Demna Gvasalia - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[jeanclaude]

So...now, all of a sudden, wearing a black leather jacket and faded jeans makes you "evil" and "dark"...

gstatic.com

 

[Frederic01]

IMMACULATE STYLE

 

[FashionPower]

Hope Demna ditches the Lallo logo Marmont belt or reworks it cause it looks tacky af, especially when the buckle is larger than the belt itself lol

 

[youthinasia]

IMMACULATE STYLE

Already insufferable.

 

[PDFSD]

Hope Demna ditches the Lallo logo Marmont belt or reworks it cause it looks tacky af, especially when the buckle is larger than the belt itself lol

its merchandiser big greed lazy presence as ancora also kept (asked to keep) using it like there are no other 200 version of the gucci g in archive´s they still sell frida´s gg belt also thats kering laziness that forever keeps the brand cheap.

the renamed as marmont gg belt tom ford used it for his 70s john lennon inspired fw 2001 collection already taken from the archive the first version was like the chanel logo two opposite g x g ´s linking back to back but that gucci had to stop using as chanel lawyers protested at the that time as the gucci families got always inspired by hermes and things around them like the jackie being a copy of the hermes trim bag etc

Lallo being 70´s boho crazy reused it and it became a staple for the current gucci, the issue is that that marmont gg is so round and 70´s that it does not look modern on clean silhouettes why Ancora´s forced use of it never worked its just belongs to and different era and design code /world

Demna is making same mistake where as Tom knew how to keep his G logo´s hard wear fitted for each collection era 60´s 70´s 80´s even had many products with just R (registered trademark sign) GUCCI Made in Italy metal plack or as engraving on hard wear as logo no G´s


the first version of the now named marmont gg as Chanel CC logo no longer used


later replaced by the opposite facing gg´s that got restyled many times as times changed 70´s 80´s 90´s 00´s

 

[Salvatore]

I am always here for a @PDFSD history lesson.

 

[PDFSD]

I am always here for a @PDFSD history lesson.

its more fact checking the basics, i hate discussions where people have half truths or info and its get muddy and just based on feelings of individuals it leads to surface level online mud fights.

i like when others give intel i did not know or only partly was aware of etc it makes for better analysis and discussions.
mainstream fashion media even on social media or youtube channel are boring and full of *** kissing and there is not critical analyze only praise or reporting after the fact is clear that they can't deny the disaster.

i am looking for reasons to still like this fashion thing it's getting harder , i think with longevity wellness and tec taking the forefront the idea of creative (fashion) dressing will be come far lower priority as a cultural and luxury thing as art is also dismantled by the tech giants to mere data, fashion is already on the same path.

the fatigue in believing that luxury fashion is special is accelerated by the flattening of fashion creativity and quality and why i am so critical of many new creative directors having no point of view or story telling but just an assimilation of modernity/progress or vague idea of an story is the death of creative fashion by humans.

they are just making it come to fruition as the paycheck does not hurt , and corporate greed is all time high.

but who want to talk about all this in fashion lol

we like to see our opinions be heard more than seeing the facts and longer view on past and future , all that matters is now .....sadly.

 

[yslforever]

he is doing an italian gucci exactitudes mixed and dumbed down as he did at balenciaga cosplay of types stereotypes its not all italy but there is more of it then his past balenciaga which had more Berghain and eastern europe rave chilches mixed with metal heads goths and (internet) subcultures .....

few more weeks and curious how the public will react the irony of cosplay will go over many peoples head some will see it as a seal of approval of there good taste :-) others will see its as boring , its a flea market for everyone best way to describe it.

all like throwing overcooked pasta in the air and see what sticks to the ceiling. it might be even successful as michele gucci had same way of doing 100 looks in shows.

demna likes bad taste that leans to dystopia he won't lose his simplistic replication of cliches, trick will be if he can scale it for a big brand like gucci that has to speak to so many people like a supermarket ala LV with a positive non offensive fashion luxury seeking wider audience he is not at erewhon any more.

Reading you (and thank you for your input btw), I semi-expect now an hommage to La Cicciolina but goth, or to Berlusconi's veline but darkmood.
This I would like. Did I understand well ?

