I dont think Dario is the one for the job either. We all know who my candidate is.
But the thing precisely is that we haven’t seen a show. So far from now, everything that has been put out from him is making us having a negative biais towards what is coming in September but maybe he will switch things.
A lot of criticism tends to be so definitive about a whole project that is still in it « balbutiements » even more considering that the guy will probably be out.
What make the appreciation for thing more difficult to me today and that impact my reactions is the amount of informations we have today.
A bad collection or a bad moment is nothing to me as long as the designer has the vision. I have a respect for a vision. Riccardo is someone who had a vision at Givenchy even if for someone who started in 2005, he only got his real positive reactions in 2007.
Nicolas is very polarizing but there’s a vision for his Vuitton. Alessandro Michele on the other hand doesn’t seem to have a vision for Valentino.
And all the examples you mentioned had a sense of vision. It took time for Marc to get it but he found it.
A lot of comments across a lot of newly appointed CD is « the collection was lackluster, the tenure is going to be a disaster ». And when it’s applied for everybody, it’s really difficult to have a sense of balance.
And we all know that isolated Red carpet moments are not really indicative of anything.
I’m satisfied with Haider because he seems to have a clear POV of what his TF is going to be. I’m confused by Sarah Burton at Givenchy because I expected her to replicate McQueen and I don’t know where it’s heading to.
I’m confused by JWA because it’s too much informations in 2 months. I like to go without expecting anything and I feel like I’m seeing someone testing the water.
In a ideal world, all those brands should have had celebrities wearing the FW2025 collections and not previews or custom for the new CD. It’s really frustrating.
but maybe the balance is objectively just out of balance because of the amount of mediocrity that keeps coming out..
I disagree Alessandro has a vision it's just not resonating, its alienating to the valentino lover/buyer and rightfully so.
NG has a vision its just one noted by now and ego driven to just indulge in jaring overdesign just to be so.
Marc had a vision but not the right one for the first show (the concept was to hide the LV monogram and give focus one the clothes, then he changed it by request of bernard to celebrating the LV monogram.... both where visions one was not correct for the house one was.
My issue is not wrong vision it can be adjusted as time shown us, what i constantly see early on is the lack of a vision one .
a wrong vision i can not like it but lack of i am brutally against it , because i know resources are there available.
(worked on many brand rehauling, many ones spoken about here :-)
HA yes a better start than i was scared of but i see his weakness in the ideas already going to stifle the buzz for his TF. but the ad is trash and tilda ad is borderline ok for TF. i see things to niche indie for a brand like TF that needs the right balance of pop and exclusivity
JWA i like the layer of approach for his men's show - but the woman's every preview is odd and ugly and flat cheap i see his woman's show will be struggling. it will be too infantile under Dior he is not leaning in sharpness and edge to balance the Dior sweetness.
i agree the preview custom looks are frustrating but uslay it comes from directions of the main line i am sure things we see in dior red carpet are connected to Dior runway. we just did not see it yet to see the links.
i think the definite feeling comes from being frustrated with constant lack luster outings of new work of various brands ne CD´s , like being fed up i think it's also often a figure of speech like it going to be a disaster like this etc and doesn't mean it can't be ever great.
its bad till proven to be great i say, courtesy is given in anticipation of new work, but these drops of looks are new work so the judgment can start .
Reverence and praise is earned when greatness is shown not the other way around.