Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2024 Milan

[susseinmcswanny]

Also I know maybe it's his thing but that hair and earrings combo is so Fing tired man. Try to be a couple steps ahead of the 21 y/o "fashion girlie" influencer that still wears blazers and little chunky acetate sunglasses

 

[lookatme]

I really dislike this generation of designers - the tasteful, Instagram curator gays.

 

[philophile]

I like it when Mathieu Blazy does "quiet" looks - monotone, subdued, focusing on the cut, the silhouette. I think that's when his sensibility and taste are the clearest. There's usually a good balance in his shows. Unfortunately there's not enough of that in here.

I mostly agree with you. When he does his thing, when his work is actually good, the looks might be quiet in tones, but loud in silhouettes, shapes and cuts. I love when designers add that playful touch to an otherwise boring, neutral/minimalist look. Here all the playfulness is missing, it's just quiet and underdesigned, completely lacking in imagination and creativity.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Showing once again that he's a one-trick pony. This "I can't believe it's leather!" thing needs to GO and he needs to DESIGN.

We've seen all these pieces a million time in his past collections, GIVE US SOMETHING NEW PLEASE. The dress with the gold shoulder (ss23, rst23) , the leather socks (fw23), the mens moo moo (fw23), mens trench/shirt/tie combo (fw23, pf23), the oversized caban (fw22, fw24, rst24) and so on. I get signature pieces but last time I checked he didn't invent the oversized caban or men wearing beige trench coats... Just lazy. His saving grace is that Bottega is great at fabric development so it gives you the illusion of beauty, but pretty materials don't fool me.

I don't think I'll ever buy his Bottega.

ps. what the hell are these shots with the empty mug? If that was meant to be cool, they failed. It's giving Pinterest board.
pps. they used to have the best casting of the industry, it's been a few seasons that they switched to very pedestrian options. Long-haired guy looks straight out of an Band of Outsiders lookbook...

 

[Alquimista]

I really dislike this generation of designers - the tasteful, Instagram curator gays.

THE JONATHAN ANDERSON generation of designers

 

[jeanclaude]

Pre-f*cked...too long, so many looks to say anything at all. Not cohesive, lots of other designers references.
And also, if you are going to shoot a model´s bulge...you gotta first check that model actually has a bulge to shoot.

 

[Cute]

Aiden Andrews!

 

[Jacque Marcel]

Some of this is really nice. The first couple of looks with the plaid and khaki is chicer Burberry than Daniel Lee's. Bottega works best for me when you have conventional shapes, style with lux materials.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

A little démodé. This aesthetic is really starting to drag. I do like that the last two look like lollipops, I needed a good chuckle today.





Pinterest, Vogue via Vogue28

 

[Grets]

I sorta get why people like the bags but the clothes look so heavy, bulky and stiff. Say what you want about the Olsens but they at least get that their customer needs to move.

 

[youthinasia]

I really want to like BV menswear but he still hasn't won me over. The fits are just not it. He gets it kinda right on one end of the spectrum with the tailoring but then on the other, the outerwear and more casual pieces drown the models. If the models are drowning in them, I can't imagine how they would translate to an average customer's build. Just make it work!

 

[avonlea002]

I like him but this is a visual diarrhea. I Just want him to stick to one theme/gimmick and create a collection around it. I know it's pre but he has the same issue when designing for main shows.

 

[gallianostan]

I really dislike this generation of designers - the tasteful, Instagram curator gays.

i'm as exhausted with them as you are. no f*cking talent

 

[Lola701]

I really dislike this generation of designers - the tasteful, Instagram curator gays.

While I get your feelings, I have to say that I like Blazy and Daniel Lee and I’ve came to like JWA at some point but they are the products of their environment.

What was pushed as the forefront of good fashion during the years of formation of those designers was the CDG, the Margiela, the RAF Simons, Yohji, Veronique Branquillo, Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, PRADA etc and etc…
Those were the brands and designers that had the cachet in order to legitimize a taste in fashion, or rather a good taste.
I think those designers were over-intellectualized by the press and when Cathy Horyn or Tim Blanks are part of your fashion education, you might be willing to fall for that once you become a designer.

I think design was intuitive for the generation before. I think when you look at Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Nicolas Ghesquiere and even Lee McQueen, it was very intuitive, about the cut, the silhouette rather than a mood even if they created the template for what fashion has become.

Designers who designs with intuition has tend to become « sexy designers ». When you go to La Cambre, you don’t want to work for Roberto Cavalli…
I’m sure Anthony Vaccarello didn’t fit in his taste with the aesthetic around.

And somehow maybe a TFS reader would turn out to be a « Tasteful-IG curator gay » designer.

What is interesting to me is that their voices is fairly new or fresh but more than that, they are technically skilled. There’s potential, there’s a hope for something more organic. And it’s weird because while I don’t like his work, I respect Olivier Rousteing because he has that organic, « total expression of creativity » side to his work.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Yes to womanswear. No to menswear. Nix the stylist. This could be stellar but he’s stuck in the gimmick

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

I like the long stripy dress look on Jesus-Aidan. It looks like a worm to me, or a depression cocoon, perfect for rolling down a hill in.

 

[philophile]

I think design was intuitive for the generation before. I think when you look at Tom Ford, Hedi Slimane, Nicolas Ghesquiere and even Lee McQueen, it was very intuitive, about the cut, the silhouette rather than a mood even if they created the template for what fashion has become.

This is so true. Intuition has gone down the drain in the past years and it has been replaced instead with calculated design to the last detail in order to maximize sales and profit. It's exactly the same in music and cinema.

P.S. There's nothing wrong with being a "gay tasteful IG curator", what is wrong is if you are that, plus a mediocre designer. Good taste is underrated and so is beauty. The (human) world is too ugly to see people posting more ugliness and bad taste, but even worse is to contribute to adding even more ugly and bland things.

 

[yslforever]

I sorta get why people like the bags but the clothes look so heavy, bulky and stiff. Say what you want about the Olsens but they at least get that their customer needs to move.

I find the bags "loud" and very in-your-face ... they have lost of sense of subtlety . Imho subtlety was part of the DNA as much as the intrecciato...

 

[ecnerretneerg]

The men’s dresses/tunics? are soooo unflattering. They look like foreskin.

I appreciate the artisanal aspects of BV, but his vision is void of any emotion or humor. Its very try-hard

 

[Kanzai]

^Ye and it's not even fun or innovative. Bro should take a course from Haider, Pilati or even the likes of Damir Domar, Demna,...because for a brand like Bottega, these men clothes are just so wrong, even Margiela himself had never made nonsense menswear. The moment Blazy pretend to be an iconoclast, he failed xD