Alexander McQueen: After Lee

[MulletProof]

Even though I still feel like a 2-3 year hiatus for the brand would be the most sensible thing to do, same for an exhibition of his F/W 10.11 exactly as he left it instead of a show for fashion week, I'm coming to terms with the fact that what he created wasn't just exceptional design but also a business that employed a lot of creative people that he chose, with whom he cemented an aesthetic and beliefs so clear that generated him all the references in fashion schools.. for me, what's gone is gone, there will be nobody like him just like there will be nobody like Coco or Cristóbal, to replace him would pretty much equal to bring him back from the grave cause.. everyone certainly conceives fashion in their own unique and personal way. However, acknowledging that replacement is different than continuity comforts me somehow, I'd like to think that having another designer continue his legacy as the head of his brand isn't that outrageous afterall, what his business and his admirers have in common is that they both know that McQueen wouldn't like to be forgotten or become a part of a certain decade or season, I think he'd like to go on for a lot of generations, represented by someone who can hopefully create a sincere and humble tribute of the aesthetic that marked us all, inviting new enthusiasts to discover what he did in life.. in business and non-sentimental reality, that's how a legacy is prolonged.

Having said that, they should leave things on the hands of his design team for a couple seasons, until the recent tragedy can be assimilated in some way so people can have a colder approach on how the brand will go on. I still keep telling myself that McQueen is dead every other hour, several times a day and I didn't even work with him or was a customer for that matter.. seeing a stranger bowing at the end of McQueen shows feels a little revolting for now and makes no sense, I don't oppose it, I just think such an immediate move feels.. well.. cruel. Sounds contradictory but in short, his business should be left on the team's hands and the project of searching for someone who can continue his work at full force should wait for a while.

 

[chloehandbags]

This raises many questions for me, mainly surrounding why this stuff wasn't selling. It's nice to sit back and mourn, review all the things about his work that was fantastic but why wasn't it translating to ringing cash registers? Was he simply an editorial darling at the end of the day, was all this vision and talent simply too much for our more, let's face it, conservative times? Is it honestly, really, truly about a bag and a shoe? Because if it is then the brand should be shut down before being distilled down to nothing, before it panders to the ignorance of shoppers who wouldn't get it if it came up and bit 'em in the a$$.

But even if it is, mainly, about a bag and a shoe, some people want to see the show, even if not that many of them then go on to buy the clothes; as the whole vision is what captures their imagination.

They then want a souvenir of a show they really enjoyed and that will often be a bag, or a shoe, or a scarf, or whatever, as they are far easier to wear and store than a gown.

It's not that people don't love the clothes, as well (they do!), it's just that, although they're beautiful, most of them don't fit into their modern lifestyles.

But, without the amazing clothes, the bag, the shoe and the scarf don't sell as well...

 

[Salvatore]

But even if it is, mainly, about a bag and a shoe, some people want to see the show, even if not that many of them then go on to buy the clothes; as the whole vision is what captures their imagination.

They then want a souvenir of a show they really enjoyed and that will often be a bag, or a shoe, or a scarf, or whatever, as they are far easier to wear and store than a gown.

It's not that people don't love the clothes, as well (they do!), it's just that, although they're beautiful, most of them don't fit into their modern lifestyles.

But, without the amazing clothes, the bag, the shoe and the scarf don't sell as well...

That's a very great way to look at it !

 

[chloehandbags]

i don't understand why people want it to shut down when Lee himself wanted his brand to go on after his death?
or I am missing something?

I know!

It's as though some people think that what they want, as consumers, is more important than what Lee wanted, as creator!

Aren't we supposed to have respect for the dead?

 

[chloehandbags]

That's a very great way to look at it !

Thank you, Salvatore.

I thought everyone would hate me for saying that!

 

[maxlinden]

you have the smartest comments on this entire thread

 

[chloehandbags]

I know that McQueen said he wanted his legacy and house to continue but I doubt it was under these circumstances, but how are we to ever know. I'm sure that like everyone, he thought he would grow old and probably have time to groom a designer and let them into his thought process.

That's a good point and maybe that is the case but, on the other hand, having read the Times article, I'm now wondering whether, as it had recently been decided that they had now; 'transitioned from being the name of a designer to putting in place the building blocks of a brand' he almost felt he could 'safely' go, without risking the house dying with him?

I guess we'll never know? But I think it is right to honour the last position he took on the subject, as that is the only thing we can ever know for certain.

 

[cygnenoir]

I agree that the obvious successor is probably someone - or perhaps a team - who has been working closely behind the scenes with Lee and has a good idea of where he wanted to take the brand creatively. I'm sure there are ideas and sketches floating around.

Another idea is that one of his close friends who might not be a designer (Annabelle Nelson?) could be a Creative Director of sorts and oversee the vision.

 

[chloehandbags]

you have the smartest comments on this entire thread

Me?

