Demna Gvasalia - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

That I cannot share (I felt the eye-roll, I asked for it lol), but I only post “intel” here if it’s from my own witnessing or from someone close. My “sources” are always people I know, trust, and would be in position to know the information they share, I never post from online sources - not bashing that as a source, I just have 0 social media accounts and engagement so I don’t see what goes on there.
We all know it’s from your mailman’s butcher’s daughter’s teacher’s cab driver’s esthetician’s uncle’s boyfriend’s dog walker’s candlemaker’s SA… like it always is. 😉
 
Nicolas. And I’m sure JWA is going to be paid way more than MGC or Kim Jones.

It’s much more about the status of the designer than the position.

I have heard that the Mayhoola people pays well!
Hedi @ Celine was not only remunerated as a CD: he billed them the photographs and the campaigns, the store designs and furniture, and royalties on the perfumes. I would not be surprised at all if he were invoicing Celine menswear on top of womenswear.
So in the end, he might have received much more than Nicolas.
 
Hedi @ Celine was not only remunerated as a CD: he billed them the photographs and the campaigns, the store designs and furniture, and royalties on the perfumes. I would not be surprised at all if he were invoicing Celine menswear on top of womenswear.
So in the end, he might have received much more than Nicolas.
I didn’t count him as he is not there anymore.
Yes all those added activities would make him earn more from the initial contract.

But Nicolas coming from Balenciaga had already a lot of leverage in terms of negociations. After 2 renewals and good performances, I wouldn’t be surprised if his contract exceed 10M.

But it’s like when we talked about Karl. He spent like crazy and we estimated the 10M a year from Chanel, the pay from Fendi, the pay from his own brand but we also forgot that he was also charging those extras such as campaigns and all for all brands.

I know Hedi is a visionary and all but his main mise always feels so much like greed to me. I’m going to do it just because I can chargé you that lol.
 
Definitely Nicolas as Lola said. Even just for the mere stature thing. Well deserved I’d say.

All in all though it might really be Hedi if he’s working. The design contract is of course huge but for one we know he charges for everything. You don’t hire Slimane to design for a brand. You hire him to transform (even if in his own image) a brand. Plus he sells so there’s that. It’s much more than being a fashion designer. I could imagine he charges almost on par with Nicolas for just design alone. Did he ever do renewals? We know it would be absurd as what happened at Dior Homme.

MGC and JWA post renewals might’ve been expensive too, no?
 
Pharrell is up there as well top 10 for sure maybe even 5 because of his celebrity status and cultural pull and IP his face is even on the bags now lol


fun to reread this :

How Gucci Plays Tax Games Across Europe​

When it comes to the public purse, the classic Italian brand is not a big spender​

26 January 2018​

Switzerland, Milan, Paris​


Italian luxury label Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri collected the bulk of his eight million Euro annual salary using a shell company in Luxembourg and a questionable Swiss tax residence

This financial scheme helped Bizzarri and Gucci’s French mother company Kering save millions of Euro in tax



In 2014, Gucci was the grand diva of the luxury goods market. Nearly a century old, the Florentine brand was respected and distinguished, but lacked a vision to seduce millennials hungry for haute couture.

So Kering, Gucci’s French owner, promoted the Italian boss of its leather accessories specialist Bottega Veneta, Marco Bizzarri, to spearhead a new Gucci appealing to members of the Snapchat generation who had loads of cash.

Since taking up the job in early 2015, Bizzarri is credited with redefining an Italian classic, such as ending price-slashing on new collections, creating gender neutral items, adding a touch of geek chic, and banning the use of fur.

But his major stroke of genius was to appoint eccentric designer Alessandro Michele as creative director, and then give him the freedom to do what he wanted with the brand - no questions asked.

Gucci’s collections changed from conservative chic to edgy and unpredictable eclecticism.

And this risk paid off.

Sales for Kering’s top brand have boomed ever since Bizzarri’s appointment, and last year France awarded the 55-year-old Italian with the Legion of Honour.

But this talent comes at a cost.


