CR Fashion Book #11 by Steven Klein & Mario Sorrenti

[Benn98]

The "up-and-coming fashion guard"?

Since her work with Testino in the mid 90s, Carine has not really "broken" a photographer ie taken one into the A list.... It's surely her biggest failing as an Editor and Fashion Director. Let's see if she does it now at CR.....



Meanwhile look who is bringing through the likes of Harley Weir and Charlotte Wales.... Before that Tyrone LeBon..... A bit of Double, a tiny hint of Dazed, but a whole lot of POP !!!

But this is precisely what she regrets. Fixating too much on the big names when she was at VP. Because let's be honest, she held much more clout there than she does now, which in theory went to waste.
And yes, I'll agree that she hasn't yet elevated a newbie to great heights (although I'm inclined to think Faena and Michael Avedon got much through her support), but the mere freedom, the fact that she's able to handpick the likes of Brigitte Niedermair, Dufort, Maule, and Cesar for her magazine is an accomplishment for them. She brought Pamela Hanson out of retirement and she's overall doing a lot more in her capacity than her peers. One can tell she desperately want to support them, but she's also still tied to brands with a starf*cker mentality to photographers - they just want the big names.

 

[lewak]

Dufort came out of the stable(s) I mentioned. Interesting to see if Carine's work with him outstrips Lotta's.....

 

[YohjiAddict]

I think that making a photographer into a star has much to do with finding a voice that fits the zeitgeist in some way and therefore has something to contribute to the fashion landscape. Marie Amélie and Olivier Rizzo who understood that perfectly made Jamie H into a star in less than a year. Meanwhile Carine cannot find a photographer that really makes an impact.

 

[Lola701]

But how can you say this magazine is like 'O', Lola??? No way, never.

I don't know if you remember that interview she did right before the launch of the magazine where she stated that the Magazine will not be like "O" in a way that it will not be only about herself but much more of a very classy book/magazine that will focus on new talents.

In a way for me, it is still like "O" as it is pretty all about Carine. IMO she failed were Babeth Djian succeeded at Numero. Numero is Babeth...It was created a bit in the same circomstances as CRFB but she managed to make it all about new talents and look at Numero now..

As for the big photographers thing, to Carine's defense, she and her team helped a new league of photographers to get big. Even if the majority got their start at Numero, Dazed or The Face, they became stars when their were choosed to work at VP. Mert & Marcus career would have never been what it is today if they didn't worked with VP.

IMO, Carine's aesthetic and references are maybe too overwhelming for a new photographer. MAS used to work with Guy Bourdin, so she has that understanding of a "photographer's way". Carine is really much more obsessed about clothes IMO.

Even if she didn't really made a new star in the photographers world, she discovered models, Benjamin Bruno and thanks to her, Riccardo Tisci got Givenchy.

 

[Benn98]

IMO Carine's aesthetic and references are maybe too overwhelming for a new photographer. MAS used to work with Guy Bourdin, so she has that understanding of a "photographer's way". Carine is really much more obsessed about clothes IMO.

You're so very right, Lola! I am detecting that with most of the new guard there's this preoccupation with agency and aesthetic. They come across as a markedly relentless with their aesthetic which I get to some extent. But this is not the norm for fashion photographers starting to carve out a reputation. As much as Carine should pay closer attention to the style of the photographer she's working with, they're also supposed to expand their style a bit more to accommodate her brand. After all, it's a collaborative effort with storytelling as their common emphasis. What I constantly see with CR FB's edits is this power struggle between styling and photography. It's almost as though one is constantly vying for more traction than the other. There's simply no cohesion.

 

[gbam]

Steven Klein - Photographer
Carine Roitfeld - Editor
Ward Stegerhoek - Hair Stylist
Kabuki - Makeup Artist
Andrea Stanley - Set Designer
Naomi Yasuda - Manicurist
Lily Rose Depp - Model


models.com

 

[Lola701]

That third photo could have been a bold cover!
I also love the Marc Jacobs's hat pic.

Seriously, Lily can teach one or two things to Kendall, Gigi, Bella and even to some experienced legit models. She needs to work on her "im always pissed" face tho.
Cute ed!

 

[Benn98]

The images are fine, nothing special. It's a pity she doesn't have enough range.

I'm keen to see what's been done with the rest of the cast.

 

[russianelf]

lmfao that is one big forehead

 

[Scotty]

CR Men's Preview


crfashionbook.com

 

[helligirl]

Ph: Mario Sorrenti


crfashionbook.com

 

[Benn98]

I thought CR Men's Book is a separate edition? These can be posted in the Men's thread, surely.

Really keen to see this issue or at least a review. I see Kirsten Owen above, Carolyn, Angela Lindvall(?) and Malgosia. These girls were at the top of their game in 1999, but no need to give Malgosia more shots.

I'm now thinking that Sorrenti maybe wasn't a good choice for the theme. Maybe someone stronger was needed. And right now he's very lazy. Why are we seeing studio shots??

 

[KateIsGr8]

Anyone willing to give a review?

 

[June]

^Better late than never!

Lily-Rose Depp (14 pages)
Photographer: Steven Klein
Hair: Ward
Make-up: Kabuki
Model: Lily-Rose, obv
She is also intervieved by Natalie Portman.

