheaths, stilettos and shades.
Louis Vuitton
Marc Jacobs turned fabulously francophile at Louis Vuitton and offered up a magnificient "so what?" retort to economic grumbling. Pure joie du mode.
Marc Jacobs
More is certainly more, at least for Marc Jacobs. He embraces the past and ample Americana in a spectacular collection that piled on the Gibson girl references with much gusto: bustles, plaids, tweeds, brocade glitter and boater hats galore.
Rodarte
Stunning and provocative. Kate and Laura Mulleavy deftly balance their usual poetic reverie with edgy tough-chic attitude in black chain detailing and bondage-bandage motifs.