Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

[Olaffo]

If Sarah Burton won’t be snatched to Givenchy I’m pretty sure she’ll end up in Burberry. It’s British brand, would be a great fit for Catherine, Princesses of Wales and soon to be Queen, with emphasis on sharp tailoring and desirable products. She’d do wonders with military emphasis of trench etc.

 

[thismortalcoil]

In theory, shifting the price point is probably what is needed to regain sales, however, at this point I find it hard to imagine Lee being cool with now having to now use cheaper fabrics or manufacturing or both in order to maintain healthy margins. It’s a very different mindset having carte blanche and having the suits forcing you to use cheap polyester instead.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

My main concern with Daniel Lee at this point is that he seems to have misinterpreted Burberry: in multiple interviews, he stated that he envisioned Burberry as an “outdoors” brand. “Outdoors” may have been the original roots of Burberry, but it is not what ultimately resonated with consumers under Bailey, and not what modern audience wants from Burberry. If I want British outdoorsy wear, I’d go to Barbour, not Burberry. It is also laughable to try to command luxury price for such category/style.

I mean, his idea of "outdoors" was extremely questionable. It was as outdoorsy as a hunting-themed Galliano collection.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

In theory, shifting the price point is probably what is needed to regain sales, however, at this point I find it hard to imagine Lee being cool with now having to now use cheaper fabrics or manufacturing or both in order to maintain healthy margins. It’s a very different mindset having carte blanche and having the suits forcing you to use cheap polyester instead.

I agree. And there is also the question of whether or not Schulman sees Lee as an asset.

Frankly, his track record isn't great.

Speaking broadly...

Yes, Burberry may have had the wrong strategy but a huge part of why it didn't work is because of Lee.

I didn't think he should have been hired in the first place (his last collection at Bottega was a huge red flag) and I don't think it makes sense to keep him now.

 

[LadyJunon]

If Sarah Burton won’t be snatched to Givenchy I’m pretty sure she’ll end up in Burberry. It’s British brand, would be a great fit for Catherine, Princesses of Wales and soon to be Queen, with emphasis on sharp tailoring and desirable products. She’d do wonders with military emphasis of trench etc.

I never thought about that Burton for Burberry. She would be a really good fit for an Edwardian-tinged bourgeoise take on the brand.

In theory, shifting the price point is probably what is needed to regain sales, however, at this point I find it hard to imagine Lee being cool with now having to now use cheaper fabrics or manufacturing or both in order to maintain healthy margins. It’s a very different mindset having carte blanche and having the suits forcing you to use cheap polyester instead.

He's definitely not happy about it. Product quality aside, I imagine that the price point drop must f*ck with his (quite fragile) ego as a designer. Going from reviving an artisanal leather-goods brand to helming a struggling mid-tier outerwear brand must be a considerable downgrade in his eyes.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

What I am hearing from a pretty good source is that Lee is still part of the picture.

For now.

 

[90sfan]

Guess the CEO was fired today. Daniel Lee is next…

 

[Kimihiro]

They need to hold on to Daniel… for legitimacy. To have some semblance of being a fashion brand. Many reputable CD wouldn’t take a downmarket Burberry.

 

[90sfan]

Usually the new CEOs dont keep the designer. In the end if the day, Lee made nothing desirable for people to buy. People didnt decide to avoid Burberry because the CEO sucks. And he does suck as a CEO. Heard such horror things about him… But guess it all caught up with him.
Who’s next?!??

 

[90sfan]

Heard from some people inside the Burberry that the CEO and Lee are not even in speaking terms.
They will fire 500 people in the next 3 weeks, which is sad… The CEO is an obvious creep. Maybe they should have kept Tisci there. This has been a disaster like no other.

i knew this was coming… but hey.. I know a lot more … 👋🤪👋🤪

 

[vetements]

Usually the new CEOs dont keep the designer. In the end if the day, Lee made nothing desirable for people to buy. People didnt decide to avoid Burberry because the CEO sucks. And he does suck as a CEO. Heard such horror things about him… But guess it all caught up with him.
Who’s next?!??

I "avoided" Burberry because of the price points, much as I like very much some if not most of Lee's designs, and I will not say the CEO has nothing to do with decisions on the price points, so is it the CEO or Lee? you tell me.

Other comments; As for using "cheap polyester", I am not sure if that is totally necessary although I see your point if we understand Lee well enough. Can they not maintain the same or just slightly cheaper materials? Have they been overcharging under Ackeroyd who wanted to make a huge profit margin?

In all, I think Lee has matured corporate-wise, his BV departure episode wasn't exactly a pleasant one and I think if he is sensible enough he should have taken a lesson or two from there...

 

[Lola701]

Agree curious as well and i feel it should totally show as well in the direction of the new collections because it's not just price for me it's also the direction and the creative approach that is too mismatched and not clear what it stands for as a new Burberry forward since his appointment.

