Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[bc collector]

You sure about that?

Yes, and have a look: at least half of them are bots.

 

[GERGIN]

Yes, and have a look: at least half of them are bots.

What I meant was in the state of fashion, the standards are so low for fashion houses hiring new talent as long as they built some hype around their choice. Therefore, I am not sure it's surprising that they hired this person given their low expectations as long as he creates poorly designed, colorful pieces that will give the brand some short-term recognition from the young millenial/Gen Z group who do not have the money to buy it...

 

[THD96]

Never heard of this brand before. But I'm exciting for another Haider project.

 

[Olaffo]

I love that for him but Maison Ullens produces only womenswear so nothing to get for me...

I am also worried about him as he cancelled his shows recently and I am not so sure if he comes back this season.

 

[GERGIN]

I love that for him but Maison Ullens produces only womenswear so nothing to get for me...

I am also worried about him as he cancelled his shows recently and I am not so sure if he comes back this season.

*only produces womenswear, for now...

It's 2021 Dahling, if Haider can design womenswear for Berluti, he can design menswear at Maison Ullens!

 

[Olaffo]

*only produces womenswear, for now...

It's 2021 Dahling, if Haider can design womenswear for Berluti, he can design menswear at Maison Ullens!

I am keeping my fingers crossed, praying to the st Karl and gambling until I'll bankrupt already!

 

[Lola701]

Seriously, I’m happy to know that Haider’s voice will be « heard » again wherever he goes...
Seriously, the French fashion scene failed him!
He needs to be at Hermès! I’m trying to understand why it’s not happening! And menswear AND womenswear!

 

[Koibito]

Salvatore Ferregamo

Out: Paul Andrew

Source: BoF

 

[helmutnotdead]

*pretends to be shocked*

 

[JohannesL]

Not shocked, but sad to hear this news since I cannot stand another hype designer who might take over this brand and turned it into a nightmare.

 

[Yasouss]

I really wanted to like what he was offering for the house. The S/S 2021 video campaign by Luca Guadagnino and the F/W 2019 campaign were really beautiful and luxurious and had hints of the old Gucci by Frida, but I am afraid there was no strong cohesive brand image or a strong look other than being luxe.

I hope he goes somewhere good, and I hope whoever replaces him doesn't turn it into another hype streetwear focused brand, or worse, another Bottega copycat.

 

[bc collector]

Salvatore Ferregamo

Out: Paul Andrew

Really, the rumour had been circulating for a while already.
I have to say, despite the fact that I was not crazy about PA's work at the house, I am sorry at the same time, because he tried to push the brand forward a bit and it could have been the perfect occasion to give the Ferragamo business its due, which is to say, create some wonderful, directional style of shoes, and it did not happen, shoemaking being Andrew's core talent notwithstanding.
The RTW was hits and misses, but more of the latter, and the last collection was a punch in the eye.

There is a whole case to make, at this point, about the house potential to really build an identity that goes beyond the bland, bourgeois airport-boutique genre. I think it was la Wintour who, asked for an opinion, a few years ago (maybe still during the Graeme Black era), blurted out: "Is somebody forcing them to do RTW?" (these might not be the exact words, but that is the gist). And this time round they do not even have the excuse of the old generation of the family, starting from the late Wanda, who precluded the design team from moving away from the stale image of the brand...

 

[Benn98]

Sad, but expected. I liked his Ferragamo, at least initially. You can't say he didn't try. Whatever went wrong is on the operational side, not on him. They didn't know how to package his collections despite the fact that he was the editor's choice and had a strong menswear following.

This is an awful situation for both Paul and Ferragamo. Nobody would want to hire a CD who got ousted (we all know that's what happened here), and only a CD in need of money would take on the Ferragamo job because the house is already plagued by issues.

 

[Lola701]

They needs to court Frida Giannini! I still believe she is the perfect one for the job!

My only hope if they make the right decision of calling her is that she has moved on from her horribly cut skinny pants.

 

[MyNameIs]

Salvatore Ferregamo

Out: Paul Andrew

Source: BoF

YES!!! I hated what was happening over there.

 

[THD96]

Hope he will back to the scene with a stronger vision for his own house.

Salvatore Ferragamo suits hear me out. Clare Waight Keller.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Just when his work was starting to speak for itself. In my opinion, the “real Italian craftsmanship” label that has defined the brand was seen more often in his recent menswear more so than his womenswear. His final Spring collection was actually very strong. Frankly though, he is replaceable and at the end of the day, that is the present state of the industry whether we like it or not. Nearly everyone is replaceable, the gears keep turning.

 

[fakeawake]

Ferragamo should not abandon it's airport luxe aesthetic. I fear they are going to hire someone like Christopher Kane.

Boring people need clothes too, can't just force them into sneakers or chanel couture if they don't want it. Look at Armani, proof not everyone cares about looking like an ig model and some just want quality clothes that don't draw attention.

I've always liked Ferragamo because it was the right kind of boring, meaning it goes with other designers without clashing.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ Boring people need clothes too

 

[TianCouture]

IDK Trigère is back again? Same designer as 2018 but more open to the public. Story is on WWD. It's stupid.