 

[Salvatore]

its more fact checking the basics, i hate discussions where people have half truths or info and its get muddy and just based on feelings of individuals it leads to surface level online mud fights.

i like when others give intel i did not know or only partly was aware of etc it makes for better analysis and discussions.
mainstream fashion media even on social media or youtube channel are boring and full of *** kissing and there is not critical analyze only praise or reporting after the fact is clear that they can't deny the disaster.

i am looking for reasons to still like this fashion thing it's getting harder , i think with longevity wellness and tec taking the forefront the idea of creative (fashion) dressing will be come far lower priority as a cultural and luxury thing as art is also dismantled by the tech giants to mere data, fashion is already on the same path.

the fatigue in believing that luxury fashion is special is accelerated by the flattening of fashion creativity and quality and why i am so critical of many new creative directors having no point of view or story telling but just an assimilation of modernity/progress or vague idea of an story is the death of creative fashion by humans.

they are just making it come to fruition as the paycheck does not hurt , and corporate greed is all time high.

but who want to talk about all this in fashion lol

we like to see our opinions be heard more than seeing the facts and longer view on past and future , all that matters is now .....sadly.

You're 100% right and I get it about the disenchantment with the way the industry is now. I do think the fashion industry and society is bound to hit another crucial crucible where we are forced to review and redo habits in production and consumption. I am not sure what that would look like, but it's coming. I cannot remember where I read it (TFS or somewhere else) but someone said the commodity and status symbol will be "100% Human Made" or something like this. My fiancé believes that also the bigger and most luxurious houses/brands will differentiate themselves from the rest by getting the real thing - real models, real stylists, real locations, real products ... humans - as perhaps AI will soon be associated with budget and cheap if not executed or used correctly. I agree with it all in a way. People will want to feel things again. It's already switching to where experiences are the luxury item. Why ? Because while it may be fleeting, it leaves an impression and it is real. This is why I also don't believe fashion shows will ever be replaced. People want fantasy and storytelling, but in reality if that makes sense. None of this vapid, empty, soulless stuff fodder that is being churned out.

My all-time favourites Daft Punk ended in 2021 (I cried lol) due to the fact Thomas Bangalter wanting to distance himself/themselves from technology and AI's role in creativity. If the robots don't want to be robots anymore because it's not novel or cool anymore in 2025, I think it says what's bound to come.

TL;DR we're probably going to love and pride ourselves again on using our brains for creativity, critical thinking, and problem solving and opting for mostly the real, soulful, and human over the synthetic, empty, and soulless.

(Sorry lol I am nearly 43 hours in on a 60 hour fast/jeûne and my brain feels wide open. Or I'm just hangry and hangry typing lol 😂)

 

[PDFSD]

Reading you (and thank you for your input btw), I semi-expect now an hommage to La Cicciolina but goth, or to Berlusconi's veline but darkmood.
This I would like. Did I understand well ?

gucci x italian x exactitudes It's really a mix of identities some obvious italian cliches some not , yes his dark mood/bad taste is cool mood is prevalent for sure he not a changed man.

Berlusconi mistress are a thing yes :-) i would say also party girls also jackie O and the jackie bag all a bit more f up via say via model casting choice more than the look itself.
i am curious how people read it and how market reacts.

Demna many clothes without the model or set is usually very normal if you take away any exacteraction of silhouette or items

like this look below its basically a BCBG look but with some perversion in the shoes or stiff silhouette or the (with health condition) model look or walk as you seen in the last HC show

i would say its more a flea market of the house of gucci the movie characters only its not all 70´s lol but all decades mixed

i think if they do a show as understood recently for september he might put more extreme things to spice it up as the drop is already made , if not the next real show in march will have more of his show pieces to gather press and hype attention the september drop was to fill commercial gap and warm up the taste for the 7th new gucci since tom ford lol

 

[fenty]

IMMACULATE STYLE

Nah..

 

[PDFSD]

You're 100% right and I get it about the disenchantment with the way the industry is now. I do think the fashion industry and society is bound to hit another crucial crucible where we are forced to review and redo habits in production and consumption. I am not sure what that would look like, but it's coming. I cannot remember where I read it (TFS or somewhere else) but someone said the commodity and status symbol will be "100% Human Made" or something like this. My fiancé believes that also the bigger and most luxurious houses/brands will differentiate themselves from the rest by getting the real thing - real models, real stylists, real locations, real products ... humans - as perhaps AI will soon be associated with budget and cheap if not executed or used correctly. I agree with it all in a way. People will want to feel things again. It's already switching to where experiences are the luxury item. Why ? Because while it may be fleeting, it leaves an impression and it is real. This is why I also don't believe fashion shows will ever be replaced. People want fantasy and storytelling, but in reality if that makes sense. None of this vapid, empty, soulless stuff fodder that is being churned out.

