This is his 40th anniversary collection, it seems like yesterday he arrived to Paris...jk I wasn't even born.
Divine show to mark the milestone, I think I prefer the mens one but they work like chapter 1 and 2 of the same 19th century flavored story.
The gown with corset detailing is flawlessly executed and remains completely modern while bringing to mind the past. I would kill to walk in that floor length coat sliced into panels, it moves like a dream. The second to last leather jacket is a wonder and as Fulton mentioned, a masterful example of deconstruction.
The more experimental pieces have their own thing going on. Those volumes jutting out of the body and draped with faded red fabric are so evocative, the models resemble walking temples adorned for a festivity. The hankerchief dress with white stripes hanging from it (and worn with a bomber) has such rythm.
As an aside I like that the models have different hairstyles that complement their particular look.
P.S. The pictures on Vogue Runway are incomplete for some reason, the closing looks were a group of mini-dresses.
To conmemorate the ocassion I'll share one of the looks at his first Paris showing (that took place in his newly opened boutique) and the man himself taking his bow at the end:
europeana.eu