He should have the capabilities to turn it around if he is humble and willing to make it work, who know the next collection could have the total wow factor and making every one wanting to be part of it/buy into at no matter the price:-)

But nobody wants AI generated collections either.
I think Lee should continue on the path he is going in terms of elevated, fashion forward designs even if they have a classic flair.
Because he has to win the fashion game in order for the mass to follow.

If the Bailey era that people miss so much (people missing the past they never purchased anyway) was that successful in the last few years, he would have been at the helm of the brand at the moment.

Maybe less quirk like duck beanies but still fashion.

Usually the new CEOs dont keep the designer. In the end if the day, Lee made nothing desirable for people to buy. People didnt decide to avoid Burberry because the CEO sucks. And he does suck as a CEO. Heard such horror things about him… But guess it all caught up with him.
Who’s next?!??

Burberry was more expensive than Saint Laurent in the first season despite the wave reviews and the clear excitement around Lee’s arrival.
A Burberry trench shouldn’t cost the same price as a Louis Vuitton one.
So it’s fair to fire The CEO as he is responsible or the strategy and pricing is part of the strategy. The job of the CEO is to support and highlight the talent, not the way around. That’s why he was fired. Results are mandatory in his contract…They aren’t in a designer’s contract.

If Lee has to leave, it will be after his contract ends.

The reality is that I think Burberry customers were totally aware that the brand is not a classic luxury house.

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ Agree, they will never make him leave before the end of his contract.

 

[LadyJunon]

To be honest, I wouldn't be suprised if Burberry renews Lee's contract to solely save face. Also, it would be insanely difficult to replace him unless they aim for under-35s. Most industry veterans wouldn't join a struggling down-market Burberry, unless they were given Hedi-style creative reign across the brand.

 

[rowjellies]

Burberry has been struggling to revitalize its brand, which the company alluded to in the announcement Monday as “rebalancing” its line to include “a broader everyday luxury offer” and to emphasize “more of the timeless, classic attributes that Burberry is known for.” -New York Times

oh, Daniel Lee is PISSED.

This is absolutely not what he signed up for Lol.

BTW, accessories are more of his strong-suit. Reminder: RTW made up only 7% of sales during Lee's tenure at Bottega Veneta.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

oh, Daniel Lee is PISSED.

This is absolutely not what he signed up for Lol.

BTW, accessories are more of his strong-suit. Reminder: RTW made up only 7% of sales during Lee's tenure at Bottega Veneta.

He's lucky he has a job.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

To be honest, I wouldn't be suprised if Burberry renews Lee's contract to solely save face. Also, it would be insanely difficult to replace him unless they aim for under-35s. Most industry veterans wouldn't join a struggling down-market Burberry, unless they were given Hedi-style creative reign across the brand.

What I'm hearing is that Schulman is a hardass and has no patience for divas.

Basically, Lee will need to get with the program or he'll be shown the door.

I don't think Burberry is so bad off for talent. A lot of talented, under-the-radar designers would take the job for the right pay.

And frankly, they don't need the next Phoebe Philo. They need someone who can do fresh outerwear and cute bags. And right now, it doesn't look like that's Daniel Lee.

 

[Lola701]

oh, Daniel Lee is PISSED.

This is absolutely not what he signed up for Lol.

BTW, accessories are more of his strong-suit. Reminder: RTW made up only 7% of sales during Lee's tenure at Bottega Veneta.

Lee should be pissed only if there’s an intervention in the creative process. If the new CEO works in collaboration with him, it’s OK.
RTW didn’t even made 3% during Tomas Maier’s era but that has to do with the structure of the house. Bottega Veneta is beyond everything a leather goods house.

The structure of Burberry was DeFacto different. Even if he came to strengthen their accessories business, at the end of the day, the initial structure of the house was build around RTW.

He has one year left. We will see the short term impact of the new CEO before the end of the year and I guess by next year, in the first quarter, if the climate is still cloudy, he will either not renew or not be renewed.

 

[Abracai]

Burberry market cap stands now at 2.6B. In a few months it may become a prey. I see significant long term value in Burberry at actual prices.
And Ferragamo also pointing to go close to a bilion worth or maybe less.
I think this polarization in the industry will lead to further consolidation in a not so distant future. Big French guys spends the same amount of the actual value of those two companies to buy buildings in Paris, NY or Milan. But in the long term, and even with significant market headwinds, both Burberry or Ferragamo actually yields higher return on capital than real estates

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Lee should be pissed only if there’s an intervention in the creative process. If the new CEO works in collaboration with him, it’s OK.
RTW didn’t even made 3% during Tomas Maier’s era but that has to do with the structure of the house. Bottega Veneta is beyond everything a leather goods house.

The structure of Burberry was DeFacto different. Even if he came to strengthen their accessories business, at the end of the day, the initial structure of the house was build around RTW.

He has one year left. We will see the short term impact of the new CEO before the end of the year and I guess by next year, in the first quarter, if the climate is still cloudy, he will either not renew or not be renewed.

It looks like that intervention already happened judging from the last resort collection.