1930s : Fashion of the Stylish Thirties

[DosViolines]

Articles on 30s fashion:

• 1930-1945 in fashion (wikipedia)
• The Great Depression and Women's Fashion (vintagetextile)
• 1930s Fashion History (fashion-era)
• 1930's (costumes.org)
• Ladies Fashions of the 1930s
• The Thirties (edentaylor)

 

[DosViolines]

Worth couture evening gown of sequined tulle with asymmetrical floral spray design, plunging neckline, and back train, c.1930.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Glamorous sequined, backless evening gown, c.1930.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Marlene Dietrich, wearing a Charles James satin gown, c.1934.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Silk French lace evening dress and coat, c.1928-1930

It's a rare treat to find a dress and matching coat still together. This exquisite ensemble includes the original under slip, a full length lace dress, and a three-quarter length lace coat.

The ensemble is fashioned from burgundy French silk lace. The silk fiber gives the lace a warm sheen. The matching silk crepe slip is finished with a wide hem border of lace that hangs below the hem of the dress.

The top of the slip has a neckline insert and shoulder straps of ivory silk chiffon.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

French sequined evening jacket, 1930s

The hand-beaded jacket is fashioned from black silk organza, which is sheer like chiffon but has a little more body to hold the shape. It closes at the neckline and waist with small self-covered buttons. The jacket is lavishly hand embroidered with clusters of multi-colored, sequined flowers. The heart-shaped leaves are quite thrilling!

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Chantilly lace peignoir, 1930s

This seductive peignoir uses black Chantilly lace, associated with romance and mystery, to add to the subtle yet unmistakable sexual tension. The cut of the peignoir is rather simple and sweet; the lace makes the design.

The peignoir, which is tacked closed in front, slips over the head. Extra fullness in the skirt is added at the hipline on the sides, leaving the pattern of the lace unbroken in back.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Satin lounging pajamas, 1930

As a glamorous alternative to the negligée, lounging pajamas were very popular in the 1930s. The idea that pants on a woman could be seductive seemed particularly modern at the time. Our pajamas are fashioned from a blend of ivory rayon and silk, marked on the size tag, and are trimmed with beige floral lace.

The pants have wide legs, pleats at the waist, and a side button closure—see the two bottom pictures. The bias-cut top is smocked above the bust and ties in back with satin ribbons.

The vogue for lounging pajamas has a distinguished lineage in couture. The great couturier Paul Poiret, inspired by the Ballets Russes in 1909, introduced Orientalism to the fashion scene. Modern lounging pajamas came from two of his innovations, harem pants and pantaloons. Myrna Loy, as Nora Charles in The Thin Man films, showed how seductive a woman can be in lounging pajamas.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Gold lamé Hollywood style evening gown, 1930s

The bias cut molds the dress to the woman, rather than vice versa, thanks to the greatest couturière of all, Madeleine Vionnet, the originator of the bias cut. The gown is fashioned from gold lamé brocaded with Oriental-style gold flowers. The gold lamé sparkles more up close than in the pictures

The surplice-style bodice falls in softly draped folds below the deep "V" neckline, both in front and back. The ingenious skirt train, on one side of the back rather than dead center as expected, adds to the illusion of undulating movement around the torso. The gown closes on the side with tiny hooks.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Bias-cut silk chiffon evening gown, c.1930

The sensual bias cut of the gown epitomizes the glamorous Hollywood look of the Depression years. The bias cut molds the dress to the woman, rather than vice versa.

The dress is fashioned from sheer, silk chiffon covered with gold-tone studs. The body-molding bias cut of the silk crepe slip shows through the sheer outer layer. The edges are finished with hand-rolled hems. I love the faux sleeves, open at the shoulder. The dress slips over the head.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Beaded French lace evening dress, c.1930

The elegant black-on-black design is the height of high style sophistication with the body-clinging beaded torso and svelte straight underskirt, visible behind the delicate lace overskirt.

The dress features the fine construction expected from a Parisian fashion house in the early 20th century. It is fashioned in layers with black crepe-backed satin on the inside. The rows of black beads on the black silk tulle torso are curved to conform to the curves of the body.

I love the contrast of shiny black bugle beads with matte black lace. The softly gathered French lace overskirt has a wide scalloped border of Chantilly lace. The lace overskirt is longer than the underskirt, allowing a tantalizing glimpse of the leg. The dress slips over the head with no closures.

