Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

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It seems that Kering is much more responsible in a way, they actually give some time to develop a proper vision and believe in talents that used to be working behind the scenes. At the same time LVMH expects something unachieveable, for example a huge commercial success within three collections during the ongoing pandemic. All they want to get is the hype around their houses, but they just can't get it right. Kering brands create the hype around them in an organic way, while LVMH brands rely solely on the reputation of their designers.

At the end of the day, the conglomerates create an extremely toxic environment and the situation will get worse thanks to the LVMH's two-year contracts.
 
perhydrol said:
It seems that Kering is much more responsible in a way, they actually give some time to develop a proper vision and believe in talents that used to be working behind the scenes. At the same time LVMH expects something unachieveable, for example a huge commercial success within three collections during the ongoing pandemic. All they want to get is the hype around their houses, but they just can't get it right. Kering brands create the hype around them in an organic way, while LVMH brands rely solely on the reputation of their designers.

At the end of the day, the conglomerates create an extremely toxic environment and the situation will get worse thanks to the LVMH's two-year contracts.
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You only have that impression because Kering has less brands. In terms of stability in their top brands, they are quite similar. Nicolas is going on 10 years at Vuitton, MGC hasn't reached her 5 years at Dior, Fendi was quite stable, the same for Celine and Loewe has been quite stable and consistent.

At Kering they have like 4 brands (Gucci, YSL, BV and McQueen) and their strength is that they don't even have to rely on the success of the collections. They just pours products....
 
Lola701 said:
Felipe is good but he doesn't have a clear identifiable style
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That might be true - actually I agree on that - but it was something the people at LVMH could have realised before hiring him (btw, I don't think Carol and Leon had such style either, they were just cool kids whom the suits thought - quite rightly - they could cash on).
I struggle to understand the rationale behind such choices: either you hire someone because you believe he has talent and you leave him time to develop a vision (like they did with Riccardo) or you hire someone for instant gratification: why not go straightaway with Chiara Ferragni, at that point?

Plus, I would say, I think it is quite unfair to assess POV's work under the current economic climate, it sounds like Kenzo was expected to perform brilliantly with the stores closed.

p.s: just to be clear, Ferragni is just a random example, I'm not suggesting they should hire her...
 
I’m sure this is all done just to put KVA in his place. The timing with his berluti exit is too fitting. It doesn’t matter what Felipe did or did not achieve during his tenure, LVMH will have KVA in all their brands and someone better will always get the boot because of that.
 
rip_ian curtis said:
I’m sure this is all done just to put KVA in his place. The timing with his berluti exit is too fitting. It doesn’t matter what Felipe did or did not achieve during his tenure, LVMH will have KVA in all their brands and someone better will always get the boot because of that.
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I would be very ashamed if I am KVA, keep having failed attempts and having daddy coming to the rescue, putting you in a position that "I think will suit you better" whilst at the same time, kicking out others that are more deserving of it.

I like the freshness Felipe brought to the house, marrying both street vibes and artsy design flair, and it was definitely many notches above his predecessors. In time to come, I think he could even slowly move the house to what Takeda Kenzo created it for...

That said, I also agree with Lola that they can bring an LVMH Prize winner for Kenzo, at this point, it has become somewhat of an experimenting place.....
 
Excerpts from the BOF article about FOB:

“The former Lacoste creative director is set to leave the brand when his contract expires in June, as LVMH re-examines underperforming units.”

“Kenzo has struggled to renew its image as interest in its embroidered tiger sweatshirts and low-top sneakers cooled.

The label tapped Oliveira Baptista following the departure of Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the founders of the New York boutique Opening Ceremony. Their streetwear-inspired revamp sparked renewed interest in the label upon their arrival in 2011, but the momentum proved difficult to maintain.

While other LVMH brands have reinforced their position as top-priced luxury names with exclusive retail strategies, Kenzo has been stuck at a premium price point. Its $250 sweatshirts are still easy to find in department stores and multi-brand boutiques (often at a discount).”

“Even industry juggernaut LVMH, whose Dior and Louis Vuitton labels have bounced back quickly, has been cracking down on underperforming units: the group ceased operations of shirtmaker Thomas Pink, unwound its joint venture with shoemaker Nicholas Kirkwood, and put Rihanna’s Fenty ready-to-wear start-up on hold. As recently as last week it cut loose another creative director, Kris Van Assche, who had served as Berluti’s designer since 2018.”
 
Lola701 said:
There's a sad truth about Felipe.
His work was maybe runway gold but it didn't really had an impact on what has been the bread and butter for the house since the shift of positioning.
His Kenzo was a bubble for the runway.

Ultimately, the problem at LVMH has to do with bad castings. They are testing things instead of merging two strong vision.

Felipe is good but he doesn't have a clear identifiable style. Matthew Williams is another flop and while Berluti has had great designer, there's clearly a lack of vision on "what to do".

I never understood why they didn't gave Kenzo at some of the winners of the LVMH Prize. There are enough unemployed, stars designers who can do Givenchy...


LOEWE is one of the biggest success of the group. If Anderson leaves, much like Phoebe and Riccardo, it will be on his terms...
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No other collection has had as much editorial as the Kenzo SS21 , and I agree that it might have been more Runway Gold than product to sell , but somehow I feel that the problem lies not with the DA but the rest of the organisation. You have that much press and you don’t make it work? that’s not on the DA. That’s on whoever runs the place
 
In a way it's no surprise me if he get the job because he have the connection with the suits since he is one of LVMH prize contestants.

And his brand is really working well in that contemporary section that Kenzo is struggling since the last few years of the OC duo and under Felipe tenure. His brand categories are very similar with Kenzo (prints, entry level products, etc...) So the suits think he can make Kenzo cool again.

His IG followers is irrelevant to this appointment btw.
 
^^^
"The choice of Charaf also underlines the general strategy of LVMH to choose designers who generate plenty of social and traditional media heat. The Casablanca brand has 257,000 followers on Instagram.

“Casablanca is very happening right now. So LVMH has gone for buzz. Just like at Vuitton and at Dior. It’s part of the same pattern. Anyway, they probably only really wanted tiger T-shirts from Felipe,” commented one well-informed source"

Source: Fashionnetwork
 
I was just watching one of his Loic Prigent videos...Casablanca is a cool brand that knows how to make itself distinctive among so many other mid-range labels, the image reads to me as incredibly cheesy but if LVMH sees Kenzo's future as a bunch embroidered sweatshirt, Charaf is the man for the job, he's consistent and his thematic approach to each show is made for instagram.

I already miss Felipe...his debut was so marvelous.
 
bc collector said:
^^^
“Casablanca is very happening right now. So LVMH has gone for buzz. Just like at Vuitton and Dior. It’s part of the same pattern. Anyway, they probably only really wanted tiger T-shirts from Felipe,” commented one well-informed source"

Source: Fashionnetwork
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That quote is just tragic. Not only is it LVMH in a nutshell, but it also shows a complete lack of idea about what to do with the brand. At least they didn't go for Kris Van Assche and the actual appointment sounds interesting, but they'll need a lot of good luck to make the tiger a thing again. The market is already oversaturated with that motif thanks to the Opening Ceremony duo.
 
He declined the Versace job to accept Kenzo? It doesn’t make sense...
I’ll wait for the news to be confirmed...But yes, Casablanca has it buzz but the clothes are great...Beyond the IG followers.
 
Trussardi Appoints New Creative Directors
The Italian luxury company has tapped Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby, founders and designers of the Berlin-based GmbH brand, as its new creative directors.

Source: wwd

That's a weird one... sounds like someone is chasing cool in Berlin.
 
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