My all-time favourites Daft Punk ended in 2021 (I cried lol) due to the fact Thomas Bangalter wanting to distance himself/themselves from technology and AI's role in creativity. If the robots don't want to be robots anymore because it's not novel or cool anymore in 2025, I think it says what's bound to come.

TL;DR we're probably going to love and pride ourselves again on using our brains for creativity, critical thinking, and problem solving and opting for mostly the real, soulful, and human over the synthetic, empty, and soulless.

(Sorry lol I am nearly 43 hours in on a 60 hour fast/jeûne and my brain feels wide open. Or I'm just hangry and hangry typing lol 😂)

we're probably going to love and pride ourselves again on using our brains for creativity, critical thinking, and problem solving and opting for mostly the real, soulful, and human over the synthetic, empty, and soulless.

I hate to be the party downer but how will this happen? if tech via social media and tech as in AI made people more stupid like literally , AI users displayed the "weakest" brain connectivity in a new MIT study that hints AI use harms critical thinking while social media is responsible for depression, fake news and part of data survelice economie etc etc

even on this forum critical thinking is constantly under attack and homogenized into linking or not liking boxes

i am not sure the man made will have such relevance as they get better at growing animal skins and less people will want to work as there is universal basic income , i think values will shift in regards to use of raw materials and human labour.

when AI is using so much drinking water to cool off making cities run dry and electricity outage or increases cost for local citizen where they have a AI data center the environment is put more under stress.

the technocrates have different values toward luxury or fashion i see hard luxury survive a bit longer that soft luxury as hard luxury like watches and cars are more obviously technical and closer to technology understanding of value

I know LV is working for years on improvement of their PC coated canvas bags as eu rules get stricter and at one point be not aloud the chemicals used for the coating , chanel has investments in longevity and tech behind the scenes etc etc

i see the value of brands and what material and how the are made change with time also the idea of hand made as top luxury wich hermes is the only one beside couture or tailors in italy or london or some shoes makers or rolce royce etc for efficiency and saving of what's left of the planet there will be a change forced by laws or gradually implemented via willinges for innovation.

i am more sceptical of this dream of return to commodity and status symbol will be "100% Human Made" or most luxurious houses/brands will differentiate themselves from the rest by getting the real thing - real models, real stylists, real locations, real products .

because there will not be much real left either because environmental impact or need for it or the education to have the desire

 

[yslforever]

gucci x italian x exactitudes It's really a mix of identities some obvious italian cliches some not , yes his dark mood/bad taste is cool mood is prevalent for sure he not a changed man.

Berlusconi mistress are a thing yes :-) i would say also party girls also jackie O and the jackie bag all a bit more f up via say via model casting choice more than the look itself.
i am curious how people read it and how market reacts.

Demna many clothes without the model or set is usually very normal if you take away any exacteraction of silhouette or items

like this look below its basically a BCBG look but with some perversion in the shoes or stiff silhouette or the (with health condition) model look or walk as you seen in the last HC show

i would say its more a flea market of the house of gucci the movie characters only its not all 70´s lol but all decades mixed

i think if they do a show as understood recently for september he might put more extreme things to spice it up as the drop is already made , if not the next real show in march will have more of his show pieces to gather press and hype attention the september drop was to fill commercial gap and warm up the taste for the 7th new gucci since tom ford lol

View attachment 1401318View attachment 1401319

I am really really curious now.

 

[PDFSD]

I am really really curious now.

oh no!!!!! i feel like i am over selling it now lol

 

[yslforever]

oh no!!!!! i feel like i am over selling it now lol

morbid curiosity I confess ....

 

[jeanclaude]

We still have real designers, real stylists, real etc...and look at the poor result!! Human made is not a guarantee enough for something to be special. And AI made does not guarantees it either (after all AI has been created by humans).

 

[PDFSD]

We still have real designers, real stylists, real etc...and look at the poor result!! Human made is not a guarantee enough for something to be special. And AI made does not guarantees it either (after all AI has been created by humans).

agree on both 100%for now not in long term ...as the not so secret goal is that AI will surpass human intelligence so the effects of this is unclear
some brands already use AI models which is basic still , but when even hermes have a dedicated Artificial Intelligence Governance Committee one should sit up straight and read the fine print for what's coming.

