Céline S/S 2012 Paris

[Deleted member 7575]

Was expecting something stronger. These clothes are fine but they lack much of the oomph from previous seasons.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I absolutely hate clunky shoes so I'm really mad at Phoebe Philo right now. They have this awful effect of ruining a silhouette and make some very good outfits look very awkward. However I think we all know that soon everybody will have them on.
This being said, I think there's a lot of very interesting pieces that should be bought and kept forever. Especially excited about the jackets, they are the best of the season IMO. Also love the little touches of color, the cuts and the accessories. Except the shoes they are seriously amazing. The chokers especially are TDF.
Still, it's a pretty forgetable collection. I almost want to say an inspiration limited one.

I too see individual pieces that look outstanding ... from that perspective, I find this the most covetable collection she's done so far for Celine.

And I love the shoes--they're beautiful, especially the black with red platform. Probably are difficult to wear ...

 

[fashionista-ta]

I hope that won't but her in front with Mr. Louboutin ?

Looks like the sole is black, so His Redness can't complain ...

I wouldn't be at all surprised if this silhouette being called awkward is directional ...

 

[Flashbang]

Review by Cathy Horyn from nytimes

Phoebe Philo knows how to put a statement on the Celine runway. Everyone knows that by now. But the collection she offered on Sunday was a club sandwich of cleverly reworked ideas, with some others that didn’t have a particular urgency.

My main problem was that her military-style jackets with wide belts and matching skirts were derivative of old-school Yohji Yamamoto, as were cropped, wide-leg trousers with oversized black leather jackets. Also, if you recall, Miuccia Prada opened her fall 2011 show with rounded jackets; she, too, had wide belts dropped on the hips. It was only a year ago that Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons showed black fake-leather dresses with extra-wide belts. To be sure, there were many things in the Celine show to covet, especially the feminine white cotton shirts and, yes, those wide pants with a contrasting hem, and the new slim bags in a mix of colors.

Maybe fashion goes by so quickly today that everything becomes an unrecognizable blur, and maybe a new generation of shoppers is indifferent to this kind of debate, but Ms. Philo’s reputation is based on being her own person, so you expect more from her.

 

[Squizree]

Good heavens, a huge part of this collection is really quite ugly. The main problem I have are those giant belts. I'm not a Celine fan but even I know Phoebe is capable of more than just plastering on accessories to make the collection look trendy. Meanwhile, there are some seriously beautiful pieces. My favourite is this top. Absolutely rich and confident.

style

 

[purplethistle]

Disappointed. There are some nice pieces but the frumpiness of the jackets and coats ruins it for me.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Someone needs to have a heart-to-heart with Phoebe about her love for the Santa Claus belt... okay this isn't quite as goofy and Father Christmas as the belts in her fall collection, but it's still not okay.

Overall I think the good outweighs the bad in this collection. I preferred her signature two-toned leather pieces, and sleek silhouettes to the boxy coats and full pants, but looking at the collection as a whole it feels very cohesive and sort of works. I actually adore the clunky shoes, and thought they brought some fun to a very tame and reserved collection. The more I look at it the more it grows on me.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

I actually really like the clunky shoes I feel like they needed to come back, after all since they went out of fashion we ran through the spindly stilleto, to the flat, to the kitten heel, and now we're back. The clothing is also very nice, I love the floral jacquard pieces and the suits with the rounded sleeves, interesting to see her exploring something less streamlined and fluid.

 

[CholoChic]

^Many collections looks like Prada this season , but this looks fine.

 

[softgrey]

in general- i think the tops are the strongest bits...

Good heavens, a huge part of this collection is really quite ugly. My favourite is this top. Absolutely rich and confident.

i agree - love this top...
i would have liked to see more like this...
but it's basically an orphan...

*i have no words for what's going on on the bottom half...
shapeless and boring...
there- i said it...

 

[style_expert]

I do think Cathy Horyn has a point, some ideas of this collection are cleverly reworked

Celine SS12 vs Jil Sander Fall 07

style.com

Might not be exactly identical but it sure reminded me of these Jil Sander beauties

 

[HeatherAnne]

^ I actually thought of another designer when I saw them, Dries Van Noten.

style.com

 

[helmut.newton]

in general- i think the tops are the strongest bits...

i agree - love this top...
i would have liked to see more like this...
but it's basically an orphan...

I agree 100%. The top half of this collection was sublime. The video is testament to that. From behind, you could really see the craftsmanship.

The pants however were particularly strange. I'm talking about those cropped, swooshy pants. They were so awful. The proportions of that pant was strange (the way it moved, the way it sat on the body, the awkward length). I expected more from her especially given Spring 2011 where those loose pants worked so well with the silhouette.

Top half of this collection = perfection. Bottom half including shoes = disaster.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

Too plain for me, I dont know why.

 

[Lee MG Tisci]

.

 

[AgrenateD]

i'm glad Phoebe's starting to explore other shapes and proportions, you can only do so much with a trademark silhouette, even if deviating will vex some fans into disagreement (which is clearly what's happening with all these comments here, mostly clucking disapproval). i think what is bothering most people with this sudden new direction is what seems to be a lack of imperative; Celine is again, quite known to weave a sense of urgency into their clothes, and looking at these Watanabe-esque study of pleated shirts and curved sleeves that are then peplumed and dropwaisted and whatnot, the urgency has ultimately evaporated. it's as if this collection is more a consideration, or a forecast of what Phoebe can/shall do for her future creations.

having said that, everything is still essentially Celine in this collection, all the looks delivered in their crisp, unscrupulous language which i still don't tire of. but there are indeed some misses; the last few wide legged trousers look most cumbersome and will certainly not flatter people with normal built, and i'm not a fan of those orange-y graphic sweaters that vaguely reminds me of BCBG Max Azria Fall 2011. the sense of technique dulls down some of the separates.. but in time i'm pretty sure Philo will manage to make these look all the more covetable again.

and thus with that last sentence i realized that i am forever a Philo fangirl

 

[mononym]

i love this collection.

 

[Melisande]

I LOVE the shoes, I'd wear them with everything in my wardrobe.