Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

[donyan]

^ the more this guy talks the more I’m convinced they’re already looking for some cheap, submissive outerwear designer who will replace Lee…

it’s more a question of hiring a designer capable of answering to a brief, not cheap or submissive. Lee is a great designer but it turns out he wasn’t the right fit for this specific brand, that’s all. I liked his Bottega but his Burberry was bewildering to say the least.

 

[Olaffo]

^ I disagree: his bags are selling and his outerwear was much better received than „three sleeve - mermaid” bullsh*t from Riccardo. If Burberry wanted a good designer who would build new chapter for the company they should let him do what he wants and what he’s good at instead of meddling with c-suite and completely cage him.

 

[Overindulgence]

In an ideal world, where Burberry wasn't positioning itself to be the British equivalent of Coach, I would love Burberry to appoint Wales Bonner so she can stop wasting her talent on Adidas. I think she could bring back some of the needed aspirational preppy branding as well.

 

[vetements]

^ I disagree: his bags are selling and his outerwear was much better received than „three sleeve - mermaid” bullsh*t from Riccardo. If Burberry wanted a good designer who would build new chapter for the company they should let him do what he wants and what he’s good at instead of meddling with c-suite and completely cage him.

I will have to agree. I cant say for his bags, they are nice but not as good as his BV that makes it desirable enough. I bought a coat and except for the fake fur that I rather dislike, the fit was perfect, with small details at the right place, almost unnoticeable, but they made a big difference when worn.

 

[Lola701]

it’s more a question of hiring a designer capable of answering to a brief, not cheap or submissive. Lee is a great designer but it turns out he wasn’t the right fit for this specific brand, that’s all. I liked his Bottega but his Burberry was bewildering to say the least.

His Burberry is as great as his BV and I would say, much more consistent.
But it was shot in the foot right in the beginning.

In reality, I didn’t expect from him to be able to have such a distinctive style at Burberry while maintaining his aesthetic.

The only thing I miss from his work now is his fabulous knitwear. He is great at doing fun knitwear.

I prefer his Burberry accessories too. No more obnoxious colors, unnecessary puffy pieces.

I must admit, Daniel Lee is one of my current favorite designers but I have this sour thing about his career. The potential is not fully exploited! I don’t want him to be another Paolo Melun Andersson or Rodolfo Pagliangula (My god he was so great for Vionnet) and have his future be a « IF ».

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

In an ideal world, where Burberry wasn't positioning itself to be the British equivalent of Coach, I would love Burberry to appoint Wales Bonner so she can stop wasting her talent on Adidas. I think she could bring back some of the needed aspirational preppy branding as well.

Stop trying to make Grace happen, she has been coping new Miu Miu recently
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vogurunway

Ralph Lauren can have both a main line and Polo; why can't Burberry do the same? Why do they have to be just Coach?

 

[Thefrenchy]

^^ I agree Lola. He's also great at mens trousers. He's the designer I bought the most trousers from (which is always a nightmare for me as I usually find everything so dull ).

For him to thrive and succeed, you have to give him full control which is not something suits are very fond of in this moment in time (hence all these rather mid nominations...).

Knowing people who worked directly with him, I'm told he's nowhere near as difficult as many make him out to be. Not a soft boy either to be honest, but simply very specific in what he wants to achieve and won't let go until he has it. Which ends up being beneficial if you look at the commercial success that was his BV. God forbid, they fired him while he was still selling really well.

Eventually it all boils down to are you willing to bend to the executives or not. He's a great designer, not a great "politician". I do hope he will find a house that will provide him with the freedom that he needs - yet I hope he realises you sometimes should compromise in order to safeguard what you're doing in the long term.

 

[donyan]

I bought a coat and except for the fake fur that I rather dislike, the fit was perfect, with small details at the right place, almost unnoticeable, but they made a big difference when worn.

may I ask what they where? Not trolling, just genuinely interested as to what these details are.

 

[PDFSD]

His Burberry is as great as his BV and I would say, much more consistent.
But it was shot in the foot right in the beginning.

In reality, I didn’t expect from him to be able to have such a distinctive style at Burberry while maintaining his aesthetic.

The only thing I miss from his work now is his fabulous knitwear. He is great at doing fun knitwear.

I prefer his Burberry accessories too. No more obnoxious colors, unnecessary puffy pieces.