At the end of 2014, the businessman negotiated with his bosses for a net salary of eight million Euro a year to lead Gucci.

During the first years of this new job, Bizzarri paid just 13 per cent income tax, compared to a 45 per cent rate for high earners in Italy.

That could mean a massive tax saving of around 3.2 million Euro per year.

The Italian brand managed this feat of accounting wizardry by paying Bizzarri through a company in Luxembourg and a residence in Switzerland.

The scheme was in the interests of Kering. The company paid just 0.36 per cent in social security contributions on Bizzarri’s 9.5 million gross salary at Gucci – a small amount of 34,000 Euro. From this only 0.2 per cent was paid in Italy, a tiny figure of 19,000 Euro.

This means that while Italy’s premier brand cashes in on selling its snakeskin mini-bags and leather portfolios, the public purse in Milan is left wanting.

To establish such a structure, Bizzarri’s tax set-up was personally validated by Kering’s majority shareholder François-Henri Pinault, the seventh richest man in France, and owner of a family fortune worth 19 billion Euro.

These revelations emerge from confidential internal documents obtained by French online news site Mediapart, and analysed by partners in the European Investigative Collaborations (EIC) network.

Tax evasion suspicion on “monstrous scale”​

The Italian cops have wised up to Gucci. Last November, the country’s financial police searched the Gucci offices in Milan and Florence over a three-day period. The suspicion: tax evasion on a monstrous scale.

Gucci is suspected of shifting a total of 1.3 billion Euro past the Italian treasury.
This includes a scheme where its Italian-made products are sold from Switzerland, allowing the brand to concentrate its profits in the tax-friendly mountainous state, thus avoiding paying Italian tax, allege investigators.

As news of the raid leaked, Gucci confirmed the ongoing proceedings with a standard reaction. The company trusted that it had done nothing wrong, and was fully cooperating with investigators.

This lax attitude to tax seems to spread from the warehouse to the boardroom. Marco Bizzarri has officially not been living for seven years in Italy, where he earned his millions, but in the Swiss canton of Ticino. The reason? Possibly its financial advantages?
Bizzarri Gucci

Marco Bizzarri’s high-risk leadership saw a radical turnaround for Gucci, but his tax affairs moved through Luxembourg and Switzerland - two countries that are neither the home of the brand - Italy, or its parent company - France

The Mysterious Swiss Residence​

In Ticino, on Lake Lugano, is a village called Vico Morcote. Outside an apartment block with a picturesque vista is a bell and a sign with Marco Bizzarri’s name.

This does not seem to be a busy abode. More than 30 letters are stacked in Bizzarri’s mailbox, and the blinds in front of the windows are down, giving the residence the feel of an offseason holiday flat.

To enjoy Switzerland’s favourable tax regime, no minimum presence in the country is required, and Bizzarri can take in the lake and mountain views during sunny weekends, or on holidays.

Meanwhile the Swiss taxman considers that foreign revenues have already been taxed abroad. Therefore the taxable income is called a ‘forfeit’ which reflects what the resident spends in the country. For Bizzarri, this spending amounted to just 500,000 Swiss Francs, on which he paid 146,000 Euro in income tax.

Such a set-up may not satisfy the Italian authorities. They calculate that if an individual lives in Italy for more than 183 days a year, that person must pay their taxes in Italy.

This is hard for a hands-on manager like Bizzarri, who leads a multi-billion brand in Milan, 81 km south of Vico Morcote. The commute is around 90 minutes. There are traffic jams all along the route.

Bizzarri also has a more convenient home in Milan. In 2009, his employers procured him an apartment in the centre of Italy’s financial capital - but very discreetly. On 23 July 2009, an Italian company called BV Servizi, represented by its chairman Marco Bizzarri, signed a four-year contract for a luxury penthouse apartment in Piazza Diaz, central Milan, not far from the Duomo.

The annual cost was 88,500 Euro for the rent, plus 30,000 Euro in expenses, such as cleaning and security. It is hard to live in a better location in Milan. The ‘BV’ in BV Servizi stood for Bottega Veneta, Kering’s luxury bag brand, where Bizzarri was working at the time.

