Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Lola701]

Maybe at Pucci. Sometimes I feel they forget about this brand, but Pucci has good potential to producing silk clothes and accessories.


These strange strategies due to Antoine wanted copy Alexandre idea for Rimowa, but he doesn't have taste and understand Berluti customers.



IMO @Lola701 has right. LVMH problems is lack of taste Arnault's kids. All family look like classic dull bourgeois. They are hard-working but not fashion lovers. They promote designer whom they like. In Kering you have different people focused on customers and profit but they are more brutal when profit it is not appropriate.

I don’t know/think that having the heir of Pucci allows them to take real advantage of the brand. The success of Peter Dundas probably surprised everybody there but unfortunately, the dynamic stopped once he left.

And no, being bourgeois and dull (which is not the case in fact) is not an issue. When I say taste of fashion, it has more to do with standing on for an aesthetic, a particular vision. We can all agree that there’s a sense of coherence between having Phoebe, Nicolas and Raf in the group. Even having Haider (which is all about the influence of Delphine) made sense. It’s strong from an « editorial POV » but it also tied with the shift in the market.

MGC was very promising at the beginning. Her first Couture wasn’t terrible...

I think that Antoine doesn’t understand the luxury market which is funny because in substance, he is the Berluti customer. Delphine wanted Nicolas and she mostly wears Vuitton. Alexandre understand his generation. He is the perfect customer. When you see him, he has a very basic style...Like most young people but he is into al the things millenials are into. Or at least, he understand it. Rimowa now is a status symbol. In a way, Berluti is a PR success because at least, it’s part of a conversation.

Promoting designers you like is not an issue. The issue is thinking in terms of short term boost of sales.
Those 3 years contracts are starting to become a sign of defeat because they kinda shows a lack of confidence.

Kering is a different group. They started their involvement in fashion 20 years ago and they like to believe that they are into meritocracy...And in substance, it’s true as the number 2 became the number 1.

When it comes to Berluti, maybe they should call back Ozwald Boateng. After all, his Savile Row customer probably has Berluti shoes in his closet...

 

[donyan]

it’s now official
Lutz Huelle is out at Delpozo
Lutz Huelle y Delpozo ponen fin a su relación creativa

 

[vetements]

it’s now official
Lutz Huelle is out at Delpozo
Lutz Huelle y Delpozo ponen fin a su relación creativa

what a shame, the point is now if they will even hire anyone, at all...

delpozo produces such timeless, beautiful clothes over the years... wonder will kering/ lvmh buy it over?

 

[YohjiAddict]

At this pace LVMH will run out of decent menswear designers to chew up and spit out...

At least KVA's got to redeem himself from his last few shows at Dior Homme, they were so awfully insipid...

About DelPozo, it's such a shame what's happening to that house. The other day I caught a spanish TV reportage of Josep Font's tenure where they interviewed him, the execs and his creative team and everyone seemed so commited to making DelPozo synonymous with excellence and creativity. A true rarity. Sybilla would be my dream choice but I guess she has totally given up on fashion design and the failure of her own brand would otherwise render it completely unlikely to occur.

 

[donyan]

sorry I had not seen there is also the English version
Lutz Huelle and Delpozo end creative partnership

it's probably for the best, I for one didn't expect anything anymore after all this time, the moment and the excitement I had felt in the beginning had long passed.

 

[Nomar]

I think Kris is actually a really talented designer and although I liked his work at Berluti, he really should have stayed at Dior Homme. He had a modern sophistication that Kim Jones lacks.

 

[eugenius]

Lutz posted a few images of his some of his completed garments for Delpozo on his IG page..very good stuff! From the few images he posted, it definitely looked like he was onto something great. It looked like what Balenciaga could very well look like in the modern age, IMO. But, sadly, it just wasn't meant to be.