The dress has two labels. One reads "Made in France" and the other reads "Harry Angelo Company/Paris."

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Satin evening cape, c.1930

The cape is fashioned from champagne colored silk satin and is totally lined with the same. The fabric is weighted and draped to form an exquisite soft sculpture. I love the smocked shoulders and braided neckline trim.

The cape closes at the neckline with a loop and self-covered button; the neckline ties are decorative only. They can be left hanging straight in front or thrown over the shoulder. Here is a magnificent statement in understated luxury. The decoration is minimal, allowing full attention to the superb fabric.

The cape has the name tag of the original owner, Catherine Ann Currie, as well as the "Siegel/Detroit" store label.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Rhinestone beaded capelet, c.1930

Fluttery little capelets were a popular cover for the bare-shouldered evening dresses in the 1930s.

The capelet is fashioned from bias-cut flounces of pale green silk chiffon. The neckline band sparkles with rhinestones and clear crystal beads. The capelet closes at the neckline with self ties.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Hand-embroidered silk nightgown, 1930s

This lovely ivory nightgown, which has never been worn, was hand embroidered in China for the Western market.

This elegant bias-cut nightgown epitomizes the fluid look of the 1930s. You can wear it with or without the belt. The body of the nightgown is fashioned from ivory silk damask. The matching bodice insert is hand embroidered on two layers of ivory silk chiffon. The nightgown is completely hand stitched.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Peasant style hand-embroidered dress, c.1930

Peasant style sheer cotton dresses with hand smocking were all the rage in the late 1920s and early 1930s. Since then the combination of smocking and hand-embroidered whitework has maintained its appeal. In fact, the vogue for peasant style dress is much older. After the French Revolution when the Directory took over (1795), simple peasant "Rousseauesque" styles were ultrafashionable.

The dress is fashioned from sheer white cotton voile with just a hint of pale gray. There was probably more color at one time. The fine hand embroidery features a nice textural variety of stitches and open work.

The fullness is controlled at the shoulders and waist with hand smocking. I love the fluttery faux sleeves, which are so cool and comfortable on a hot day. The dress closes on the side with snaps.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Silk chiffon/appliquéd tulle dress, c.1930

The technique of appliquéing cutouts of floral prints on a sheer ground was very popular in the 1930s, after first appearing in 1920s couture designs of Coco Chanel.

The torso of the dress is fashioned from bias-cut floral silk chiffon. The tulle hem border and back cape are appliquéd with matching floral print cutouts. This time consuming technique was generally found on expensive garments. The dress is worn over a bias-cut black silk crepe slip. They both slip over the head.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Beaded lamé evening dress, 1930s

The dress, obviously very expensive when new, is fashioned from gold and purple silk/lamé brocaded with metallic gold.

The silk chiffon neckline insert is embellished with gold and silver beads. The bodice has an under layer of matching silk chiffon that is beaded around the neckline edge. The dress closes on the side with hooks.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Rayon velvet evening dress, 1930s

This seductive dress, fashioned from sensual rayon velvet, features front torso ruching, a key hole neckline, and a slight back train. The waistline fullness can be adjusted with the back ties.

The collar, which closes in front with a hook, can also be worn open. The dress has its original bouquet of knotted thread flowers. The dress closes on the side with snaps.

The label reads "DCSB/Original Design."

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Cotillion lace party dress, 1930s

The dress is constructed with two layers attached at the neckline. The form-fitting torso and long sleeves of the outer layer are fashioned from black silk lace. I love the bold floral pattern of the lace. The delicate, feminine petals reach out to touch their neighbors. Nature and art together have flawlessly finished this floral jigsaw puzzle to adorn the female form.

The full skirt that flares below the hipline is bias-cut black silk chiffon. The under layer of the dress is a strapless, black silk crepe slip attached to a beige silk chiffon yoke. The sleeves and neckline are bias bound with black chiffon. The lace layer of the dress closes on the side with a snap; the sleeves close at the wrist with snaps.

vintagetextile

 

[DosViolines]

Bias-cut silk knit lace party dress, 1930s

The dress slips over the head and closes at the shoulders with ties. The flirty skirt of layered ruffles dips lower in back.

vintagetextile