The contract stated that the apartment could not be used as an office, and only as a living space. The real purpose was to provide an apartment for Bizzarri in Milan, indicate later emails. In one of the messages, the suite is referred to as ‘Bizzarro House Milan’. Later in 2015, in a discussion concerning whether Gucci should take over the lease from Bottega Veneta, Bizzarri joked in an email: “Just do not let me end up under a bridge.”

On the mailbox in Milan today the name listed is Stefano Bizzarri, the son of Marco, who studies in Milan and, it appears, shacks up with Dad.

But Marco doesn’t pay the bills. Everything is in the name of the company - BV Servizi. There is nothing to break the illusion that Bizzarri lives in Switzerland.

The Luxembourg Link​

When Kering hired Bizzarri to rescue Gucci at the end of 2014, he knew he was a high value asset - and the top management was ready to offer him big bucks.

Francois-Henri Pinault, the French majority shareholder and CEO of the Kering group, met with Bizzarri and proposed an exorbitant salary. This was not only at the expense of the corporate group. The Italian treasury would also pay heavily.

This is revealed in a mail to Bizzarri, which came shortly after the meeting. Kering’s managing director Jean-François Palus, the right-hand man of Pinault, confirmed the offer: “You will see in the attached documents that, given your status as a non-resident in Italy, the salary components give an estimated total remuneration of 8,041 K Euros as net salary.”

That means 8.041 million Euro in the Gucci boss’s pocket.

The residence in Switzerland was not the only trick. Bizzarri had two employment contracts - one with the Italian subsidiary Guccio Gucci, and a second with a letterbox company in Luxembourg, Castera. This ‘shell’ firm in Luxembourg was already set up to employ Bizzarri at his previous Kering job at Bottega Veneta.

“We suggest two employment contracts,” said Pinault's close aide Jean-François Palus. The first was an employee contract with Castera in Luxembourg - worth 5.8 million Euro per year, and the second a director's contract with the Italian company Guccio Gucci at 3.6 million Euro.

Here appears to be a sleight of hand:

“Mr. Bizzarri does not carry out any activities as an employee in Luxembourg,” wrote the Castera tax consultant in a 2013 email. The salary is therefore not taxed in the Grand Duchy. “In all papers we have stated that Mr. Bizzarri is a Swiss resident.”

Therefore income for the Italian CEO of the Italian brand flowed through Luxembourg, and landed in Switzerland, where it fell under the tiny tax rate for super-rich foreigners.

According to Kering’s internal calculations, Bizzarri paid 146,000 Euro in taxes in Switzerland on his 5.8 million Euro salary through Luxembourg.

However Bizzarri would have to pay at least some tax in Italy. The remaining 3.65 million Euro is paid by the Italian company Guccio Gucci, using a deduction at source of 1.2 million Euro. This equals 33 per cent of the Swiss resident’s income, in contrast to the rate of 50 per cent he would be expected to pay on all taxes as a high-earner resident in Italy, according to Mediapart’s calculations.

And how do Gucci and Bizzarri respond?​

According to one source, the boss of Gucci decided in 2017 to become an Italian tax resident. Asked to clarify this alleged recent change in status, Bizzarri himself refused to respond, even after a clear period of time to reply.

We also asked François-Henri Pinault and Marco Bizzarri to clarify several other points about this scheme. Is it legal? Is this the only example in the group? Has the Luxembourg shell company Castera been used by the group to pay its other executives using the same arrangement?

To these and other questions, our requests for further information and clarification remained unanswered.
 
Pharrell is up there as well top 10 for sure maybe even 5 because of his celebrity status and cultural pull and IP his face is even on the bags now lol


fun to reread this :

How Gucci Plays Tax Games Across Europe​

When it comes to the public purse, the classic Italian brand is not a big spender​

26 January 2018​

Switzerland, Milan, Paris​

Italian luxury label Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri collected the bulk of his eight million Euro annual salary using a shell company in Luxembourg and a questionable Swiss tax residence

This financial scheme helped Bizzarri and Gucci’s French mother company Kering save millions of Euro in tax



In 2014, Gucci was the grand diva of the luxury goods market. Nearly a century old, the Florentine brand was respected and distinguished, but lacked a vision to seduce millennials hungry for haute couture.

