Alexander McQueen F/W 2023.24 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Drusilla_]

LOVE the cutaway tailoring, it's impeccable and perfectly judged, just the right amount of drama for those looks.

 

[Phuel]

Very glad to see the consistency, confidence, uncompromising construction of Sarah coming into her own more and more these days, while still referencing McQueen the man’s most discipline of design, rather than his showmanship. She’s not a showgirl, but she’s a damn superior tailor. And I'll gladly take that.

Needless to say, the suiting and leathers are impeccably produced. The showpieces are tolerable— with its respectful references to past McQueen the man's design, but appropriately more in her style of disciplined craftsmanship than his defiant theatricality. Who can say— had he been around today, this could very well be what he would have evolved to. And that’s never a bad thing when the offering is so focused and tailored to such calm and deadly precision. And in a rare instance that most other brands can’t succeed at: Both women's and men’s designs are eqaully as strong, and compliment the other. Some questionably showpieces aside (those dresses with the puffy accents are horrible), really stellar presentation (loving the Manchurian Queue/Sade ponytail!). Must be the first time a Sarah’s McQueen runway show was so enjoyable. Might even watch it again LOL

McQueen the man’s fashionquake are of a bygone era— no point in pining for what is long long long gone. Sarah's studied, strictest of tailoring is the result of that defiant youth growing up and growing older, so gracefully.

 

[Machinegumm]

Ngl, this feels closer to McQueen than anything she's done in recent years. The tailoring is her strong suit, as usual.

 

[Drusilla_]

Very glad to see the consistency, confidence, uncompromising construction of Sarah coming into her own more and more these days, while still referencing McQueen the man’s most discipline of design, rather than his showmanship. She’s not a showgirl, but she’s a damn superior tailor. And I'll gladly take that.

[.........]

McQueen the man’s fashionquake are of a bygone era— no point in pining for what is long long long gone. Sarah's studied, strictest of tailoring is the result of that defiant youth growing up and growing older, so gracefully.

My feelings exactly - her greatest sin, in the eyes of the casual "give me spectacle!" 2d fashion observer, is that she isn't Lee McQueen. And she isn't going to deliver that spectacle or have his sharp edges, but imo she's stayed true to the core of the label he shaped, and carried it through the better part of a decade of the trend cycle being about the opposite of everything McQueen was (she never made her runways about hoodies, sneakers or logos). That's no mean feat, especially considering the events that led to her elevation to the post she's in.

 

[FashionFanatico]

very sleek & sharp tailoring. and sexy too.

But mostly i loved the hair styling of the male models &
the heavy jewelry....

 

[upzilicious]

She always gives the polish collection!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Beautiful cuts and tailoring, and the bead work is immaculate (look 41... stop it) providing a great foil to the leather, knits and suiting. The silver sleeved one errs into early Iris van Herpen territory which I'm not keen on. Looks dated.

Hate the floral. I hate that it insists on being so central in placement for most of this and so gimmicky in its overall use. Would love for an off centre placement in a beautifully draped/circular cut style column gown in a silk satin or jersey. The plain coloured padded looks and some of the silk taffeta/duchess (mikado?) offerings also confuse me. They're not in sync with the rest of the collection, and for the taffeta/duchess looks they highlight that the interns don't know how to clip their curves and press their seams properly.

That being said, it's far better than what they've been doing recently and it was a pleasant surprise after the strange collections we've been getting from them as of late. Wonder if the beading in this will spark a light and perhaps a reprisal of some of those gorgeous pieces from Spring 2012.