Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[vetements]

Ferragamo should not abandon it's airport luxe aesthetic. I fear they are going to hire someone like Christopher Kane.

Boring people need clothes too, can't just force them into sneakers or chanel couture if they don't want it. Look at Armani, proof not everyone cares about looking like an ig model and some just want quality clothes that don't draw attention.

I've always liked Ferragamo because it was the right kind of boring, meaning it goes with other designers without clashing.

If he had done a `Fear of God ZEGNA` gig, it might have just saved his life...such is the state of fashion these days sadly.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

^ Boring people need clothes too

If they want boring clothes they could always go to Bottega Veneta or Hermes. Out of the three, Hermes would probably be the best bang for the buck anyways.

 

[kasper!]

Frida Giannini is perfect for Ferragamo. She knows glamour, which is Ferragamo's DNA imo. This brand was like Jimmy Choo in the 50s, every star in Hollywood wore Ferragamo. Plus Frida started her career as an accessories designer, she knows footwear and leathergoods. I rememer the footwear department was still going very strong at the last few year of her reign at Gucci. Ferragamo is totally outdated these years, Paul Andrew just redesigned the iconic Vara pumps and that's all....

 

[kasper!]

And please do not forget the reason why Tom hired Frida is that she was a member of Silvia Venturini Fendi's team, which designed the iconic Baguette bag....

#FridaForFerragamo

 

[Lola701]

And please do not forget the reason why Tom hired Frida is that she was a member of Silvia Venturini Fendi's team, which designed the iconic Baguette bag....

#FridaForFerragamo

I hated her clothes but when it comes to bags, shoes (and furs), Frida knew her stuff. Her last few collections had some of the best timeless bags Gucci has had in it catalog. I still carry them and they looks less dated than the more recent ones by Alessandro.

She is the perfect fit for Ferragamo. Even when looking at her Gucci collections, they looks believable for Ferragamo.

 

[Deleted member 167090]

You guys do remind me of Frida's hit collections like FW2011 and FW2012. There's no doubt in our minds that she could do glamorous and sexy clothes or even good accessories, which is quite a good fit for Ferragamo! But there were a lot of times when we were wrong like Dundas for Cavalli and Copping for ODLR, to just name a few. I feel nowadays no one care more about the creative side of fashion than those of us in the TFS, and the people on the business side just want to cash out the brand as much as possible.It is no longer about matching designers to brands if we look at the long list of those mediocre designers reigning big brands. I think it is one of the reasons that most of us are suddenly missing those designers in our better time of fashion.

 

[Lola701]

You guys do remind me of Frida's hit collections like FW2011 and FW2012. There's no doubt in our minds that she could do glamorous and sexy clothes or even good accessories, which is quite a good fit for Ferragamo! But there were a lot of times when we were wrong like Dundas for Cavalli and Copping for ODLR, to just name a few. I feel nowadays no one care more about the creative side of fashion than those of us in the TFS, and the people on the business side just want to cash out the brand as much as possible.It is no longer about matching designers to brands if we look at the long list of those mediocre designers reigning big brands. I think it is one of the reasons that most of us are suddenly missing those designers in our better time of fashion.

You are right but tbh, it’s not like Frida was an outstanding designer at her time. Gucci was surely the less stimulating brand of Kering and certainly the less stimulating brand out of the big 10.

We didn’t have fireworks from Gucci so in a way I think that the expectations are somehow lower for both parties (the brand and the designer). The problem with a brand like Ferragamo is maybe the lack of coherence...

The house, despite the fact that it had never been a big player in the fashion landscape has always stand for something. And from Cristina Ortiz to Giornetti, there was some sort of coherence that they decided to destroy.

Even if they don’t choose Frida, to continue in that direction would be totally ridiculous. Nobody goes to Ferragamo for clothes so, there’s no need to propose a Celine inspired aesthetic when the market is saturated.

Frida praised MGC’s work for Dior so I guess she is still in that sort of basic lane she was. But she knows how to sell the idea of Glamour and she is good as accessoires.

She was a precursor in that sort of Zara deluxe fashion after all. She would maybe have better reviews today than she had before.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

You guys do remind me of Frida's hit collections like FW2011 and FW2012. There's no doubt in our minds that she could do glamorous and sexy clothes or even good accessories, which is quite a good fit for Ferragamo! But there were a lot of times when we were wrong like Dundas for Cavalli and Copping for ODLR, to just name a few.

There is a big difference between Frida and some of those other designers . For one thing, she would be an Italian designer going to an Italian house. Secondly, her aesthetic is perfectly suited for a house like Ferragamo. Gucci by Frida was all about sophisticated and understated luxury with just a hint of sex appeal. Isn't that what Italian fashion is all about? There was nothing Italian about Paul Andrew's frumpy attempt at Ferragamo. Frida will also have a huge upperhand hand in the accessories department. Her shoes and bags were fabulous. Her background in accessories alone would be worth hiring her for. If not Frida then I would gladly take Stefano Pilati. He was really doing great things at the end of his tenure at YSL. What a shame it turned out to be too little too late.

 

[arabchic]

You are right but tbh, it’s not like Frida was an outstanding designer at her time. Gucci was surely the less stimulating brand of Kering and certainly the less stimulating brand out of the big 10.

We didn’t have fireworks from Gucci so in a way I think that the expectations are somehow lower for both parties (the brand and the designer). The problem with a brand like Ferragamo is maybe the lack of coherence...

The house, despite the fact that it had never been a big player in the fashion landscape has always stand for something. And from Cristina Ortiz to Giornetti, there was some sort of coherence that they decided to destroy.

Even if they don’t choose Frida, to continue in that direction would be totally ridiculous. Nobody goes to Ferragamo for clothes so, there’s no need to propose a Celine inspired aesthetic when the market is saturated.