So Kering, Gucci’s French owner, promoted the Italian boss of its leather accessories specialist Bottega Veneta, Marco Bizzarri, to spearhead a new Gucci appealing to members of the Snapchat generation who had loads of cash.

Since taking up the job in early 2015, Bizzarri is credited with redefining an Italian classic, such as ending price-slashing on new collections, creating gender neutral items, adding a touch of geek chic, and banning the use of fur.

But his major stroke of genius was to appoint eccentric designer Alessandro Michele as creative director, and then give him the freedom to do what he wanted with the brand - no questions asked.

Gucci’s collections changed from conservative chic to edgy and unpredictable eclecticism.

And this risk paid off.

Sales for Kering’s top brand have boomed ever since Bizzarri’s appointment, and last year France awarded the 55-year-old Italian with the Legion of Honour.

But this talent comes at a cost.


At the end of 2014, the businessman negotiated with his bosses for a net salary of eight million Euro a year to lead Gucci.

During the first years of this new job, Bizzarri paid just 13 per cent income tax, compared to a 45 per cent rate for high earners in Italy.

That could mean a massive tax saving of around 3.2 million Euro per year.

The Italian brand managed this feat of accounting wizardry by paying Bizzarri through a company in Luxembourg and a residence in Switzerland.

The scheme was in the interests of Kering. The company paid just 0.36 per cent in social security contributions on Bizzarri’s 9.5 million gross salary at Gucci – a small amount of 34,000 Euro. From this only 0.2 per cent was paid in Italy, a tiny figure of 19,000 Euro.

This means that while Italy’s premier brand cashes in on selling its snakeskin mini-bags and leather portfolios, the public purse in Milan is left wanting.

To establish such a structure, Bizzarri’s tax set-up was personally validated by Kering’s majority shareholder François-Henri Pinault, the seventh richest man in France, and owner of a family fortune worth 19 billion Euro.

These revelations emerge from confidential internal documents obtained by French online news site Mediapart, and analysed by partners in the European Investigative Collaborations (EIC) network.

Tax evasion suspicion on “monstrous scale”​

The Italian cops have wised up to Gucci. Last November, the country’s financial police searched the Gucci offices in Milan and Florence over a three-day period. The suspicion: tax evasion on a monstrous scale.

Gucci is suspected of shifting a total of 1.3 billion Euro past the Italian treasury. This includes a scheme where its Italian-made products are sold from Switzerland, allowing the brand to concentrate its profits in the tax-friendly mountainous state, thus avoiding paying Italian tax, allege investigators.

As news of the raid leaked, Gucci confirmed the ongoing proceedings with a standard reaction. The company trusted that it had done nothing wrong, and was fully cooperating with investigators.

This lax attitude to tax seems to spread from the warehouse to the boardroom. Marco Bizzarri has officially not been living for seven years in Italy, where he earned his millions, but in the Swiss canton of Ticino. The reason? Possibly its financial advantages?
Bizzarri Gucci

Marco Bizzarri’s high-risk leadership saw a radical turnaround for Gucci, but his tax affairs moved through Luxembourg and Switzerland - two countries that are neither the home of the brand - Italy, or its parent company - France

The Mysterious Swiss Residence​

In Ticino, on Lake Lugano, is a village called Vico Morcote. Outside an apartment block with a picturesque vista is a bell and a sign with Marco Bizzarri’s name.

This does not seem to be a busy abode. More than 30 letters are stacked in Bizzarri’s mailbox, and the blinds in front of the windows are down, giving the residence the feel of an offseason holiday flat.

To enjoy Switzerland’s favourable tax regime, no minimum presence in the country is required, and Bizzarri can take in the lake and mountain views during sunny weekends, or on holidays.

