Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

[PDFSD]

someone in the thread was genuinely surprised that a potential new candidate for the role was in the building during the existing tenure of other CD/s. People seem to forget that brands are brutal and would do anything to keep the business going.

agree 10000 % it's not a daycare center for creative tortured souls :-)

 

[proseccotabis]

agree 10000 % it's not a daycare center for creative tortured souls :-)

for sure. its certainly a myth that you're not merely a number here. a brutal industry for the mental state

 

[Lola701]

An unpopular opinion maybe, but Daniel's offerings for Burberry aren't - or should I say weren't, since they are barely promoting/selling them - that bad at all and I am not really blaming him for how the brand is performing.
To me, it's a situation different than, say, Raf at Calvin, because Lee did present things that are in line with what Burberry is as a house and didn't turn it into an unmarketable fever dream. Ok, the duck beanie was a joke and the 1st show overall wasn't a hit in its frumpiness, but most of the stuff I've seen in person looks solid, from his takes on plaid to the variations of loafers with metal plates. People are kind of omitting he is rather capable of putting together things that are grounded, yet desirable (his Bottega was quite strong across many categories and laid the base for its current success + he was obviously responsible for a lot at Céline) and that is very much what's needed at Jil Sander. The Meiers have turned it into a brand of decorative minimalism, a lane crowded by trend chasers who think keeping it reduced means having permanently wet-looking hair, a meticulously curated feed and a coat with no buttons so that you (have to) hold it and look aloof.. while Jil was all about creating things that should be equally functional and aesthetically pleasing due to the focus on fabrics and cuts with a few chosen details. Which is what Daniel did well - his confidently cut shirts, outerwear and tailoring with the signature V were more than satisfying - before he started feeding into the hype machine at BV and then tried to repeat it at Burberry.

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The bomber with the pant is so perfect!

Lee at JS make sense. Renzo Rosso would do anything as long as it has Anna’s approval. She seems to be very supportive of Lee, wearing the ugly Burberry scarf, attending stores opening, featuring his clothes…etc.

I’m sure Anna will also have her say in whoever takes Margiela too.

Those brands aren’t advertisers as far as I know so, having her approval means constant coverall. He can blow Diesel’s money at Vogue and support her various projects.

 

[blueorchid]

At this rate they are going to hire Vicky Beckham as Burberry CD...

Just make sure she copies the right designers and it could work!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ …Why not Vicky and Dave? He can draw the masses like fly to sh!t better than her. And they’d be the #firstcelebhusbandwife designing duo. These rubbish times are all about tricks/gimmicks/power couples (..just ask Shawn Carter and his fembot wife…).

I hope Daniel goes to rehab, because I wouldn´t like to see duck prints at Jil Sander...

LOL The all-American preppy Nantucket duck prints/motifs for a quintessential British label is a hilarious tryhard flop. It’s his Americanness coming through again and again— just like his Bottega was riddled with Banana Republic sequinned twinsets that are the signatures of every American department store since the mid-90s. He’s always been a phoney department store type desperately attempting European edge. He just happened to had learned the secret of being successful these dire fashion days is to accent basics with loud, cartoony Dr Seuss statement pieces in a Lego color-palette. And credit to him, he suckered an entire generation with such a caricature of the fashion victim— and without the support of a status-chasing logo/monogram the way that brands like current-day Gucci/SL/Chanel heavily depend on. Perhaps this is being way way way too generous to him, but his trajectory is somewhat similar to Claude Montana’s: Very serious, very self-important, and mostly, very much a caricature of the humourless fashion victim of the time that they’re designing for. And like Montana, also very painfully dated when we look back in 5 years from now. At his most coveted— and that’s his Bottega, he was relevant for the women and twinks that want to look “super cute” on their social. Eh.