If so, thanks very much, max.

 

[D'Felipe]

I hope everyone understands that no one is implying that Mr. McQueen will be replaced because there is simply no replacing of a man of his magnatude and the team that has been behind the Alexander McQueen label will remain as it was when Lee was with us. furthermore if a designer is assigned as creative director, we must all prepare for an upset from whomever that person may be. We should ask ourselves weather the House of Dior was ever the same after Mr.Dior passed? No, likewise the house of McQueen shall never be the same, yet evolve over time; decades. When the hysteria subsides we will all watch what becomes of this and talk about the days that were when Mr.McQueen was still with us.

 

[farou7a]

I hope everyone understands that no one is implying that Mr. McQueen will be replaced because there is simply no replacing of a man of his magnatude and the team that has been behind the Alexander McQueen label will remain as it was when Lee was with us. furthermore if a designer is assigned as creative director, we must all prepare for an upset from whomever that person may be. We should ask ourselves weather the House of Dior was ever the same after Mr.Dior passed? No, likewise the house of McQueen shall never be the same, yet evolve over time; decades. When the hysteria subsides we will all watch what becomes of this and talk about the days that were when Mr.McQueen was still with us.

Thank you! finally, some sense.

 

[educo]

i don't understand why people want it to shut down when Lee himself wanted his brand to go on after his death?
or I am missing something?

ANd at the end of the day, emotions aside, fashion is a buisness and the whow must go on.

Because it isn't as simple as switching a coat or a bag at the beginning of the day. Or looking at numbers and "just continuing". What, you throw in the design team and see how they can steer the ship without a captain? Come on!! Sure, the design assistant is great, but she is great under McQueen's direction, who knows how she'll be holding everybody up on both sides as the top boss. I'm not against bringing the house back if and when the right person comes along, but i feel like they made this decision out of pure panic than respecting Lee's legacy. It's a CHEAP move, really f**kin cheap. Complete the collection and let the house rest until the dust settles and minds, options, and intentions are clear. Is that too much to ask?

 

[urs4ever]

I know!

It's as though some people think that what they want, as consumers, is more important than what Lee wanted, as creator!

Aren't we supposed to have respect for the dead?

YES. I was surprised by all of these comments.

 

[chloehandbags]

Because it isn't as simple as switching a coat or a bag at the beginning of the day. Or looking at numbers and "just continuing". What, you throw in the design team and see how they can steer the ship without a captain? Come on!! Sure, the design assistant is great, but she is great under McQueen's direction, who knows how she'll be holding everybody up on both sides as the top boss. I'm not against bringing the house back if and when the right person comes along, but i feel like they made this decision out of pure panic than respecting Lee's legacy. It's a CHEAP move, really f**kin cheap. Complete the collection and let the house rest until the dust settles and minds, options, and intentions are clear. Is that too much to ask?

How is it cheap to respect the wishes of a dead man?

Lee was proud of his team.

Why shouldn't they and his assistant be given a chance?

Plenty of assistants go on to become perfectly good (and even excellent) creative directors.

You say 'who knows' what she'll be like, but then you talk as if you already do.

For all you and I know, his assistant is the right person.

Why not wait and see?

 

[Label Basher]

I'm not against bringing the house back if and when the right person comes along, but i feel like they made this decision out of pure panic than respecting Lee's legacy. It's a CHEAP move, really f**kin cheap. Complete the collection and let the house rest until the dust settles and minds, options, and intentions are clear. Is that too much to ask?

This is what I was trying to say. I know by shutting the house people will be out of a job but unfortunately that happens. I'm sorry if I sound insensitive.

Does whoever inherits McQueen's 49% get any say?

 

[honeycombchild]

To me, an important comment was made earlier on the thread, that no matter what we all think should happen with the label, it was his belief and wish that the house lived on without him.

 

[ponytrot]

How is it cheap to respect the wishes of a dead man?

Lee was proud of his team.

Why shouldn't they and his assistant be given a chance?

Plenty of assistants go on to become perfectly good (and even excellent) creative directors.

You say 'who knows' what she'll be like, but then you talk as if you already do.

For all you and I know, his assistant is the right person.

Why not wait and see?

TRUTH!

I hate the fact that tfsers are crucifying the new designer/s before they've even began. My god, the crazy levels of indignation! For all we know, Lee himself could be incredibly disappointed with such a reaction - given that his expressed wish was for his legacy to continue.

Aren't we all being abit selfish here, in satisfying our emotional "need" for the deification of McQueen in light of his tragic end and thereby assuming that anyone else is an affront to him? The logic is very strange, and I think more emotional than rational.

 

[chloehandbags]

^ Couldn't agree more, pony.

Well said.

