1930s : Fashion of the Stylish Thirties

Deco sequined tulle shell, c.1930

The lightweight black tulle shell is totally covered with sparkling sequins. It probably was originally part of a glamorous Hollywood-style evening gown.

The black yoke of the shell is lined with black silk chiffon. The shell slips over the head with no closure.
vintagetextile
 

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Deco beaded tulle evening gown, c.1930

The gown is fashioned from black cotton tulle totally covered with a Deco pattern of silver beads and black sequins. Wide bands of black sequins outline the neckline, side openings, and waistband. I love the way the waistband dips from its natural position in back to a deep "V" in front, emphasizing the curve of the hip.

The gown is totally lined with black silk crepe de chine. It closes in back with hooks and snaps.
vintagetextile
 

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French gold sequined evening gown, c.1930

French gowns of this quality from the 1930s are difficult to find. By 1932, the Roaring 1920s were ancient history. Economics is main reason for the relative abundance of vintage clothing from the 1920s vs. the 1930s. Less fine clothing was created in the 1930s compared to the abundant production during the prior decade.

Our glamorous gown has a small "Made in France" label. Thus, we do not know its creator. The gown is fashioned from a cotton cheesecloth-type fabric that is a bit more substantial than tulle. The gown is totally covered with swirling patterns of gold sequins outlined with amber-colored glass beads.

The neckline, which is square in front, plunges to a deep "V" in back. The hips are accented with a draped peplum. The gown closes on the side with hooks and snaps.
vintagetextile
 

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Cranberry Chiffon Velvet Manteau
Possibly Schiaparelli, French, circa 1930
The controlled narrow full length cape slightly gathered front and back to an elaborate cut, padded and foliate embroidered applied yoke, each side of front an applied panel, no size, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Metallic Gold Embroidered Capelet
French, 1930s
Creme wool capelet with high band collar, embroidered in neo-Balkan inspired pattern all around neck, front and hem with applied gold cord and faux turquoise beads, braided gold ball closure at neck, creme silk satin lining, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Chanel Inspired Black Lace Evening Dress
American, early 1930
Chantilly type lace, sleeveless with scoop neckline, rear self cape banded in silk tulle, slender body with hip yoke centered with a self bow, elaborate arrangement of hip level godets released into free flowing panels at knee, augmented by additional panels over an underlayer of lace, separate crepe slip, no label.

Believed to be an American reproduction of an original Chanel design.
doylenewyork
 

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Black Bias Cut Chiffon Evening Dress
American, 1930s
Front fitted bodice with V-neckline and faux surplice closing, hand rolled chiffon capelets attached at shoulder and rear waist, slender skirt hem with one godet at each side and one at center back, each with three flared bias ruffles forming fishtail hem, self belt with diamante and faux carved red coral buckle, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Black Crepe and Lace Evening Gown
American, late 1930s
Fitted bodice with dramatic full raglan sleeves with radiating darts around wrist, front bodice geometrically seamed with lace triangle at center front midriff, lined with nude chiffon, flanked by two triangles of crepe, two triangles of lace at shoulder, rear bodice with transparent lace back open from neck to waist, flared bias skirt and self cumerbund, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Milgrim Couture Lavish Evening Blouse and Another
American, 1930s

The first of cinnamon chiffon shot with metallic gold lame flowers, flame and creme flowers with green leaves, surplice closure with exaggerated shawl collar, closing to left side on diagonal with faux beaded buttons and self loops, kimono sleeves with an applied pouf from upper arm past elbow, fitted to wrist with same closures, labeled: Milgrim.

The second of porcelain blue crepe, high neckline with small collar points at front forming high V-neckline, chevron motif of alternating metallic gold flower pattern with tangerine flowers, self button and handworked loops at either shoulder, short set in sleeves with open pleats at cap, side seams pleated at waistline, size 6, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Milgrim Hand Painted Chiffon Dress
American, early 1930s
The bias design of creme ground with lime and lemon stylized twining leaf pattern at sides, hem and short cape sleeve, draped neckline, self sash at waist of creme and lemon intertwined chiffon, ivory silk slip with picot edge, with original Milgrim faux bois print box, dress labeled: Milgrim.
doylenewyork
 

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Lemon Silk Chiffon Chemise Dress
American, early 1930s
Vertically pieced, the camisole bodice with chevron seam at neck yoke and drop waist, rolled edges, the skirt with released gores and godets, braided self belt, lemon silk slip with picot hem and net bra, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Egyptian Style Terra Cotta Gown
American, 1930s
Of shirred crepe, curvilinear shaped belt, band neckline and revealed straps of slip applied with metallic gold ribbon embroidered with faux turquoise beads, filigree metal domed medallions and beads, floor length slim skirt, cutaway shoulder at demi-empire bodice, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Steel Grey Panne Velvet Opera Coat
1930s
The surplice design gathered at left hip to button with large applique rondel, trimmed with eggshell blue dyed maribou at deep V-neckline and ends of modified kimono sleeves, creme silk lining, no size, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Moss Silk Velvet Stenciled Evening Cape
Attributed to Gallenga, 1930s
Thigh length with dipped back, self tie at neck with stenciled turnback at hem, cylindrical painted murano bead trim from shoulder to hem, vertical triangular silver and gold floral and foliate motif stencils, silk lining, one size, no label.
doylenewyork
 

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Silk Charmeuse Orientalist Pyjama Ensemble
French, 1930s
Mint and bottle green, short waisted top shaped with vertical darts along hem, modified three-quarter sham hanging kimono sleeve, wide legged pants with V yoke and self belt extending from waistband, label: Chez Suzanne/Importations Montreal.
doylenewyork
 

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