Frida praised MGC’s work for Dior so I guess she is still in that sort of basic lane she was. But she knows how to sell the idea of Glamour and she is good as accessoires.

She was a precursor in that sort of Zara deluxe fashion after all. She would maybe have better reviews today than she had before.

Can you name the big 10?
(Between your posts always amaze me!)

 

[Lola701]

If not Frida then I would gladly take Stefano Pilati. He was really doing great things at the end of his tenure at YSL. What a shame it turned out to be too little too late.

He didn’t have the best reputation coming out of YSL and I think he even expressed it. Being portrayed as difficult is not easy. He said that apart from Zegna (who he knew for a longtime), no one really called. Frida had also a very « difficult » image post Gucci but I guess she has some sort of relations in the Italian fashion community.

What he did for Agnona was great. I feel like what he did for Zegna was almost a waste. So much fanfare and energy for a glorified PR stunt is a total waste of talent (even if it did wonders for his personal finances).

Can you name the big 10?
(Between your posts always amaze me!)

When I say big 10, it’s fashion brands in terms of « importance » more than relevance. And of course, big luxury players like Cartier cannot be included.
Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès, Gucci, Dior, Prada, Burberry, Armani, YSL, Bottega Veneta

 

[perhydrol]

Berluti

Out: Kris Van Assche

 

[helmutnotdead]

hahaha well deserved, b*tches.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

To have Kris for only 3 years, they could have kept Haider... He was the best fit for Berluti.

 

[Olaffo]

No successor will be named so Berluti will most likely drop some collabs and/or stay with savoir fare aka bespoke shoes.

KVA should go back to his own brand bc I absolutely adore his sneakers and tailoring.

 

[Lola701]

To have Kris for only 3 years, they could have kept Haider... He was the best fit for Berluti.

Antoine has been nothing more than a disappointment. All his siblings delivered. He had one job with Berluti and made bad decisions after bad decisions...

 

[THD96]

Obviously LVMH think Kris is not hype enough so he was let go. My guess the next designer will be "more street, hype beast". Alexandre already suggest his favorite, he in NYC right now so who knows.

No one safe at LVMH, 14 years working for them and this is how they treat him. They let Haider go so they can put Kris in only to let him go in 3 years. What's the point?

 

[Lola701]

Obviously LVMH think Kris is not hype enough so he was let go. My guess the next designer will be "more street, hype beast". Alexandre already suggest his favorite, he in NYC right now so who knows.

No one safe at LVMH, 14 years working for them and this is how they treat him. They let Haider go so they can put Kris in only to let him go in 3 years. What's the point?

They treated him very good. He has been very corporate and nobody can say that he wasn’t supported. Maybe he can revive his own line...Or they will send him at Fendi.

The Berluti clientele is not prepared for yellow suits, orange suits and all. It was a bad idea. Antoine didn’t let Haider establish himself and was clearly chasing the wrong path with Kris.

Even if she is responsible for MGC at Dior, Delphine is the only one who seems to have some sense of fashion. Alexandre has the merit of understanding his generation for the best (what he did at Rimowa) and the worst (Virgil and Matthew even if Virgil is doing wonders for Vuitton menswear).

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Honestly the beginning of KVA at Berluti was good. Enough for Berluti. But then the rainbow collections, the hybrid sneakers, Ricky Martin as ambassadors, the awful collab with some contemporary artists and so on were just awful.

Their campaigns were also quite weak but everything had potential. LVMH needs to accept that not all their brands need hype for godsake.

I have stopped believing in LVMH since MGC has been hired. I really enjoy the brand at Kering.

 

[velvetandsilk]

They treated him very good. He has been very corporate and nobody can say that he wasn’t supported. Maybe he can revive his own line...Or they will send him at Fendi.

Maybe at Pucci. Sometimes I feel they forget about this brand, but Pucci has good potential to producing silk clothes and accessories.

Honestly the beginning of KVA at Berluti was good. Enough for Berluti. But then the rainbow collections, the hybrid sneakers, Ricky Martin as ambassadors, the awful collab with some contemporary artists and so on were just awful.

These strange strategies due to Antoine wanted copy Alexandre idea for Rimowa, but he doesn't have taste and understand Berluti customers.

I really enjoy the brand at Kering.

IMO @Lola701 has right. LVMH problems is lack of taste Arnault's kids. All family look like classic dull bourgeois. They are hard-working but not fashion lovers. They promote designer whom they like. In Kering you have different people focused on customers and profit but they are more brutal when profit it is not appropriate.

 

[vetements]

They treated him very good. He has been very corporate and nobody can say that he wasn’t supported. Maybe he can revive his own line...Or they will send him at Fendi.

The Berluti clientele is not prepared for yellow suits, orange suits and all. It was a bad idea. Antoine didn’t let Haider establish himself and was clearly chasing the wrong path with Kris.

Even if she is responsible for MGC at Dior, Delphine is the only one who seems to have some sense of fashion. Alexandre has the merit of understanding his generation for the best (what he did at Rimowa) and the worst (Virgil and Matthew even if Virgil is doing wonders for Vuitton menswear).

I can totally believe that he has been very corporate, otherwise, I dont see how he could have stayed at Dior for so long producing seasons after seasons of snooze-festy clothes that have weird elements (like adding a pocket on the arms, or a different material halfway across the body below the torso, that scored zero in terms of aesthetics or design-value.

His Berluti, I thought was actually a little better since the brand has a way cleaner slate than say Dior Homme/ Givenchy mens etc, but alas it proved to be the wrong fit.

Sincerely Berluti wont be turned into another hypebeast brand by the next designer.