Ann Demeulemeester F/W 2023.24 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[LadyJunon]

I hate myself for actually liking this collection...

 

[bc collector]

I liked it too, contrary to my expectations.
Concise, to the point, LDSS managed to keep his NSFW instincts at bay (well, eerhhmm, maybe a tad too many see-thru looks in total). But the dark romance of Ann was there.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Half of the looks are just copy-paste from Ann D.’s archives :
- the feather
- the horse riding boots
- the asymmetrical lengths
- the « string » blazers.


But something was new : the vulgarity.
Ann D. is about dark poetry, mystery…not sexuality. The gimmick of half the models covering their breast as if they were running from a sexual predator was hard to watch.
Terrible music choice also.

We won’t see Patti Smith associated to this mess fortunately.

 

[MulletProof]

you always know it's a male designer when the models struggle to walk.. ☕️

It's the kind of timid, apologetic, safe first collection from someone who knows he shouldn't be there and feels guilty about it.

And he can't design a top, hence the topless gimmick that Ann did in like ONE look, to make a point, not because she was incompetent.

Also, the f*cking music..

 

[Kennnnn]

I didn't know that this was Ludovic St Sernin's debut show for the brand, so I looked at it without preconceptions.

Surprisingly, I liked it. I was a big fan of Ann D in the late 90s, and there was a particular sweater of her's from '96 or '97 that I wore all the time, and loved for years. It was very nostalgic and emotional for me to see that he revived that particular knit (a kind of loose mesh knit) for this collection. I recognised it immediately.

This doesn't have the finesse or sensitivity of Ann D's work, but I like that he's taking the brand in a slightly different direction. It's been in a bit of a funk for some years now.

 

[GERGIN]

Definitely took me by surprise he didn’t get up to his usual gimmicks that he displays with his self named brand.

I think this is a decent debut for LDSS and hopefully he is aware of the privilege he is given for being creative director for such a cult label and will hone his craft after a few seasons with this Ann Demeulemeester.

 

[LadyJunon]

The gimmick of half the models covering their breast as if they were running from a sexual predator was hard to watch.

That comparison made me laugh more than it really should have.

you always know it's a male designer when the models struggle to walk.. ☕️

I was about to protest against this statement before I remembered that my favourite shoes in existence were Balenciaga's "Lego heels".

 

[perhydrol]

It's definitely not as poetic as Ann's work, but I must say, Squidward delivered. Of course the clothes are insanely yassified, but they are also relatively tempting. The silhouettes are actually graphic and there is some potential in them, there are wearable, great pieces. I just wish it was less vulgar.

 

[Phuel]

I hate myself for actually liking this collection...

I like it too. And feeling no shame for it.

It’s just Ann D’s signatures distilled to its most striped down of essence, and most easily-digestible. But also straightup gorgeous. The leathers and the leather boots are to die for (you know you’ll like them, Mullet). Very 1995-Ann, when she was more Nick Cave-sexual than Patti Smith-sensual, with all the leather jackets and leather shirts. in a pure black palette. Frankly, it’s that Ann D I’m attracted to, not the latter, at least for the men's.

That music tho… Just have the cast walk down the runway, with the sound of their heels against the parquet wood echoing, would have created more of an ambience than any music could.

 

[YohjiAddict]

For someone famous for selling briefs, this is wonderful! It could only be an improvement from the awful collections he’s shown for his namesake but it’s still very lazy “design” disguised as minimalism, the plain satin skirts literally look like the shifts women would wear below their clothes a few decades ago. The romantic dresses with those badly cut sleeves are the real eyesore for me though.

Look 7 is nice, more of that and less gratuitous semi-nudity and we might be talking. I do think it has the potential to sell well with the right marketing and that’s where he’s got some real expertise. I do hope he doesn’t model anymore…

 

[yslforever]

All the sateen skirts are just perfectly executed. They move incredibly well. I'll just keep them and the boots and forget the rest.

 

[Yohji]

Glad to see other people liked this collection. A pleasant surprise, indeed.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I have always been more of a fan of the culture and universe around Ann's brand than I have been a devoted wearer of her clothes, so I was very much aware that part would be gone with Ludovic de Saint Sernin taking the helm of her house. What he came up with is the easiest thing possible if you have a rich archive of a brand at your disposal that has a very specific vocabulary (that Sebastien Meunier would at times also interpret in a costume-y manner) - And considering that he is a relatively new and inexperienced designer, that was the smartest thing he could do, bastardize it with some of his skimpy touches and call it a day.

 

[Lola701]

Surprisingly I didn’t hate it. The styling was good and while expected it was fairly well executed. He put in the clothes what he didn’t get in the spirit of the house…

That being said, I was curious to go to the the brand’s IG…And OMG!
Mr de Saint Sernin is something else…

 

[ah ah]

Although I wouldn't classify myself as a fan of LdSS (the opposite actually ), I must admit that I was pleasantly surprised by this collection. However, if I may offer a suggestion, I would appreciate the sexuality being replaced with that dark poetry. I was missing this part a lot.

 

[Topaz]

The collection is okay, but this is mostly Ludovic FW23, not Ann D. The idea of this brand has always been very classy and poetic but kinda punk rock influenced as well, which is a very unique mix. This brand has always been about taste, especially taste in music as if romanticism met the modern art rock. Ann knew how to make a sexy look that would never look vulgar on Jamie Bochert or Erin O'Connor. But all I can imagine is Dua Lipa or Kendall Jenner wearing this collection. Even though the color palette is dark, it has nothing to do with Ann's artistic view - which was mysterious, experimental and cool.

 

[Machinegumm]

He basically chose easy mode. It's better than I expected, but Ann's poetry is completely lost. As with almost all designers these days there is no story, no worldbuilding, nothing to explore. Completely flat.

Jesus, their IG... how self-absorbed can one person be?

 

[vogue28]

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[vogue28]

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