Y's Yohji Yamamoto, F/W 2003

[tricotineacetat]

I thought this would be worth showing now that people are paying more attention to the latest collections at Y's... this had been my most favourite collection, by opening the thread I wanted to show that the collection had once been different that what it is now... I personally thought it was much nicer back then, while keeping similar key elements. Feel free to discuss!

(all images: firstview.com)

 

[tricotineacetat]

Crazy colour!

(same picture source)

 

[tricotineacetat]

 

[BaroqueRockstar]

thanks for the pics!
i'm really really beginning to like yamamoto

 

[tricotineacetat]

All the gabardine coats with macramé have undergone a very nerve-wrecking process in which the gabardine had been frayed out by hand only to be knotted afterwards (again, hours of work by some old women that still know about these old patterns that are traditionally Japanese) ... all these small ribbons were originally just tied in by the craftsmen to secure the threads during the tieying process, when Yohji received them back, he loved this detail so much that he decided to keep them on the clothing... I thing they made a beautiful touch on the garment...

All this information comes from a dear friend that used to work for the company for many years... he's been like a walking book as he knew something to say about every piece in the collection, it was awesome to listen every time I passed by!

 

[nqth]

Thanks for the pics and the info:-)

I think Y's now is more about tailoring, which looks good imo, except the long skirts, tho.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Here are some more tailored looks... it's actually the other way around... in this collection, there was a lot of knitwear involved in the styling, but most of the stuff from the showroom was actually tailoring. The cuts were really devine, like the first jacket where the front and back part are made entirely of one piece of fabric that has just been folded over... Y's these days is very much all about traditional (japanese) workwear in oversized proportions... the garments themselves are not so much detailed at all.

 

[nqth]

^the first jkt is awesome. Yes this has def. more drapping and touches of Yamamoto's hand.

I agree that small details or construction's twists are missing in most recent collections. Now it is almost only a gme on proportion.

I wrote this in the Comme Shirt's thread and it can also be seen here. It's so minimal now. (So minimalism has came indeed:-)

 

[softgrey]

hmmm...it's interesting because as someone who is VERY familiar with Y's...
and yohji in general...
i can see a sort of 'greatest hits list' here...

i think the strongest part of Y's has always been the knitwear...
and i think it obviously still is...it's very impressive imo...
i also think the jackets/coats are always gorgeous-creative and dramatic...
and painfully elegant..

i almost choked when i saw the back of the second look tric posted...
......

i could happily add several of these pieces to my wardrobe...
(i actually purchased the second to last jacket...the one that twists)
thanks for the thread and for sharing the info tric...
very very interesting little details...

where can we see the whole collection please?...

 

[Avantster]

Thanks for posting this tricot.

The 'folded' jacket made from one piece of fabric is quite divine. And your description of the hand fraying and the ribbons from the tying process was beautiful.

Now where is that friend of yours... I need to talk to him. Now.

 

[gius]

thank you so much for posting this, tricotineacetat I got really interested when you mentioned the macrame and tie-dye in the other thread. i've tried macrame myself and it can only be done by hand...so i'm really amazed by the work in these pieces.

where can we see the whole collection please?...

softgrey, I found the rest of the photos here:
http://www.firstview.com/alldesigners/Ys.html
I had to go to Y3 to find it and Yohji Yamamoto

 

[skot4mc]

definitely worth bringing up, thank you
brilliant details and volume.

 

[Honey~Blade]

Beautiful thread tricot!

May I ask, what is macrame?

 

[gius]

^Macrame is lacework done by weaving and knotting cords together

 

[Honey~Blade]

^Thanks for that it certainly sounds like fun!

 

[tricotineacetat]

I agree that the knits at Y's are always awesome - both in cut and yarn quality. It's interesting to look at because these days people are saying that he copied the formula from Rick Owens, with all these cocoon-like pieces, but in fact, that's been part of the collection as long as I can remember. Some of the silhouettes with the lace-y knits appear to be almost shapeless but worn separately, they would look totally amazing!

I really have nice memories having worked with this collection - that apron-like top with matching long skirt that is just tied in the back was such a pleasure to put up and sell to costumers - not easy per sé, but absolutely stunning to look at - I also had the twisted jacket and I absolutely adored how it draped on the body...

My friend is not with Yohji anymore, he's now with Balenciaga's commercial team.

 

[new_dawn_fades]

oh tricot thanks so much.. and the way you describe things just makes me even more interested..

yohji must have one talented team.. no one gives them much credit.. Im sure Y's has a team of assistants..dont they? but yes YOhji is the master..no doubt!

 

[purpleglossy]

i remember this collection! It's really nice and awesome, really want to buy if there's any at the 2nd hand market!

Thanks tricotineacetat!

 

[faust]

Thanks tricot, so beautiful!

 

[Buckwheat]

thanks for sharing tricot. Very beautiful indeed.