Burberry Resort 2025 London

Hmm….
After looking at this collection, I wanna have an insight regarding the relationship between Daniel Lee and Jonathan Akeroyd.

This collection doesn’t scream « total creative control » to me and doesn’t look like the work of a designer supported by his CEO.

Sure some looks have the chic, modern allure of Daniel Lee but between the switch in photography, the weird inclusion of the classic « ugly check » (instead of the vibrant colors of Lee), some very « mall » or « outlet made » pieces, this feels like Daniel Lee on budget or Daniel Lee on restrictions.

The bags are great. Some of the coats are great.
We will see if there’s an evolution in terms of pricepoint but something is off about this collection.
 
Hmm….
After looking at this collection, I wanna have an insight regarding the relationship between Daniel Lee and Jonathan Akeroyd.

This collection doesn’t scream « total creative control » to me and doesn’t look like the work of a designer supported by his CEO.

Sure some looks have the chic, modern allure of Daniel Lee but between the switch in photography, the weird inclusion of the classic « ugly check » (instead of the vibrant colors of Lee), some very « mall » or « outlet made » pieces, this feels like Daniel Lee on budget or Daniel Lee on restrictions.

The bags are great. Some of the coats are great.
We will see if there’s an evolution in terms of pricepoint but something is off about this collection.

I feel the same.

They should have kept Jonathan Frantini for the pre-collection lookbooks, images were great. This is very poor visually, which is not helping this collection which is the weakest he's put out for the brand so far.

It is giving "this one better sell or else"... So strange - and quite disheartening - to see him that restrained.
 
I like the patch work jacket on Dana, but its screaming Ralph Lauren vibe. Is that a bad thing?
Edie Campell is giving me a modern Princess Diana vibe, very now, like Gucci now, influencer looking products, I can imagine love island watchers and wags wannabes wearing those shoes
But I hate the look on Liu Wen, so messy from the shirt ruffles to the necklace, not working here

Will's pants look so cheap and stupid, I mean dude, you're over 40, don't dress like a chav, and not in those colours
 
Daniel's previous collections were quite controversial in terms of how insanely ugly some of the pieces were, but at least they left some impression. This one is just tasteless, it leaves no impression and, while I know it's not Lee's fault, this will not help him save his position. It's giving outlet offering in the worst way possible, and I can't see it working with their current pricing strategy.

Some looks are nice, but even those good bits are dragged down by the photography. At this point, I hope they get rid of CEO first, just to let Daniel work.
 
More looks on Vogue Runway:
I like the direct copy of his BV

00013-burberry-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg00031-burberry-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg
Love the Burberry check tweed, very Chanel x Junya do faux Burberry, very cute and modern
00039-burberry-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg
Love this Flower trench, make me think of Spring 2009 from Christopher
00049-burberry-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg
I even like the fun fur, very his BV but chicer
00035-burberry-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg
The check trench has some nice zipper details
00018-burberry-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg

His weakest area is the pants section, I hate those useless pockets
Also Dana, Erin and Edie all British girls have short hair, quite interesting to be this focus, then they have Liu Wen for the Chinese Market. 00028-burberry-resort-2025-credit-brand.jpg
 
Why aren't we seeing these chic British city girls in Burberry ads?
Instead we have working class average looking people in very basic clothes with no design?

