Céline S/S 11 Paris

[holaloha]

only the last 5 final looks are good.

i agree! I didn't like this collection. The past collections were so much more crisp and wearable

 

[Label Basher]

Sorry but I just get who this Celine women is. Lots of this is terribly unflattering. Unless it's tailored in the stores I don't know who would want half of it.

Where are the accessories? Her bags are must haves. I expected more than was offered.

 

[Cicciolina]

hahah i dont think , Phoebe has years of experience and she is super talented and if anything many nyc designers have copied her looks .

The American sportswear look has been around a lot more than Phoebe Philo.

 

[LeRouquin]

I actually really really enjoyed this. I'm a stickler for Minimalism, but I do understand - and agree with - how overhyped Celine has been under Phoebe's direction. But it's also a meaningful hype because she really is incredibly talented with what she does. I agree with earlier posts that there's a bit too much white - I don't particularly care if it's a trend, white can be overwhelming at times. However, I really liked the indigo and burgundy numbers - such an unexpected color combination, but in my opinion, a very very pretty one. I liked the prints towards the end, but I wish this went more in the direction of the Resort collection. Overall I quite enjoyed it, however, and there's not too much I'd pick out as disliking.

Unlike others, I actually enjoy the looser silhouettes? The lack of strict tailoring looks really nice on the models, but I can't help but wonder how these clothes will look on women above US size 4..

 

[mikeijames]

well, fashion's a fickle crowd especially in this forum. nothing that much changed at the celine collection when one looks at it objectively. seriously, she's only been there, what? two years? not even? maybe a year and a half? and suddenly people are already turning on her? be it no mind. it's not like it'll stop the tidal wave of sales this collection will bring since it falls wholly in line with what she's established at the house allowing for her covering new ground with these colors and patterns. she's worked with color since those hot blue pants in her first collection. she's played with volume since the bulky sweaters and capes and coats of her first collection. the news in this collection, however, came from those wonderful leathers in the form of that great bordeaux skirt and that camel top. and, of course, those wonderful patterns that sit perfectly with the high-contrast color we have seen since THE FIRST SHOWS IN NEW YORK. if calvin can do bright red and jil can do hot pink, celine can do primary blue. and she did it so well.

style.com

 

[Deleted member 7575]

The American sportswear look has been around a lot more than Phoebe Philo.

Yes, but they've been doing it so poorly in NY.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

well, fashion's a fickle crowd especially in this forum. nothing that much changed at the celine collection when one looks at it objectively. seriously, she's only been there, what? two years? not even? maybe a year and a half? and suddenly people are already turning on her? be it no mind. it's not like it'll stop the tidal wave of sales this collection will bring since it falls wholly in line with what she's established at the house allowing for her covering new ground with these colors and patterns. she's worked with color since those hot blue pants in her first collection. she's played with volume since the bulky sweaters and capes and coats of her first collection. the news in this collection, however, came from those wonderful leathers in the form of that great bordeaux skirt and that camel top. and, of course, those wonderful patterns that sit perfectly with the high-contrast color we have seen since THE FIRST SHOWS IN NEW YORK. if calvin can do bright red and jil can do hot pink, celine can do primary blue. and she did it so well.

Uggggh, thank you!

 

[Fatalefashion]

Céline - S/S 2011 - Preview

 

[Uemarasan]

Going by the reputation that minimalism isn't enjoying in these forums, it's pretty clear that a lot of people are still clinging to their Galliano-McQueen cabaret wet dreams or their Ford-Versace sexy-fierce glamazon hangovers.

I, for one, appreciate the realism that minimalism forces us to face. Real women aren't only the dress-up dolls of gay men and fashion editors. Real women work, study, party, have fun, watch movies, take vacations, love, celebrate, live. Minimalism is the antidote to the excesses and ridiculousness of fashion, and I personally savor the chance to see a realistic proposal of clothes done with such quality.

well, fashion's a fickle crowd especially in this forum. nothing that much changed at the celine collection when one looks at it objectively. seriously, she's only been there, what? two years? not even? maybe a year and a half? and suddenly people are already turning on her? be it no mind. it's not like it'll stop the tidal wave of sales this collection will bring since it falls wholly in line with what she's established at the house allowing for her covering new ground with these colors and patterns. she's worked with color since those hot blue pants in her first collection. she's played with volume since the bulky sweaters and capes and coats of her first collection. the news in this collection, however, came from those wonderful leathers in the form of that great bordeaux skirt and that camel top. and, of course, those wonderful patterns that sit perfectly with the high-contrast color we have seen since THE FIRST SHOWS IN NEW YORK. if calvin can do bright red and jil can do hot pink, celine can do primary blue. and she did it so well.