How KVA manages to snag high-profile menswear jobs is beyond me. There's never really been anything noteworthy about any of his work..not in his own line, not in Dior, and especially not Berluti (which I immediately forgot about). I suspect any and all hype around him was based solely on the fact that he was w/ Hedi, when Hedi meant something, but that was how many years ago?

 

[fashionista-ta]

^^ I agree, would be nice to see something interesting happen at Pucci.

 

[perhydrol]

Kenzo

Out: Felipe Oliveira Baptista

 

[Marc10]

 

[helmutnotdead]

I didn’t see that coming.

at this point I’m completely tired to support anything new in the fashion system.

 

[helmutnotdead]

damn, I’m upset!

 

[perhydrol]

^Congratulations to LVMH for giving two-year contracts. Soon we'll have designers stepping down after 6 months.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I don't know why but I can sense KVA being hired for Kenzo. His rainbows suits would please better there than at Berluti (in LVMH's mind).

They like KVA too much to let him unemployed. His recent obsession with contemporary artists, hybrid sneakers and some of his ambassadors make me think they could consider him.

 

[THD96]

What the hell happened with LVMH lately? they gonna have new designers every 12 months. Dalphine darling you better use all your power to keep Jonathan and Loewe stay together.

FOB is a perfect fit for Kenzo, the house finally have a strong artistic POV. The suits clearly doesn't know what to do with Kenzo so they keep changing the direction.

FOB is talented so I hope he get Salvatore Ferragamo or Hermes. He can be so good at Hermes. This make me appreciate Hermes even more because at least when a designer leave the house they leave when they want not when their contract get expired

 

[Lola701]

Finally. It didn’t took off right away and for a brand in that contemporary segment, you needs to sell clothes.
KVA for Kenzo sounds appealing even if I wonder if it will also mean an increase in prices...

2 years contracts is a first and it has maybe to do with the positioning of the house.

Unlike for Haider, I’m actually not upset.

 

[bc collector]

This is a joke, right?

p.s.: I hope the KVA rumor is not true. If at LVMH they are really so goddamned fond of the guy, why don't they just fund his namesake label instead of removing from their post other more talented designers before they even have time to drop their luggage on the floor?

 

[RaisinBoy]

This is becoming pathetic. The guy showed what, three collections in total? I loved what he did at Kenzo (sans the weird beekeeper capes), and he should have been given an opportunity to develop his vision.

Next year, the guy at Givenchy will be out, I can feel it.

I'm over LVMH at this point.

 

[Deleted member 119799]

I'm over LVMH at this point.

Same, i don't understand people complaining about what LVMH and Kering are doing to fashion, while at the same time throwing money at them.
At the same I have very little sympathy for all these designers going to work for them and getting kicked out after a couple of years, this is what you get.

 

[Lola701]

There's a sad truth about Felipe.
His work was maybe runway gold but it didn't really had an impact on what has been the bread and butter for the house since the shift of positioning.
His Kenzo was a bubble for the runway.

Ultimately, the problem at LVMH has to do with bad castings. They are testing things instead of merging two strong vision.

Felipe is good but he doesn't have a clear identifiable style. Matthew Williams is another flop and while Berluti has had great designer, there's clearly a lack of vision on "what to do".

I never understood why they didn't gave Kenzo at some of the winners of the LVMH Prize. There are enough unemployed, stars designers who can do Givenchy...

What the hell happened with LVMH lately? they gonna have new designers every 12 months. Dalphine darling you better use all your power to keep Jonathan and Loewe stay together.

FOB is a perfect fit for Kenzo, the house finally have a strong artistic POV. The suits clearly doesn't know what to do with Kenzo so they keep changing the direction.

FOB is talented so I hope he get Salvatore Ferragamo or Hermes. He can be so good at Hermes. This make me appreciate Hermes even more because at least when a designer leave the house they leave when they want not when their contract get expired

LOEWE is one of the biggest success of the group. If Anderson leaves, much like Phoebe and Riccardo, it will be on his terms...