Hermès’ strategy is the 2025 announcement of its dedicated Artificial Intelligence Governance Committee. This is not a technical subcommittee but a high-level strategic body. Its explicit mandate is to oversee all uses of AI across the company, with a specific focus on managing risks to intellectual property, preserving creative integrity, and safeguarding long-term brand value. The committee is tasked with listing all AI projects, identifying and correcting biases, managing technology quality (including precision, robustness, and transparency), and taking ultimate responsibility for the company’s approach.

In establishing this body, Hermès has been transparent about its current position: AI use is “limited” and intentionally confined to non-core operational areas such as IT support, supply chain optimization, and internal reporting, primarily through external cloud-based platforms.
The company has drawn a clear and unambiguous red line: “Creative and artisanal processes will remain entirely human-led”. This declaration is a direct response to the disruptive potential of generative AI, which can create a facsimile of a “Birkin” from a simple text prompt, thereby threatening to dilute the brand’s carefully guarded IP.23 The committee’s purpose is to proactively address the fundamental question of what creative authorship means in the age of AI and to define precisely “where a brand draws the line”.

the point of AI is that already we humans can't control it, things like hallucinations (making non factual statements as the truth much like on this forum lol ), robots/drones are also human made but does not mean we can outsmart them even worse when operated by AI.

training a tiger or elephant tricks is on thing in the circus but AI is a new animal with no boundaries of a wip and Cage.
humans are awesome but also fragile and stupid

 

[jeanclaude]

agree on both 100%for now not in long term ...as the not so secret goal is that AI will surpass human intelligence so the effects of this is unclear
some brands already use AI models which is basic still , but when even hermes have a dedicated Artificial Intelligence Governance Committee one should sit up straight and read the fine print for what's coming.

Hermès’ strategy is the 2025 announcement of its dedicated Artificial Intelligence Governance Committee. This is not a technical subcommittee but a high-level strategic body. Its explicit mandate is to oversee all uses of AI across the company, with a specific focus on managing risks to intellectual property, preserving creative integrity, and safeguarding long-term brand value. The committee is tasked with listing all AI projects, identifying and correcting biases, managing technology quality (including precision, robustness, and transparency), and taking ultimate responsibility for the company’s approach.

In establishing this body, Hermès has been transparent about its current position: AI use is “limited” and intentionally confined to non-core operational areas such as IT support, supply chain optimization, and internal reporting, primarily through external cloud-based platforms.
The company has drawn a clear and unambiguous red line: “Creative and artisanal processes will remain entirely human-led”. This declaration is a direct response to the disruptive potential of generative AI, which can create a facsimile of a “Birkin” from a simple text prompt, thereby threatening to dilute the brand’s carefully guarded IP.23 The committee’s purpose is to proactively address the fundamental question of what creative authorship means in the age of AI and to define precisely “where a brand draws the line”.

the point of AI is that already we humans can't control it, things like hallucinations (making non factual statements as the truth much like on this forum lol ), robots/drones are also human made but does not mean we can outsmart them even worse when operated by AI.

training a tiger or elephant tricks is on thing in the circus but AI is a new animal with no boundaries of a wip and Cage.
humans are awesome but also fragile and stupid

imgflip.com

 

[Lola701]

We still have real designers, real stylists, real etc...and look at the poor result!! Human made is not a guarantee enough for something to be special. And AI made does not guarantees it either (after all AI has been created by humans).

But there’s also something great with the idea of « poor results », inconsistency. That’s the human side too. The idea of being influenced, to propose something representative of it time and to appreciate it differently at different times of our lives.
Has fashion ever been great as we age though? Or rather our perception of fashion I should say.

The only danger with AI for me it’s laziness. Because in some ways, the « formulas » of AI are not so different from the « formulas » of a veteran. But there’s something inherent to real humans that allows them to push things forward.

 

[Salvatore]

We still have real designers, real stylists, real etc...and look at the poor result!! Human made is not a guarantee enough for something to be special. And AI made does not guarantees it either (after all AI has been created by humans).

Okay, granted I have been playing around with AI to help with some designs that I have sketched and, 9 times out of 10, AI is inaccurate even though my sketch is clear and concise. It's frustrating in a way because it's boxed in and it's basic in its thinking. So I don't think that AI can really replace true creativity or creatives because they'd feel restricted or like the true vision hasn't come there, if they know what they want. That's how I feel, at least. Also AI is, in my mind, supposed to be an extension of the brain, not a replacement for it. You need to be able to challenge it and not take everything it says or does as final law or complete truth. I am not saying that Human Made vs AI means that inherently Human is better or AI is worse, but when it comes to true creativity, it won't really matter so people need to start using their brains again is all.