Amen. Although I couldn't care less if this label sells a tsunami's worth, I admire the integrity that Phoebe Philo has brought to the house. She has stayed true to her initial design proposals and managed to tweak her vision and introduce new shapes, materials, techniques, and silhouettes. It is clear who the Celine woman is.

Thank God as well that she has limited the use of bags on the runway, the crutch of the vulgarly commercially-minded. Instead, she showed actual designs and not must-have accessories, allowing the clothes to speak for themselves rather than existing as a backdrop for balance sheet staples.

 

[Spiral1532]

Going by the reputation that minimalism isn't enjoying in these forums, it's pretty clear that a lot of people are still clinging to their Galliano-McQueen cabaret wet dreams or their Ford-Versace sexy-fierce glamazon hangovers.

I, for one, appreciate the realism that minimalism forces us to face. Real women aren't only the dress-up dolls of gay men and fashion editors. Real women work, study, party, have fun, watch movies, take vacations, love, celebrate, live. Minimalism is the antidote to the excesses and ridiculousness of fashion, and I personally savor the chance to see a realistic proposal of clothes done with such quality.

I thoroughly enjoy your posts, Uemarasan. You are the voice of reason here.

 

[VersaceLuva586]

Not my cup of tea! You can do volume in clothes without going overboard and making it unattractive.

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

I'm about to be 'fickle' too Mike but I'll venture to explain what I think those who liked Phoebe's last two collections are thinking this one has, to it's detriment, jettisoned. Furthermore, I think that the disguarded elements have actually been the secrets, the essence, of Phoebe's phenomenal success with the brand up until now. Is she to be applauded for taking what must be seen as a fairly big risk. Time will tell.

That it's less luxe and chic this season are points already made and fairly incontrovertible truths it seems to me. But there's another factor nobody has mentioned yet.

The essence of the success of SS10 and AW10/11 was to jump on with perfect timing to the minimalist wave and to produce looks that were inventive of cut, silhouette and fabric combination and spare of palette and without being overly embellished as we'd expect from any brand of minimalism but to combine that with yes 'wearability' but also a luxurious urbane smartness and - that which hasn't been mentioned yet - sensuality, sensuousness.

Yes always a million miles away from vulgar, always perfectly classy, Celine has, until now, been sexy under Phoebe. In SS10 the perfectly judged weight of the leather as it caressed the body; the fantastically flattering cut and weight of the trousers; the short hemlengths; the high cropped jackets; the wrapovers; the tight slightly sheer tops. That all created a classy sexy which made any Milanese or NYC 'bodycon' just look nasty by comparison.

In AW10/11 some of those themes again but also the slightly fetishistic nod but ever so subtle in the strict buttoning and the way the leather was worked in the outerwear; the combining of lace and leather and sheer; the thigh splits on a skirt or two.

Phoebe made minimalism interesting, luxe, chic and sensual. And to my mind her true skill with those two collections was the way in which she balanced the sensuality just perfectly so that the work was deliciously tasteful, always refined, but ever so sexy in that quiet understated way that just made it all the sexier. Sexy minimalism.

SS11 - It's just not sexy any more.

In the broad scheme of things I do like the collection - I like minimalism. I'll come to looks 23 and 24 in a minute though. But this collection might have come down a Calvin Klein or a Jil Sander runway. It didn't feel 'Celine' not only because it had lost it's uptown daytime chic, it's sense of luxury, but also because it was entirely devoid of sensuality. It wasn't an entirely prim collection - there was the odd bit of skin on display here and there but when that happened this season (ie look 32) it just seemed awkward, wrong, out of place, not sexy at all. Somewhere the magic sensuality has been lost.

Again, I do personally like the greater ease of this collection, how relaxed and effortless it is - although at times it bordered sloppy - but that's a very different vibe from the luxuriant classy urbane sexy of before. Will Phoebe's fans slouch downtown with her and chill in a baggier silhouette. Some of them will no doubt wear whatever she tells them right now but I can't see quite so much of this being paraded round of a Chelsea lunchtime. The age and place of the wearer seems problematically altered.

