Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

I wonder how these people deal with their partners being clearly on drugs (both Bolle for Daniel and Calisti for Ancora)...
Do you think they just pretend they don't know? They ignore the situation? They all snort? Who knows...
they know the friends circle know office people around know ..... Bolle lives in his own bubble but people try to warn him etc but he is in love so it seems as he deals with the drama and brushes it off i understood ad the. don't live in same country and city so thing happen miles away.
 
The Burberry website looks like it's slid back to the Bailey years. I don't feel Daniel Lee on there at all any more. That new shoot by Alasdair Mclellan is giving UK Coach! Rainclouds are definitely gathering!
 
The only way to make this brand survive is to put the trench and the check back into the fashion conversation and the runway shows. No one is gonna buy cheap tacky duck print baggy pants, even if the Price tag is 10 bucks instead of 3000. People Who buy Burberry want easy elevated outerwear with no fuss and quirk. Go for the Bailey Route and build your own fashion proposition on the trench and it's variations: one season with rock&roll trench with spikes and studs, next season aviator style trench with fur collars and military inspired details, next season tye dye trench and so on.
 
I think there’s this over-romanticized vision of what was Burberry under Christopher Bailey in terms of commercial reality.
Those great runway collections were the tip of the iceberg that managed to keep Burberry part of the fashion conversation but what was selling was Burberry Brit, the line that was largely distributed.
Burberry Brit was very much wardrobe inspired with Burberry basics and the line was shifting in terms of options of products regarding of the focus of the season on the mainline.
The problem was that (and it was the same for Dolce & Gabbana) at some point, the price point difference between Burberry Brit, Burberry Prorsum and Burberry London became more and more blurred.

And Tbh, I don’t think the mass realized that because when they were doing the campaigns with Emma Watson by Testino, it was basically the same setting as for all the lines. You could have the Burberry Prorsum, London, Brit and Sport shot by Testino and you could only distinguish the lines per products.
Maybe Burberry needs a stronger merchandising team or a merchandising team that speaks with the designer and maybe the styling of the should be more formulatic. Bailey was about the belted silhouette and strong focus on outerwear and seasonal prints. But it will always come down to the prices.

A Burberry basic peacoat shouldn’t cost above 1K. A trench coat and a parka shouldn’t cost more than 1600.
Literally the price point of the house should be between 300 and 5K. They are not doing exotic skin anymore so they can’t charge 10K for an alligator coat like the past.
 
just checked out the website, it's impossible to order anything online. The offer is far more basic but all the better for it tbh, just all the stuff that a Burberry client might be looking for. I'm not sure it can stay like this for ever, there has to be a more directional proposition at one point, but right now it all looks good.
Daniel Lee is a great designer but I don't think he was the right choice for his brand.
 
The store offering looks nothing like the clothes that we saw on the runway, which is definitely a sign that Daniel Lee is slated to leave Burberry. The basic proposition should placate the customers for a while, but it definitely can't be a long-term solution for the brand.
 
He has a frivolity in him that would clash with a brand like Jil Sander but work for Fendi.
I think maybe Stefano Pilati could work for Jil Sander actually.
I feel like Francisco Costa or Narciso Rodriguez are too mature, too grown in their style for the current direction of Jil Sander.

Don’t kill me but he may also snatch Maximillian Davis from Gobbetti.

I would love a Japanese designer at Jil Sander tbh.

After the trainwreck the Meyers have taken Jil Sander into, I think a designer with a mature point of view would be just what this house needs.

Sander's market niche is a very mature customer with and the Meyers were obviously chosen by Renzo Rosso so that they make it a cool brand young customers want. They probably managed to sell logo T-Shirts, accessories and sneakers to that customer, but the collection itself couldn't be further away from Jil Sander. The fact they turned it into a Milan's version of Proenza Schouler is an insult!

I’d be totally fine if Naoki Takizawa succeeded them if we were to name a Japanese designer, otherwise yes, Narciso Rodriguez (my dream choice), Patrick van Ommeslaeghe or Lucas Ossendrijver. Certainly noone from Camp Phoebe and noone from the young crop of designers - I also don’t think Pilati’s sensibility is aligning very well with Jil Sander's - Especially to me as a German who loves the values this house stands for!

Hedi was in negotiations with Patrizio Bertelli to take Jil Sander after leaving YSL in 1999. The thought of him going that route instead of his eventual choice with Dior makes for an interesting thought - He’d be by far too expensive for them these days but purely from an aesthetical perspective, I would be up for that, too.
 
^ ah hahha yes, well to be honest we all know they won’t take him to Fendi so Jil is the only option (unless there’s element of surprise)…
 

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