Meanwhile the Swiss taxman considers that foreign revenues have already been taxed abroad. Therefore the taxable income is called a ‘forfeit’ which reflects what the resident spends in the country. For Bizzarri, this spending amounted to just 500,000 Swiss Francs, on which he paid 146,000 Euro in income tax.

Such a set-up may not satisfy the Italian authorities. They calculate that if an individual lives in Italy for more than 183 days a year, that person must pay their taxes in Italy.

This is hard for a hands-on manager like Bizzarri, who leads a multi-billion brand in Milan, 81 km south of Vico Morcote. The commute is around 90 minutes. There are traffic jams all along the route.

Bizzarri also has a more convenient home in Milan. In 2009, his employers procured him an apartment in the centre of Italy’s financial capital - but very discreetly. On 23 July 2009, an Italian company called BV Servizi, represented by its chairman Marco Bizzarri, signed a four-year contract for a luxury penthouse apartment in Piazza Diaz, central Milan, not far from the Duomo.

The annual cost was 88,500 Euro for the rent, plus 30,000 Euro in expenses, such as cleaning and security. It is hard to live in a better location in Milan. The ‘BV’ in BV Servizi stood for Bottega Veneta, Kering’s luxury bag brand, where Bizzarri was working at the time.

The contract stated that the apartment could not be used as an office, and only as a living space. The real purpose was to provide an apartment for Bizzarri in Milan, indicate later emails. In one of the messages, the suite is referred to as ‘Bizzarro House Milan’. Later in 2015, in a discussion concerning whether Gucci should take over the lease from Bottega Veneta, Bizzarri joked in an email: “Just do not let me end up under a bridge.”

On the mailbox in Milan today the name listed is Stefano Bizzarri, the son of Marco, who studies in Milan and, it appears, shacks up with Dad.

But Marco doesn’t pay the bills. Everything is in the name of the company - BV Servizi. There is nothing to break the illusion that Bizzarri lives in Switzerland.

The Luxembourg Link​

When Kering hired Bizzarri to rescue Gucci at the end of 2014, he knew he was a high value asset - and the top management was ready to offer him big bucks.

Francois-Henri Pinault, the French majority shareholder and CEO of the Kering group, met with Bizzarri and proposed an exorbitant salary. This was not only at the expense of the corporate group. The Italian treasury would also pay heavily.

This is revealed in a mail to Bizzarri, which came shortly after the meeting. Kering’s managing director Jean-François Palus, the right-hand man of Pinault, confirmed the offer: “You will see in the attached documents that, given your status as a non-resident in Italy, the salary components give an estimated total remuneration of 8,041 K Euros as net salary.”

That means 8.041 million Euro in the Gucci boss’s pocket.

The residence in Switzerland was not the only trick. Bizzarri had two employment contracts - one with the Italian subsidiary Guccio Gucci, and a second with a letterbox company in Luxembourg, Castera. This ‘shell’ firm in Luxembourg was already set up to employ Bizzarri at his previous Kering job at Bottega Veneta.

“We suggest two employment contracts,” said Pinault's close aide Jean-François Palus. The first was an employee contract with Castera in Luxembourg - worth 5.8 million Euro per year, and the second a director's contract with the Italian company Guccio Gucci at 3.6 million Euro.

Here appears to be a sleight of hand:

“Mr. Bizzarri does not carry out any activities as an employee in Luxembourg,” wrote the Castera tax consultant in a 2013 email. The salary is therefore not taxed in the Grand Duchy. “In all papers we have stated that Mr. Bizzarri is a Swiss resident.”

Therefore income for the Italian CEO of the Italian brand flowed through Luxembourg, and landed in Switzerland, where it fell under the tiny tax rate for super-rich foreigners.

According to Kering’s internal calculations, Bizzarri paid 146,000 Euro in taxes in Switzerland on his 5.8 million Euro salary through Luxembourg.

However Bizzarri would have to pay at least some tax in Italy. The remaining 3.65 million Euro is paid by the Italian company Guccio Gucci, using a deduction at source of 1.2 million Euro. This equals 33 per cent of the Swiss resident’s income, in contrast to the rate of 50 per cent he would be expected to pay on all taxes as a high-earner resident in Italy, according to Mediapart’s calculations.

