Yohji Yamamoto F/W 14.15 Paris

[Psylocke]

I like the hair and make-up...


source: style.com












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[Psylocke]

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[Psylocke]

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[Psylocke]

style.com

 

[mistress_f]

not my favourite yohji collection, at all, but it's still more interesting that most of the stuff out there. i like the bumps and lumps outfits, the first part with the black, huge coats / and this one http://imgbox.com/jdOBPRg1

 

[Scott]

btw,the prints are a continued(as it was featured in the men's prior) collaboration with japanese artist yasuto masada.

i have to say it's all extremely mesmerising…i hope charlie porter posts some showroom because that for me is where the real magic occurs.

 

[mistress_f]

^I'm actually dying to see the single pieces, the styling works, but it's messy for anyone who's interested in seeing the various items the compose the outfits.

 

[krncandi]

Really liked the collection. And loved that they house went for huge scaled prints which is normally avoided in the Textile industry! So I really appreciated that

 

[Koibito]

the silhouette of the 5th look is so interesting! I'm not sure she is walking or sitting or both.

 

[softgrey]

mesmerizing is a good word for it...
so much going on...

 

[elle_gb]

I'm a fan those graffiti on fabric is insanely compelling.

 

[sore]

absolutely adore the 5th look!

 

[Phuel]

The generous, cozy silhouettes gives me an Inuit vibe.

I'm not fond of the pieces that are overwhelmed with artwork since the individual is completely lost in all the kaleidoscopic blast of colorful doodles. It's nice to see designers experiment with different ideas, of course, but I've never been a fan of clothing-as-a-huge-piece-of-artwork design-- didn't like it when Jean-Charles de Castelbajac made it his signature back in the 1980s, hated it with Muiccia's current S/S collection, and I don't like it here.

What I like are all the dramatic and wearable volumes in Kabuki colors. The artwork works much much better in smaller doses since it doesn't overpower his designs, as in the coats with just a touch of it in the form of badges and patches. In particular, the Inuit-esque "snowpants overalls" with the beautiful artwork perfectly positioned right at the center: This is a supreme example of what defines Yohji Yamamoto to me. The entire look there is sublime. And i wish Yohji had expended on and developed more of the knitwear. Sexy, playful, cozy, artisanal and ingenius with the "hair" flowing from the hats! That's the cheeky Yohji I adore.

There's a lot he's offering here, and that's never a bad thing when it's Yohji..

 

[Petit Lucille]

Since I'm a sucker for volume and knits... I am in love once more. This man is sensibility desinging, touching our cores.

 

[La bordélique]

yohji on acid!! so much to take in!

 

[PROPERMENTAL]

so good i cant take it!
i can't even choose my favorite coat there are tens of them

 

[Not Plain Jane]

Wow, this is like a celebration of blankets/comforters and street graffiti, lol. But the two combined almost make me think of homelessness. I can see the tribal references too.

 

[runner]

afpbb

 

[runner]

his mother might have told him to make some modern kaimaki (sort of warm nightwear which you'd sleep in too) which she could go out in. then he had to make a bit desperately something of a cool mediator between kaimaki and dotera (winter gown not as warm as kaimaki).


afpbb
amazon
mona - baby
e-hapi dokusho

 

[softgrey]

the style.com review provides little clues...

February 28, 2014 Paris

By Amy Verner

Backstage after the Yohji Yamamoto show, one stood a better chance of gleaning clues about the duvet dresses and knotted-sheet skirts from makeup maven Pat McGrath than from the designer himself; his explanations can be Yoda-level at best. McGrath said she worked with the idea of "powerful dolls," which Yamamoto soon confirmed as part of a fairy tale he constructed—and then extended well past its visual limit. The designer never quite got around to describing how he achieved such impressive volume other than to confirm that volume was his focus. One would hazard a guess that the pieces were densely padded like pillows rather than structurally supported with crinolines.

But what began as an intriguing notion of gothic cocooning (inviting an inevitable comparison to last season's Comme des Garçons collection) quickly turned fantastically trippy as Yamamoto applied the same hand-painted graffiti-tattoo designs from his menswear to his women's silhouettes. Following a brief knitwear entr'acte, including shoulder detailing that vaguely mimicked samurai armor, he presented a few arbitrary tailored looks and then returned to his haphazard mix of ample shapes. The elephantine printed silk snow pants and the paddle mitts were particularly unwieldy (forget about holding a smartphone). The show culminated in a white leather cloak depicting doughnut-eating, dagger-wielding ogres and two other coats bearing outer-space and occult iconography. None of these subject matters would qualify as happily ever after by any definition. But here's a thought: Maybe this entire exercise was a reaction against the phenomenal ubiquity of the ultra-thin, monochromatic down jacket. Maybe the weirdness and wideness of Yamamoto's collection was his way of rewriting the rules of warmth.

*i will say that i would happily wear the first two looks...