And I'm sorry but looks 23 and 24 are just beyond awful, offensive to the eyes. They call to mind very bad Tisci. I see how they connect up with the woven artisanal fabrics that had an Andean feel and the colour blocking that did cross over with Jil Sander -although I think Raf did it better - but that there were only two looks on the 23,24 theme tells me Phoebe wasn't too sure about those and for sure, they seem a light year removed from what has brought her success until now.

So I think the jury is out. That we might have just seen the beginning of the end of her dominant position. Yes fashion is fickle especially when a designer throws the golden baby out with the bathwater and doesn't deliver the essence of the brand. Celine has come to stand for sensuous luxurious minimalism. Which this wasn't. I think she'd do well to follow JT's admonishment next season and bring the sexy back.

 

[Uemarasan]

I thoroughly enjoy your posts, Uemarasan. You are the voice of reason here.

Thank you, Spiral What a nice thing to say, even if I'm relatively new here and still have much to learn (and have a slight bias towards avant-garde fashion).

Clearly, Phoebe Philo understands that the modern woman needs movement and ease and a certain degree of anonymity to be mobile so I understand where these designs are coming from: the loose shapes, the light fabrics, the quiet palette. She isn't doing minimalism for its own sake as an "aesthetic".

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I'm about to be 'fickle' too Mike but I'll venture to explain what I think those who liked Phoebe's last two collections are thinking this one has, to it's detriment, jettisoned. Furthermore, I think that the disguarded elements have actually been the secrets, the essence, of Phoebe's phenomenal success with the brand up until now. Is she to be applauded for taking what must be seen as a fairly big risk. Time will tell.

That it's less luxe and chic this season are points already made and fairly incontrovertible truths it seems to me. But there's another factor nobody has mentioned yet.

The essence of the success of SS10 and AW10/11 was to jump on with perfect timing to the minimalist wave and to produce looks that were inventive of cut, silhouette and fabric combination and spare of palette and without being overly embellished as we'd expect from any brand of minimalism but to combine that with yes 'wearability' but also a luxurious urbane smartness and - that which hasn't been mentioned yet - sensuality, sensuousness.

Yes always a million miles away from vulgar, always perfectly classy, Celine has, until now, been sexy under Phoebe. In SS10 the perfectly judged weight of the leather as it caressed the body; the fantastically flattering cut and weight of the trousers; the short hemlengths; the high cropped jackets; the wrapovers; the tight slightly sheer tops. That all created a classy sexy which made any Milanese or NYC 'bodycon' just look nasty by comparison.

In AW10/11 some of those themes again but also the slightly fetishistic nod but ever so subtle in the strict buttoning and the way the leather was worked in the outerwear; the combining of lace and leather and sheer; the thigh splits on a skirt or two.

Phoebe made minimalism interesting, luxe, chic and sensual. And to my mind her true skill with those two collections was the way in which she balanced the sensuality just perfectly so that the work was deliciously tasteful, always refined, but ever so sexy in that quiet understated way that just made it all the sexier. Sexy minimalism.

SS11 - It's just not sexy any more.

In the broad scheme of things I do like the collection - I like minimalism. I'll come to looks 23 and 24 in a minute though. But this collection might have come down a Calvin Klein or a Jil Sander runway. It didn't feel 'Celine' not only because it had lost it's uptown daytime chic, it's sense of luxury, but also because it was entirely devoid of sensuality. It wasn't an entirely prim collection - there was the odd bit of skin on display here and there but when that happened this season (ie look 32) it just seemed awkward, wrong, out of place, not sexy at all. Somewhere the magic sensuality has been lost.

Again, I do personally like the greater ease of this collection, how relaxed and effortless it is - although at times it bordered sloppy - but that's a very different vibe from the luxuriant classy urbane sexy of before. Will Phoebe's fans slouch downtown with her and chill in a baggier silhouette. Some of them will no doubt wear whatever she tells them right now but I can't see quite so much of this being paraded round of a Chelsea lunchtime. The age and place of the wearer seems problematically altered.

And I'm sorry but looks 23 and 24 are just beyond awful, offensive to the eyes. They call to mind very bad Tisci. I see how they connect up with the woven artisanal fabrics that had an Andean feel and the colour blocking that did cross over with Jil Sander -although I think Raf did it better - but that there were only two looks on the 23,24 theme tells me Phoebe wasn't too sure about those and for sure, they seem a light year removed from what has brought her success until now.

So I think the jury is out. That we might have just seen the beginning of the end of her dominant position. Yes fashion is fickle especially when a designer throws the golden baby out with the bathwater and doesn't deliver the essence of the brand. Celine has come to stand for sensuous luxurious minimalism. Which this wasn't. I think she'd do well to follow JT's admonishment next season and bring the sexy back.