And how do Gucci and Bizzarri respond?​

According to one source, the boss of Gucci decided in 2017 to become an Italian tax resident. Asked to clarify this alleged recent change in status, Bizzarri himself refused to respond, even after a clear period of time to reply.

We also asked François-Henri Pinault and Marco Bizzarri to clarify several other points about this scheme. Is it legal? Is this the only example in the group? Has the Luxembourg shell company Castera been used by the group to pay its other executives using the same arrangement?

To these and other questions, our requests for further information and clarification remained unanswered.
exactly, and no reasons to change, just sophisticating the scheme.
 
I did re watch several Vetements/Balenciaga collections pre 2020 yesterday and fell in love again with lots of pieces. He's a talent designer ( at least more than that person at Valentino ) and it would be cool if he can move on from Lotta's post Soviet styling to sth more sensual and mature.
I'm not a fan of Gucci but genuinely want to see Demna's takes on this brand
 
Demna will debut his CSAM-chic vision for Gucci in September:

Kering Reports 14% Sales Drop, Demna to Unveil First Gucci Designs in September
The cash-cow Italian brand, down 24 percent in the three-month period, is awaiting Balenciaga fashion star Demna to rev up creativity.

Updated 2:38 p.m. ET April 23

Gucci’s new creative director Demna is expected to deliver the first “hint” of his vision for the ailing Italian megabrand this September, Kering executive Francesca Bellettini said Wednesday night.

Speaking to analysts after the French luxury group missed low expectations and reported a 14 percent drop in first-quarter revenues to 3.88 billion euros, she also made clear that the Georgian designer, who is moving over from sister brand Balenciaga in early July, will not pursue a scorched-earth policy on existing product lines, despite his past penchant for dystopian aesthetics.

“Demna is going to build on the vision of the brand. He’s going to bring desirability and fashionability, but it’s a build-up, not a cancelation,” said Bellettini, deputy chief executive officer in charge of brand development.

Bellettini and Armelle Poulou, Kering’s chief financial officer, were pummeled with questions about Gucci’s near-term prospects, given that its first-quarter sales dropped 25 percent on a comparable basis, slightly worse than the last three months of the year. (The brand accounted for 63 percent of Kering’s operating profit in 2024.)

While acknowledging that carryover styles were a heavy drag on Gucci’s performance in the quarter, Bellettini touted that its new Emblem, B Bag and Softbit handbag lines were performing in a low-traffic environment “giving us a lot of confidence in the appeal of novelties.”

She said Ophidia and Marmont lines would similarly be tweaked and improved in the near future, and “we are pushing even more on our supply chain to decrease the time to market for novelties. This is going to be the focus.”

In the future, “Demna for sure will be reinterpreting the icons,” Bellettini assured.

Since the designer was announced last month as the successor to Italian designer Sabato De Sarno, analysts had been fretting about the timing of Demna’s first Gucci collection, given that he is only finishing up his Balenciaga tenure in July with a couture collection.

De Sarno exited Gucci last February after a two-year collaboration that failed to ignite sales. His collections were met with mixed reviews and his timeless take on signature pieces did not gain enough traction at retail for a turnaround.

Bellettini skirted a direct question about who would succeed Demna as artistic director at Balenciaga, saying only that it would be announced “in due course,” and that she is searching for a “high caliber” candidate who “can build on what has already been done very well at the brand and continue the success and continue to develop.”

According to market sources, Balenciaga has held discussions with designers including Alaïa’s buzzy creative director Pieter Mulier, and Kim Jones, who recently wound up eventful stints designing Dior menswear and Fendi’s women’s collections.

It is understood Balenciaga’s business is evenly split between men’s and women’s, a rarity among Europe’s large luxury players.

Analysts expressed disappointment by the sales miss of 2 to 3 percentage points.

“We are likely to see further caution applied to Kering’s full-year 2025 earnings estimates given company-specific issues compounded by a challenging luxury sector backdrop,” RBC analyst Piral Dadhania said in a research note.