I must admit, Daniel Lee is one of my current favorite designers but I have this sour thing about his career. The potential is not fully exploited! I don’t want him to be another Paolo Melun Andersson or Rodolfo Pagliangula (My god he was so great for Vionnet) and have his future be a « IF ».

i wish he brought more focus of his BV to Burberry , he lost it at Burberry its very clashing colors and prints and big knights logo and the very hard hard wear.......his BV on all levels where more chic fun and focus amd had a luxury flair.

its not same level even when you remove the quality of BV out of the discussion , vision , image , design wise & colors

burberry acc especially are very ugly , at BV they had a balance of quirky and sexy or utility ...thats why Blazy for me is same in acc everything is clownish especially shoes perfect for chanel i guesss :-)

 

[fashionmarketeditor]

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ It's not true, they already signed the next designer and it isn't him.

 

[proseccotabis]

Knowing people who worked directly with him, I'm told he's nowhere near as difficult as many make him out to be. Not a soft boy either to be honest, but simply very specific in what he wants to achieve and won't let go until he has it.

Been saying it for years. He’s a nice bloke, but won’t kiss *** like some cough cough. Incredibly stubborn, lacks that sort of cunning diplomacy, but a great guy overall.

 

[Mathewthew]

^ It's not true, they already signed the next designer and it isn't him.

And May I ask Who's that??

 

[JohannesL]

^ It's not true, they already signed the next designer and it isn't him.

John Galliano for Jil Sander! Groundbreaking! I am kidding!

 

[vetements]

may I ask what they where? Not trolling, just genuinely interested as to what these details are.

some darts at the shoulder and a `string` that you can pull/ adjust to the right amount of tightness and make the over-sized-ness not bulky all over. the hood with the fake fur also fit nicely, not too snug nor loose that it will `fall` over.
I dont know if it is just me being lucky with finding something that fits so well, or it really is well for all. But I love coats and I own many coats from big brands to coat brands but they always have something that irk me. This one I havent found anything (yet).

My apologies but I am not very good at describing it but I hope you get the drift...




I hope he doesnt go Jil Sander but stay at Burberry! Maybe with a twist of fate, the CEO will be fired and he gets to stay or better still, become the CEO, like C Baily.

 

[Lola701]

i wish he brought more focus of his BV to Burberry , he lost it at Burberry its very clashing colors and prints and big knights logo and the very hard hard wear.......his BV on all levels where more chic fun and focus amd had a luxury flair.

its not same level even when you remove the quality of BV out of the discussion , vision , image , design wise & colors

burberry acc especially are very ugly , at BV they had a balance of quirky and sexy or utility ...thats why Blazy for me is same in acc everything is clownish especially shoes perfect for chanel i guesss :-)

I must admit, I wasn’t that much of a fan of Lee’s accessories at BV. I bought a canvas and leather simple bag from his very first collection (SS19 I think), a pair of fishnet sandals, a pouch with chains and maybe another piece of accessories. I did loved the jewelry and the Art Direction but for me the magic of his work were his clothes.
I loved his clothes.

I know I’m maybe in the minority in the fact that I loved Blazy accessories more. The shoes and bags fitted more with my perception of Bottega Veneta.
His clothes are very different from Lee’s. And I like them for different reasons.

Lee understands the IT accessory while making rather timeless clothes. I think while impactful, on a long term for BV, it would have become quite tiring.

I hope he doesnt go Jil Sander but stay at Burberry! Maybe with a twist of fate, the CEO will be fired and he gets to stay or better still, become the CEO, like C Baily.

C. Bailey becoming the CEO of Burberry was the beginning of the problems.

Inevitably, I don’t see how can Lee can renew his contract at Burberry. They are already impacting his creative process by limiting the presence of his ideas in the stores.
The board of direction is composed of very few people from the industry.

Burberry may be a good name but not a good brand for someone who has so much to offer.

They should appoint Kim Jones. He is perfect for the brand. Beige and full of collabs and name-dropping!

 

[Xone]

^ It's not true, they already signed the next designer and it isn't him.

Could you give us a hint?...

 

[Grets]

Hedi Slimane to Jil Sander?

 

[Lola701]

Hedi Slimane to Jil Sander?

Besides the B&W, there’s nothing that could work there.
Jil Sander is supposed to be the ultra modernist and Hedi’s modernity is quite heavily informed by the past and may not look modern when extracted from the bubble that is his world.