2244625-800w.jpg2245762-800w.jpg
 
Review by Sarah Mower
Auspiciously, it was raining-yet-warmish when I arrived to see the Burberry pre-spring collection in its Paris showroom. “On days like this” grinned Daniel Lee, “when you don’t know what the weather’s going to do, these are the kind of clothes you want to wear.” At the end of May, exasperatingly, it’s barely stopped bucketing down over western Europe since January. On the up side, the drizzle and leaden clouds outside created a relatable backdrop for contextualizing the clothes and accessories—and yes, the trenches—that Lee’s designed to arrive in stores from October.“Trans-seasonal, with a soft tactility” is something Lee said about the collection. “Everything has to look good on a hanger. Worth the money. Because ultimately we’re making expensive clothes we want people to want to wear for a very long time.”And very relatable they turned out to be, both for women and men: a combo of coolly believable London styling and subtly tweaked country classics, filtered through Lee’s intelligent sense of applied fashion, and his fanatical eye for codes and details.Let’s start with his patchwork peacoats, made in contrasting green-blue country tweeds, for both women and men. With the women’s look, there’s a beige-y gold minimal pie-frill collar on a Princess Diana-in-the-1980s cotton blouse. These two looks—as well as another mixed herringbone-pattern tailored coat with matching flares—jumped right out. There’s something hip and vaguely London to these pieces, but not so much that they’re fancy dress.“It’s giving a modern spin on British tradition,” Lee remarked, while I hovered over an immaculately cut yet plain-seeming brown wool men’s blazer. It’s part of Burberry’s remit to serve men’s suits; Lee smartly pushes a sense of Savile Row restraint, but not in a conservative stuffed-shirt sort of way. “It’s a modern interpretation of what you think King Charles would wear,” remarked Lee off the cuff. Was he thinking of the Monarch’s love of gardening and the environment when he made another suit, in something that looked like beige gabardine, which has a green tufty pinstripe, as if grass was growing through it?The surprising thing is also this: while Lee has set about making this collection in some senses look solid and traditional, in the hand it’s unexpectedly lightweight, even the leather and suede. “Because, even though we’re a British brand,” Lee observed, “predominantly we sell in hot places.”Another trick at Burberry is to bear intergenerational relevance in mind. A hard one to crack, but Lee’s showing signs of getting there. He pulled a soft-yellow diagonal-check georgette blouse with a double-layer bias-cut collar off a rack. “This is our take on the p*ssy-bow blouse,” he said. “It’s the kind of thing my mum and auntie would wear. I’ve kind of gone mad with lots of different colorways.”The realization is that each piece has to live alone and justify its usefulness and quality, but it’s the way you put them together that creates character. You can see that when Lee styles a cargo pant with a pointy mule, and tops the look with a polished chestnut leather belted moto-jacket. It’s just a teensy bit 1990s Spice Girl; Lee’s generation of childhood idols.It’s the same with the way Lee clearly takes delight in embedding secret branding signals—based on his deconstructing of the Burberry Prorsum knight logo—into products. It’s a case of you know, if you know, to look out for shield-shapes, horse bits, pennants, and chargers. He took delight in holding up a Knight bag, pointing out how two pieces of leather cut in the shape of shields constitute the sides of the softly slouchy shoulder bag, so the effect has a subtly off, asymmetric heft.He says it’s taken time to get down to executing this level of detail and control over the product. “Over the last 18 months we’ve been tasked with working on revolutionizing the whole product offer. It’s taken a minute. This is collection number six,” he said. “So I feel like this now feels like it’s fully there in terms of the brand and the detail.”I asked Lee how he copes with the stress and responsibilities of turning a big ship at a time when economic headwinds (never mind the rain) are notoriously strong. “It’s very much a team environment here. In my team, I’ve known a lot of people since school, so that’s very protective,” he replied. “I’m fortunate in my team that I have a lot of people I trust, and that I really respect the opinion of, so that really helps me feel okay even when it’s difficult times, when we’re going through a more challenging moment.”A completely renovated Daniel Lee Burberry store is due to reopen in Manhattan in October—that’ll be the first time New Yorkers will be able to experience his whole vision. The real verdict, of course, will come then, from consumers who get to see and touch this collection on rails in stores. If anyone’s anything like me, I think they’ll be tempted.
 
This collection is fine, but still, until the price point is brought way down to earth, regardless of how much Burberry check and tartan they put, this will not sell.

“Over the last 18 months we’ve been tasked with working on revolutionizing the whole product offer. It’s taken a minute.

A revolution in terms of design is not needed. A revolution of pricing strategy however, absolutely is. I don't know why HQ at Burberry refuses to see the problem. It's getting quite ridiculous at this point. Their RTW is priced higher than some of the Haute Couture Maisons and yet they still see fault with the design? SMH.

If they don't adapt to the market accordingly at this point, they will dig themselves into an even deeper hole than they already are in.
 
he is the ancora of burberry unfortunately. well made pieces but really not evolving much since his first collection. For their current pricing, all of these look like its from COS.
 
This isn't Daniel Lee at all - very very watered down aesthetics with obv references to Bailey's tenure which is such a cringe, if you're missing him so much then just rehire the men...Some of the coast and jackets are cool but then the price tag will be insane and we're back to square one. I'd honestly just sacked JA, rearrange pricing and let Daniel to do whatever the f*ck he wants.
 
This isn't Daniel Lee at all - very very watered down aesthetics with obv references to Bailey's tenure which is such a cringe, if you're missing him so much then just rehire the men...Some of the coast and jackets are cool but then the price tag will be insane and we're back to square one. I'd honestly just sacked JA, rearrange pricing and let Daniel to do whatever the f*ck he wants.
Obviously the people who wants Bailey back didn’t support him enough back in the day. Let’s not pretend that Burberry financial issues started with Riccardo…

I saw a man with a green Burberry coat and matching messenger military bag. He looked extra chic! Maybe he was a S.A. but he had a great style and it was convincing.

I almost want Lee to have his contract terminated, to negotiate the non competition agreement and hopefully comeback to Paris.
 
I almost want Lee to have his contract terminated, to negotiate the non competition agreement and hopefully comeback to Paris.

Ideally to Givenchy, no HC, just strong RTW and accessories and I’m sold (for a much more reasonable price I suppose).
 
Ideally to Givenchy, no HC, just strong RTW and accessories and I’m sold (for a much more reasonable price I suppose).
At first I wasn’t for it but I wouldn’t mind HC tbh. But in a much more intimate setting, 10 looks like Riccardo did. I’m always interested in voices that pushed a more progressive or disruptive vision of HC.
 

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