Faces (10 pages)
Photographer: Richard Burbridge
Hair: Ward
Make-up: Peter Philips
Models: Nadine Leopold, Marjan Jonkman, Hannah Ferguson, Jessie Bloemendaal

Beauty Dot Com (4 pages)
An article by Jean Godfrey-June with an old Kate Moss photo from September 1999 (shot by Richard Burbidge for Harper's Bazaar) and a photo of Kirsten Dunst on the set of "The Virgin Suicides"

Margiela (14 pages)
Photographer: Bibi Corneja-Borthwick
Hair: Didier Malige
Make-up: Tanako Makase
Models: Yana Van Ginneken, Nadine Leopold

Carrie Bradshaw (10 pages)
Photographer: Sebastian Faena
Hair: Tina Outen
Make-up: Fulvia Farolfi
Model: Chayse McMullan

Sex On The Precipice (4 pages)
An article by Amy Sohn with photos of Nicole Kidman in "Eyes Wide Shut" and Shalom Harlow as she closes Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1999

Long Days & Longer Nights (20 pages)
All photos are from the 90s.
Photographer: Bruce Weber
Celebs: Natalie Portman, Leonardo Di Caprio, Matt Damon, Ben & Casey Affleck, Matthew McConaughey, Patricia Arquette, Drew Barrymore, Jamie Walters, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Brad PittQueen Latifah & The Boys Choir of HarlemJeff Buckley, Charlie Sexton, Mark WahlbergRiver Phoenix

Plush (14 pages)
Photographer: Terry Richardson
Hair: Ward
Make-up: Frank B.
Models: Grace Hartzel, Selena Forrest

Helmut Lang (34 pages)
Photographer: Mario Sorrenti
Hair: Akki
Make-up: Kanako Takase
Models: Malgosia Bela, Angela Lindvall, Guinevere Van Seenus, Kirsten Owen, Amy Wesson, Sasha Komissarov, Hiandra Martinez, Carolyn Murphy, Cara Taylor, Alek Wek, Adgsen Love, Hannelore Knuts, Michele Hicks

Red Carpet 1999 (8 pages)
Photographer: Petra Collins
Stylist: Ron Hartleben
Hair: Clyde Haygood
Make-up: Grace Ahn
Models: Kim Kardashian West (as Lil' Kim, Pamela Anderson), Jasmine Sanders (as Rose McGowan, Gwyneth Paltrow), Ho Yeon Jung (as Madonna, Pink, Céline Dion)

Logomania (10 pages)
Photographer: Brigitte Niedermair
Stylist: Ben Perreira
Hair: Tina Outen
Make-up: Thom Walker
Model: Natasha Poly

Guess (10 pages)
Photographer: Pamela Hanson
Creative Direction: Julia Restoin Roitfeld
Fashion: Ben Perreira
Hair: Didier Malige
Make-up: Grace Ahn
Model: Amina Blue

McQueen (18 pages)
Photographer: Steven Klein
Hair: Julien D'ys
Make-up: Peter Philips
Model: Lara Stone

 

[June]

CR Men's Book

Prince (4 pages)
Photographs and words: Steven Klein
Celeb: Prince, obv

Live Free Tie Hard (20 pages)
Photographer: Terry Richardson
Hair: Ward
Make-up: Frank B.
Models: Alpha Dia, Justin Theroux, Chayse McMullan, Alexander Dipersia, Bonner Bolton, Blanca Padilla, Massima Desire
This also contains an Interview of Seth Meyers with Justin Theroux, a text about Alexander Dipersia by Sarah Fones and a text about Bonner Bolton by Mark Jacobs

Pink, Smooth, Plump, And Juicy (12 pages)
Photographer: Guy Aroch
Hair: Ron Hartleben
Make-up: Tom Pecheux
Models: Hannah Ferguson

Willem Dafoe: The Disappearing Act (6 pages)
Photographer: Cristiano Morroy
Stylist: Ben Perreira
Hair: Holly Mills
Grooming: Miguel Lledo
Celeb and words: Willem Dafoe

No Sweat (14 pages)
Photographer: Robbie Fimano
Stylist: Ben Perreira
Hair: Thom Priano
Grooming: Marla Belt
Model: Matthew Noszka

p*rn's Future (2 pages)
Artwork: Kalen Hollomon
Words: Adrian Nathan West

All Tied Up (2 pages)
Artwork: Kalen Hollomon
Words: Natasha Stagg

Which Way Is Prenup? (2 pages)
Artwork: Kalen Hollomon

Beyond Alpha (2 pages)
Artwork: Kalen Hollomon
Words: Aimee Walleston

Other Man (14 pages)
Six actors and directors on their creative reflexes
Photographer: Brigitte Lacombe
Stylist: Michael Vendola
Grooming: Erica Sauer
Actors/Directors: Rami Malek, Tracy Letts, Karl Glusman, Bennett Miller, Tahar Rahim, Derek Cianfrance

Living John Malkovich (6 pages)
Photographer: Terry Richardson
Stylist: Ron Hartleben
Words: Anthony Kaufman
Hair: Ward
Grooming: Frank B.
Celeb: John Malkovich

 

[Benn98]

^Better late than never!

Indeed! Thanks ever so much for taking the time to post this, June! It's very detailed, and I like that!
I normally purchase CR FB when the Vogues are bad (which seems more often than not lately), because this magazine is just too pricey.
On the one hand I'm dead keen on getting this because the review alone paints such a clear conception of the theme. But on the other hand I not only see Terry, but Bruce Weber as well. Will have to wrestle with that.

That said, this is the magic of Carine and something she will always lord over the rest! She's easily the ONLY EIC out there to lay out a properly themed edition from front to back, and that's bearing the indies in mind as well. If you were of age in 1999 then you'll find that each and every feature posted in that review (except Plush) bears a distinct relevance to the year. I hope McQueen and Margiela will feature at least some archival pieces. But why not take it one step further and delve into the vault of Martine Sitbon and Nicole Farhi?