Alexander McQueen F/W 2024.25 Paris

[TianCouture]

Everyone's being too kind by associating this with McQueen and high fashion.

It’s hilariously outdated consumer-end Bratz/LOL Surprise/Rainbow High dolls clothing worn by nervous 14yos desperately attempting to look menacing. Poor children-- the poor child awkwardly swinging the Bedazzler bag as she walks cuz it's too big for her... LMFAO

The Outrageous Millennial Girls would NEVER be caught in dreck like this! The angst Rainbow High 14yos definitely would though bahahahah

 

[GoldenPetals]

Yikes. This is tragic.

And yet, I don't ever expect any successor to ever deliver what Lee did. And it's not because I'm trying to DEIFY Lee either. But that grotesque cynicism that defined his work is just irreplicable. It's too unique. Too individual. A Kering pawn in 2024 is not gonna do this house any favors. It will remain faceless for a long time I think.

 

[gallianostan]

That makes this sooo much worse than I thought 😭 just watched this vid (below) of Suzy Menkes asking him questions before the show, and his answers and their relation to what we saw are so... there's no fing way this is for real.

not a single coherent, intelligent or insightful thought in that noggin of his. what a farce lmao

 

[givenchypout]

no.

 

[Lola701]

Im not buying the « he is young » excuse.
When you are taking and esteemed brand, you have a sense of responsibility and history.
Nicolas took over Balenciaga at 26, Hedi Slimane took over YSL at 28, Riccardo Tisci took over Givenchy at 31, Olivier Rousteing took over Balmain at 25 and I can go on and on on designers who have took over houses while being younger than him.

For me the real insult here, is the tailoring. The foundation of McQueen is tailoring as all his clothes are very structured.

And if you are not confident enough on your aesthetic, concentrate on one thing.

Pinault is playing gamble with his portfolio. And at the same time, he has decided as a strategy to always go for the number 2. There’s always an incertitude with choosing the number 2. Arnault’s strategy is different…

We can call this generation of designers at Kering the « Frida Giannini’s Generation ».

 

[GivenchyAddict]

As someone who enjoyed Burton’s work a lot, I will remain silent.

 

[philophile]

Very hard house to design for indeed. A once in a lifetime talent is impossible to substitute.

 

[Alquimista]

The more I look at it, the more it reminds me of balenciaga. It's disgusting. It cancels out any good thing I saw in the clothes - not many but.

 

[philophile]

As someone who enjoyed Burton’s work a lot, I will remain silent.

I like Burton's work a lot too.

 

[Frederic01]

The problem with Kering is they always think they can do better with their designers and brands. They part ways with supreme talent in order to chase what exactly? Mediocrity?

It’s pure corporate greed and honestly does it ever work out for them?

Look at Nicolas and Hedi - both left on bad terms and are now doing so well at LVMH. Alessandro will be next I bet. He will absolutely kill it over at Fendi all whilst Gucci will struggle on.

Sarah Burton I hope she goes somewhere in the LVMH portfolio (Givenchy please!) and shows Kering what they really lost…

 

[tourbillions]

Hopefully those who hated Burtons' collections enjoyed this 😂😂😂

How to destroy a brand with 1 collection. This collection deserves to be in New York or Miami. Original McQueen was really just a cleverly styled Burton collection. Im not sure why she got so many criticisms for it when she stayed true to the codes of Mcqueen while infusing some of her own. It was always so beautiful and well-tailored but stayed true to Mcqueen's spirit.

This is like a little kid going in a cosplay convention in their halloween costume. Completely out of place but at the same time can't blame him for being given a task way above his skills. They really thought Mcqueen was just all about the angst and "ugly beautiful" things.

 

[musesoflevaquin]

I loved Burton's McQueen

 

[Scotty]

When you lie on your resume and somehow end up getting the job.

 

[gallianostan]

The problem with Kering is they always think they can do better with their designers and brands. They part ways with supreme talent in order to chase what exactly? Mediocrity?

It’s pure corporate greed and honestly does it ever work out for them?

Look at Nicolas and Hedi - both left on bad terms and are now doing so well at LVMH. Alessandro will be next I bet. He will absolutely kill it over at Fendi all whilst Gucci will struggle on.

Sarah Burton I hope she goes somewhere in the LVMH portfolio (Givenchy please!) and shows Kering what they really lost…

say what you want about bernard "the wolf in cashmere" arnault but at least LVMH is steadfastly loyal to their designers. the conglomerate invests in their vision and allows them the time, resources and freedom (mostly..) to execute their vision. and as long as the numbers are good (and you don't go on drunken antisemitic rants in parisian cafes) the suits leave their designers alone. they understand the importance of a long-term strategy in accelerating brand growth and image-building (see loewe). they don't have a short-term vision for their houses like the morons at kering. they don't make impulsive or recklessly short-sighted decisions either, like letting sarah go. and when they should be cutting liabilities loose (demna), they decide to keep them on instead. i could run a company better than these idiots

 

[tourbillions]

The saddest part is that Burton was always the one behind Mcqueen's menswear even when he was alive. She was low key a cut above the rest when it came to menswear and now its all gone.

Wherever she goes, ill be a loyal customer.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Damn. Even the Burton stans are dragging this.

 

[Nimsay]

Suzy was hilariously polite. Rather than acknowledging his statements about the inspiration. She immediately asked him if he was a fan of McQueen. Lol. Suzy has been in the game long enough to know what shes looking at so when she heard his nonsense explanations her red flags went up. I have no idea what hes talking about either. She helped give him some good soundbytes which is why Suzy gets the big bucks. Distorting the body - what McQueen piece has ever done that.

 

[Kimihiro]

Lee was first and foremost a tailor, so what the **** was that?

McQueen for me always had razor sharpness. The dark stuff was always incendiary. I feel it is a mistake to just see the house in a London art school angle.

 

[jeanclaude]

First of all...is this inspired by "The Birds" collection?? Really? Because it looks like "The Birds poop", looking at those fabrics amorphously wrapping the models bodies.
I don´t know what he exactly was watching that day, but it looks like a random ad appeared while streaming the video at Youtube...and he got lost on it.

The collection feels totally like McQueen through the lenses of Demna Gvasalia. This is what Demna totally would show if he were in charge of this brand. There is more of Demna here than what little remains of McQueen legacy.
Any resemblance to Alexander McQueen work is pure coincidence (and pure delusion).

 

[NoInvite]

I’m trying to think what is going on within the minds at Kering and its’ brands. Looking back in their past appointments have been risky and it paid off. They really took a gamble. Letting go of Maier at BV and went way younger with Lee, went 360 at Gucci with Michele, putting Demna in Balenciaga and taking a chance at Vaccrarello at YSL.

With their recent line up of talents seems all their choices were actually quite safe. Mr. Ancora at Gucci came from Valentino. Ok, maybe they want something tamed and focus on RTW. McGirr from JW Anderson so maybe something conceptual and compete with Loewe. Listening at the answers given in the clips with Suzy and 10Mag. I feel like he seems like a designer designer. The thing he mentioned most was “compression” and “The birds collection” to me it’s very specific. In comparison to another well praised debut at Chloé, Chemena describes directly more the mood and the feeling. To build collection is one thing but to build brands it’s another story but I don’t feel any clear message from this.

Maybe Kering knows exactly what will happen later and it will pay off in 2-3 years? Who knows?