“This confirms our understanding that the Gucci revival has yet to appear and will likely face a more difficult context as luxury consumer demand softens,” opined Bernstein’s Luca Solca.

Citing an “environment harsher than anyone anticipated,” Poulou said Kering is anticipating another double-digit revenue decline in the second quarter, though the second half of the year should be better than the first.

The numbers trailed the performance of Kering’s larger luxury rivals LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which reported a 3 percent dip in first-quarter revenues to 20.31 billion euros, and Hermès International, which bucked the trend and delivered a 7.2 percent improvement to 4.13 billion euros.

Kering reported double-digit declines across all regions in the first quarter of the year, with Asia-Pacific down 25 percent, in line with the last three months of 2024, the company noted.

However, Western Europe and North America fell 13 percent, and Japan 11 percent, representing a sequential deceleration.

First-quarter sales at Bottega Veneta improved 4 percent, reflecting gains “across all product categories,” and Kering Eyewear logged a 3 percent increase at comparable exchange rates. Meanwhile, Saint Laurent sank 9 percent and “other houses,” which includes Balenciaga, McQueen, Pomellato and Brioni, declined 11 percent.

While “the performance of Balenciaga’s leather goods was very solid,” sales were down at McQueen, still finding its footing under designer Seán McGirr, Kering said.

Bellettini noted that despite the low-traffic environment, all brands are improving on average ticket price. However, to fuel first-time purchases, brands are also revamping key leather goods lines for more “aspirational customers,” such as Saint Laurent’s Loulou range, she added.

The group closed a total of 25 stores in the quarter — including 10 at Gucci and a “substantial streamlining” at McQueen — leaving it with a network of 1,788 locations. Retail accounts for 73 percent of group revenues, and these were down 16 percent in the period. Wholesale decreased 9 percent.

“As we had anticipated, Kering faced a difficult start to the year,” François-Henri Pinault, Kering chairman and chief executive officer, said in a statement issued Wednesday after the close of trading on the Paris bourse.

“In this environment, we are fully focused on executing on our action plans to reach our strategic and financial objectives and strengthen the positioning of our houses on all our markets,” Pinault said. “We are increasing our vigilance to weather the macroeconomic headwinds our industry faces, and I am convinced that we will come out stronger from the present situation.”

Poulou told the call she saw no change in sales trends so far in the second quarter.

“The U.S. in [first quarter] was similar to [the fourth quarter]. We don’t see any change in trends, but of course we remain vigilant,” she said. “We remain extremely cautious.”

Asked if Kering would pursue price increases to mitigate the impact of Trump administration tariffs, she said “we need more clarity” before acting and “we must consider consumer confidence in geo-pricing.

“Top-line recovery is our absolute priority,” she stressed.
WWD
 
I guess they want a 50% drop
to build on what has already been done very well at the brands and continue the success and continue to develop.”

:-)she loves to build upon things that work so well and repeat it often in her statements lol gucci is build upon with demna balenciaga will be builded upon what has been done YSL has been built upon since Hedi left .........

Nottage will be another build upon since lee left more water to th wine that's the way forward at Kering & Co

keep building compounding :-)
 
to build on what has already been done very well at the brands and continue the success and continue to develop.”

:-)she loves to build upon things that work so well and repeat it often in her statements lol gucci is build upon with demna balenciaga will be builded upon what has been done YSL has been built upon since Hedi left .........

Nottage will be another build upon since lee left more water to th wine that's the way forward at Kering & Co

keep building compounding :-)
i wonder when/if they will announce the new balenciaga person? :zorro:
 
haha!!

do we have any clues who it will be? :aliens: :brows: :aliens: :brows:
No more than the names said online (some friend told me last pieter is running candidate but could not ask if it was from online gossip or direct news with actual person with the knowledge )---but the shift will be as Demna is taking /building his team he will take his gang with him to Gucci.

i would not be surprised they take Kim Jones as he can do mens and womens but than Bellatini loves to keep what was already built at each brand and tend to hire a copy of the copy as we seen at Bottega.
 

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