 

[ilaughead]

^I don't think the real concern is that any future designers will be totally incompetent, it's the fact that the house doesn't need to exist any longer, period. Other than being economical for the Gucci Group, what purpose does it serve to keep it open? Sure, one of McQueen's assistants can make a name for him or herself there, but wouldn't it be better for all involved if they left and tried to make it on their own, without the curse of worrying about keeping McQueen at the forefront of their aesthetic rather than their own taste?

In my opinion, the whole idea of a fashion house is pretty outdated. Why even bother keeping the original name (Balenciaga and Chanel, for example) when the designers are more successful when they ignore the bulk of the heritage? Ghesquière's designs are completely his own besides fall '06, and he very rarely even acknowledge Christobal's forays into minimalism and volume, which were the founder's principal legacies. Lagerfeld on the other hand has turned Chanel into a caricature (albeit an attractive one) that focuses on the superficial embellishments the designer used (camellias, tweed, pearls, quilted leather, etc) rather than her original intent of creating a new femininity.

Also, McQueen's wish that the house stay open is, though it sounds insensitive to say, entirely irrelevant. There are any number of talented designers who would love that their lines be continued after their death. It's ego, for better or worse, and there is no moral imperative to carry that wish out.

Keeping the house of Alexander McQueen open serves only Gucci Group's bottom line, and I still don't understand why this is so appealing to TFSers. For the most part, we're only viewers, not executives or even consumers a lot of the time. Why do we value monetary gain over artistic integrity?

 

[Squizree]

GOOD AND BAD NEWS!!

Alexander McQueen label will survive, say French owners

Alexander McQueen’s fashion label will live on despite the designer’s apparent suicide last week, it was announced this morning.

The decision to maintain the legacy of one of the most high-profile British designers will come as a huge boost to London Fashion Week which starts tomorrow.

PPR, the French luxury group with a controlling stake in the designer’s companies, said that it planned to build on the McQueen brand. François-Henri Pinault, its president, said: “The Alexander McQueen trademark will live on. This would be the best tribute that we could offer to him.”

Mr Pinault said that the decision to maintain the label was taken quickly after McQueen’s death and voiced confidence that the fashion house continues to hold “very important potential”.

Announcing his group’s results in Paris, he described McQueen, 40, as a “pure genius” and a “poet” who was “imaginative and original”.

“His art went beyond the fashion world. He had a great command of technique . . . he hid behind an armour of provocation,” he said.

“Fashion has lost one of its extraordinary people. He was one of the falling stars that comes across our generation.”

Sales of McQueen’s clothes and accessories are reported to have surged in the past week. Drapers, a trade publication, reported that sales of McQueen clothes soared 1,400 per cent.

Famous clients included Lady Gaga, who paid tribute to him at this week's Brit Awards, and Cameron Diaz, the actress.

Robert Polet, president of PPR’s Gucci Group subsidiary under which McQueen worked, said the autumn-winter collection that the designer was completing before his death would be shown at Paris fashion week next month.

Mr Polet said that he spoke toMcQueen a few weeks ago when the two men decided that “we have transitioned from being the name of a designer to putting in place the building blocks of a brand”.

The designer had told him: “That means that will be my legacy. That's something I will always leave behind.”

There was no explanation as to who would replace McQueen as the head of the company, which employs 180 people at various locations including a headquarters in Clerkenwell, Central London, and 11 boutiques from New York to Milan.

“Lee is of course irreplaceable,” Mr Polet said, referring to McQueen's first name, dropped from his professional moniker.

Gucci owns 51 per cent of the McQueen’s brand with the remainder now owned by the designer’s estate. It is not known who will inherit his share of the brand.

Mr Polet said that the Gucci group would use its combined resources to ensure that the label continues. McQueen’s companies had made losses from 2001 until breaking even in 2007 and making relatively small profit in 2008. They returned to losses last year because the fashion industry was badly hit by the world financial crisis, it was announced today.

The most recent UK accounts show that the companies had current liabilities of more than £32 million, which were underwritten by Gucci.

Sarah Brown, the wife of the Prime Minister, is expected to praise McQueen’s legacy when she opens London Fashion Week. A “tribute board” will be set up in the catwalk tent and the messages compiled into a book for McQueen’s family.

Gemma Ebelis, of the British Fashion Council, said that the decision to keep McQueen’s label was “great news” for the the country’s fashion industry.

“It is fantastic news for the talented team that he worked with for years and he was very proud of them,” she said. “It is a great British brand his work was like no other. He was a unique talent and one of the world’s greatest designers.”

The opening of an inquest into McQueen’s death was told yesterday that the designer was found hanged in his wardrobe of his flat in Mayfair, Central London, on Thursday last week. A handwritten note was found near by.

Police said that there were no suspicious circumstances surrounding the death, which occurred on the eve of the funeral of his mother, Joyce.

McQueen was named British Designer of the Year four times. His pieces never sold in great numbers, but he became one of fashion's best-known brands.

timesonline