Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

The no-carbs rules on premises did not pay off for these guys… sigh
Oh well…
 
Oh the duck hat as a freeby…. The overstock needs to end up somewhere now that they stopped burning their un-sold everything.
 
The British luxury brand's share price hit the lowest level in 11 months yesterday, after brokers said they were "more cautious on Burberry due to risks to its turnaround in the current environment". City bank UBS also warned the company's turnaround may end up having to cost more in order to succeed - FT, 4 Oct 2023
 
They really need to put on two shows with more products. The one show isn’t cutting it, especially with the amount of products offered. Where’s the variety? The whole co-ed concept is lazy and tired at this point.
 
They really need to put on two shows with more products. The one show isn’t cutting it, especially with the amount of products offered. Where’s the variety? The whole co-ed concept is lazy and tired at this point.
The issue is that London Fashion Week decided to go co-ed during the pandemic. That's why lots of London's menswear designers haved moved their shows to Milan and Paris in 2022 and 2023.
 
Atelier New York is currently having a 50% off flash sale on all the Burberry FW collection.
 
Its becoming obvious Kering hardly relies on a CD. it seems like the CD Directs and they have a well fleshed out team that makes it all happen. Its clearly a group effort.

Burberry is only at Atelier bc of Riccardo. Lets get real. They must be in some sort of contract and may have been forced to buy AW23.

Lee talking crap about Kering is delusions. Burberry will throw him out faster than Kering. He seems out of touch with reality. He prob gets angry the bosses want money like most confused people these days.
 
SSense sent out an eblast this morning spotlighting Burberry Fall 2023. The banner photo of Kit Butler in a trench coat is almost convincing, but when you scroll down to the clothes, well, let's just say I find it impossible to imagine Burberry by Daniel Lee recapturing the glory days of Bailey's Prorsum. The designs are nowhere close to compelling, it doesn't feel distinctive at all, and the things that do stick out (bird prints and slanted checks) are not desirable and won't be memorable in a good way. And that's before you get to the price point (figures in CAD) --

- $1200 for a 100% polyester long-sleeve t-shirt with an underwhelming macro swan print (made much uglier by 'THE WINDS OF CHANGE' in huge letters like some kind of Raf/Demna conceptual disaster)

- $2875 for a wool-polyester turtleneck with diagonal check -- the design isn't so bad, but the insubstantial knit and mediocre materials are embarrassing, and the price is nearly on par with Gabriela Hearst's flagship super-chunky hand-knit cashmere sweaters

- $970 for a t-shirt, this time with a doubled swan print that is simultaneously pretentious and horribly ugly due to the colour scheme of crimson red with a weird indigo tone (if they want to charge this much for a tee, couldn't they at least embroider something on it or slap on a leather appliqué or some rhinestones? It is not an exaggeration to say I have seen more complicated and luxurious t-shirt designs at Abercrombie and Club Monaco)

- $1600 for floral-patterned acrylic fleece lounge pants in same ugly purple + red, it looks exactly like something you'd see on a rack at Winners or in the discount bin at Mountain Equipment Co-op

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Clipboard02.jpg
Source for images: SSENSE <[email protected]> "Burberry FW23 Collection" (Oct 26, 2023, 8:23 AM)
 
SSense sent out an eblast this morning spotlighting Burberry Fall 2023. The banner photo of Kit Butler in a trench coat is almost convincing, but when you scroll down to the clothes, well, let's just say I find it impossible to imagine Burberry by Daniel Lee recapturing the glory days of Bailey's Prorsum. The designs are nowhere close to compelling, it doesn't feel distinctive at all, and the things that do stick out (bird prints and slanted checks) are not desirable and won't be memorable in a good way. And that's before you get to the price point (figures in CAD) --

- $1200 for a 100% polyester long-sleeve t-shirt with an underwhelming macro swan print (made much uglier by 'THE WINDS OF CHANGE' in huge letters like some kind of Raf/Demna conceptual disaster)

- $2875 for a wool-polyester turtleneck with diagonal check -- the design isn't so bad, but the insubstantial knit and mediocre materials are embarrassing, and the price is nearly on par with Gabriela Hearst's flagship super-chunky hand-knit cashmere sweaters

- $970 for a t-shirt, this time with a doubled swan print that is simultaneously pretentious and horribly ugly due to the colour scheme of crimson red with a weird indigo tone (if they want to charge this much for a tee, couldn't they at least embroider something on it or slap on a leather appliqué or some rhinestones? It is not an exaggeration to say I have seen more complicated and luxurious t-shirt designs at Abercrombie and Club Monaco)

- $1600 for floral-patterned acrylic fleece lounge pants in same ugly purple + red, it looks exactly like something you'd see on a rack at Winners or in the discount bin at Mountain Equipment Co-op

View attachment 1239483

View attachment 1239484
Source for images: SSENSE <[email protected]> "Burberry FW23 Collection" (Oct 26, 2023, 8:23 AM)
This looks like a Vetements collection. So basic, so unclassy, so uncreative and purely awful.
 
I'm still mystified by some of his Burberry choices tbh, Christopher Bailey he is not - I imagine this was meant to be a shot in the arm to THE great classic English house but it ends up looking like some cartoon. I imagine the thought was a similar approach (bright colours, 'modern' styles) worked at Bottega so why not here but duck print trousers? This is not any better than Tisci's 'embrace the chav' years.
 
I know time has that capacity of making us romanticize everything but aren’t going to pretend that Bailey left Burberry on a high note.
The reality is that while the Milan years were great, there was a shift to a more casual attitude in HF that also troubled Burberry.

One of the challenge of Bailey the last few years of his tenure was to introduce a more modern and casual attitude for Burberry because precisely, that particular London look of skinny pants with derby shoes, printed shirts and good coats for men or belted dresses with trench coats for women didn’t felt fresh anymore.

I think Riccardo understood something about London, it multiculturalism and it street edge, that didn’t necessarily clicked with Burberry. But I think Lee understand Burberry and a British attitude. It’s quirky, it has attitude. He is a good designer and the right person for this, I’m really convinced. I think he understands something about the way people wants to dress and look in 2023. But those aren’t the only elements that will be relevant for the success of his Burberry.
 
Problem with Riccardo's vision belong to many collection in one presentation. Definitely suits pushed him to glad everyone group of customers. If their then allowed him to edit some of his collections at the time, it is exist some good silhouettes.
 

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