As the creative director I highly doubt she would have sent anything down the runway she wasn't sure about.

I agree, this collection is not as sexed up as some would like, perhaps that's what blocking them. But I would like to think Celine is for the modern woman that does not dress to be sexy, only for herself. Unfortunately that disqualifies most women. Oh well, their loss.

 

[EasyCool]

I like it.

 

[gimmethatbag]

I, for one, appreciate the realism that minimalism forces us to face. Real women aren't only the dress-up dolls of gay men and fashion editors. Real women work, study, party, have fun, watch movies, take vacations, love, celebrate, live. Minimalism is the antidote to the excesses and ridiculousness of fashion, and I personally savor the chance to see a realistic proposal of clothes done with such quality.

But isn't fashion supposed to have an element of fantasy, especially on the runway? And plus, this isn't the kind of thing I want to wear. This isn't the kind of thing I do wear. As a real woman, I work, study, party, have fun, watch movies, take vacations, love, celebrate, live -- but I would enjoy my life a whole hell of a lot less if I was wearing clothes as drab and plain as these. I would pick my Galliano-McQueen wet dream any day.

 

[disco54]

But isn't fashion supposed to have an element of fantasy, especially on the runway? And plus, this isn't the kind of thing I want to wear. This isn't the kind of thing I do wear. As a real woman, I work, study, party, have fun, watch movies, take vacations, love, celebrate, live -- but I would enjoy my life a whole hell of a lot less if I was wearing clothes as drab and plain as these. I would pick my Galliano-McQueen wet dream any day.

Wow you wear clothes like Celine like clothes everyday, im sure there would be a laundry list of women who would want ur wardrobe. Yeah fantasy fashion is fine but at the end of the day , fashion is suppose to address the day to day needs of women and Phoebe does a smashing job at it!
I agree this collection is a bit over the top with the big volumed tops , but the woman knows how to cut a mean pair of pants !

 

[mikeijames]

That it's less luxe and chic this season are points already made and fairly incontrovertible truths it seems to me. But there's another factor nobody has mentioned yet....

The essence of the success of SS10 and AW10/11 was to jump on with perfect timing to the minimalist wave and to produce looks that were inventive of cut, silhouette and fabric combination and spare of palette and without being overly embellished as we'd expect from any brand of minimalism but to combine that with yes 'wearability' but also a luxurious urbane smartness and - that which hasn't been mentioned yet - sensuality, sensuousness.

again, we'll have to agree to disagree. phoebe brought in sensuality and sexuality in a very subtle, very celine way. it's those nubby gorgeous wovens that had no back, it's those flowy silky colorful numbers, it's those the dangerously low v-necks, and it's so much else.

(style.com)

and as for look twenty three and twenty four, it's easily one of the most sophisticated takes color we've seen all season. they got styled to preserve the spirit of austerity we love about celine, but tossed over a tomas maier bikini or an emilio pucci maillot caught in the fantastic sea breezes of an exclusive resort, those pieces would exude nothing but sensuality.

 

[birdofparadise]

I'm very intrigued by how 'expensive' it looks, if that makes sense, and yet the collection doesn't reference the traditional traps of luxury, it's not about that. There's an underlying sense of quality that holds everything together and I feel some sense of that Saint Laurent hippie, this incredible ease that belies a certain seriousness, a certain steel. I think these will be great in the hand, I'm interested in the fabrics, the leather looks serious.

 

[Uemarasan]

But isn't fashion supposed to have an element of fantasy, especially on the runway? And plus, this isn't the kind of thing I want to wear. This isn't the kind of thing I do wear. As a real woman, I work, study, party, have fun, watch movies, take vacations, love, celebrate, live -- but I would enjoy my life a whole hell of a lot less if I was wearing clothes as drab and plain as these. I would pick my Galliano-McQueen wet dream any day.

Why should fashion automatically need to have an element of fantasy? Fashion shouldn't be so easily circumscribed. Like I said, fashion isn't only the province of fantasy, and neither is it only the province of realism. I was criticizing the single-mindedness that fashion had to be some kind of spectacle. To limit fashion in that way is to do it a great disservice. So have fun with your Galliano-McQueen wet dreams (which I do enjoy), but allow for Philo spareness to exist with it side by side. Fashion should be permitted to be fantastic, real, emotional, cerebral, sexy, feminine, masculine, and minimal all at the same time.