Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[blueorchid]

He can do

So if Jacquemus got selected, he will do his own brand as well? being at Chanel demands lots of time and energy....

Do we really think his eponymous brand takes that much time and energy to design?

 

[NYLA22]

Lauren Sherman said he’s getting interviewed, doesn’t mean he’s being picked for the job. Though he will probably be seriously considered, Chanel clearly wants someone who can make it a spectacle again, and like him or not, he’s a branding genius.

In that sense, I feel like Thom Browne (who was also mentioned as a contender) would make more sense for Chanel -- I am not a fan of his pretentious shows, but they are certainly a spectacle!

 

[tourbillions]

In that sense, I feel like Thom Browne (who was also mentioned as a contender) would make more sense for Chanel -- I am not a fan of his pretentious shows, but they are certainly a spectacle!

his vibe is too niche... he would fit something like mcqueen more. I think chanel wants someone more commercial like their vaccarello.

 

[Xone]

He can do

Do we really think his eponymous brand takes that much time and energy to design?

for his label of course not, but Chanel will squeeze him...my point is if Chanel will allow him to do his own label, bc i understand they need someone who will be devoted to them 100%...and he is not Lagerfeld obviously that can do multiple brands...

 

[blueorchid]

for his label of course not, but Chanel will squeeze him...my point is if Chanel will allow him to do his own label, bc i understand they need someone who will be devoted to them 100%...and he is not Lagerfeld obviously that can do multiple brands...

Yeah, I still don't think it's going to take up too much of his energy.

 

[Lola701]

In that sense, I feel like Thom Browne (who was also mentioned as a contender) would make more sense for Chanel -- I am not a fan of his pretentious shows, but they are certainly a spectacle!

He is quite limited…
Too similar to Chanel in some ways too…

 

[Creative]

for his label of course not, but Chanel will squeeze him...my point is if Chanel will allow him to do his own label, bc i understand they need someone who will be devoted to them 100%...and he is not Lagerfeld obviously that can do multiple brands...

People really have this idea about the creative directors spending 19 hours per day in the studio… the reality is usually not like that. Some of them spend some time in the atelier, some others don’t. I remember when I was working at a certain brand I saw the CD once every month in the office for the fittings 🤪

These brands have many people working and the job of a CD is quite easy if you ask me. It’s harder for the people below them. Also, it depends on how much of a perfectionist you are, and we could say Jacquemus is actually an imperfeccionist 🫣

 

[Cocteau Stone]

These brands have many people working and the job of a CD is quite easy if you ask me. It’s harder for the people below them. Also, it depends on how much of a perfectionist you are, and we could say Jacquemus is actually an imperfeccionist 🫣

He's certainly managed to harness is "imperfectionist" attitude as something humble and relatable from a marketing perspective but that wouldn't lend itself to say Chanel. However, you can also tell he isn't one to be at the atelier/office all that much for his namesake so I doubt he'd be anymore attentive at Chanel. He's no Lagerfeld at his desk with all those book, Alber in the studios joking with the petite mains, Azzedine by his mannequin at all times, or Toledo experimenting with fabrics.

He's always had a team, much like a lot of these newer CDs and designers. I think that has made for a massive pitfall in fashion nowadays. Mainly because you see these designers with all this crew to help them out and work together, and what is presented is still not that great 😂

 

[jeanclaude]

He's certainly managed to harness is "imperfectionist" attitude as something humble and relatable from a marketing perspective but that wouldn't lend itself to say Chanel. However, you can also tell he isn't one to be at the atelier/office all that much for his namesake so I doubt he'd be anymore attentive at Chanel. He's no Lagerfeld at his desk with all those book, Alber in the studios joking with the petite mains, Azzedine by his mannequin at all times, or Toledo experimenting with fabrics.

He's always had a team, much like a lot of these newer CDs and designers. I think that has made for a massive pitfall in fashion nowadays. Mainly because you see these designers with all this crew to help them out and work together, and what is presented is still not that great 😂

So many brains...so little ideas!

 

[THD96]

Mulier has been named in the endless talk about the open job at Chanel; he’s one of just a few contenders up to the task, but let’s hope he doesn’t rush off. His Alaïa is so good, and he’s having so much fun.

Source: vogue.com

Okay, who has naming him for Chanel???

 

[GoldenPetals]

 

[PDFSD]

People really have this idea about the creative directors spending 19 hours per day in the studio… the reality is usually not like that. Some of them spend some time in the atelier, some others don’t. I remember when I was working at a certain brand I saw the CD once every month in the office for the fittings 🤪

These brands have many people working and the job of a CD is quite easy if you ask me. It’s harder for the people below them. Also, it depends on how much of a perfectionist you are, and we could say Jacquemus is actually an imperfectionist 🫣

Also because they have to do all the other things like meetings people /seeing projects, be on set of big shootings, go to gala´s ,hang out with new famous friends to support them, do other favors for famous friends, work on private interests project from own homes or culture projects , get cosmetic work done dealing with lovers husbands wives kids dogs cats private house managing via second or 3th assistante, signing letters or flower cards for many people birthdays approving many projects of the brand meetings meetings etc etc

i am serious :-)

 

[GoldenPetals]

Get ready for Chanel to be the next Balenciaga!

 

[yslforever]

People really have this idea about the creative directors spending 19 hours per day in the studio… the reality is usually not like that. Some of them spend some time in the atelier, some others don’t. I remember when I was working at a certain brand I saw the CD once every month in the office for the fittings 🤪

These brands have many people working and the job of a CD is quite easy if you ask me. It’s harder for the people below them. Also, it depends on how much of a perfectionist you are, and we could say Jacquemus is actually an imperfeccionist 🫣

So just like Karl then ... he came once or twice a month in each studio.
But basically both Hedi, Anthony and Kim Jones has said that studio time is less than 10% of their time.

 

[IndigoHomme]

knowyourmeme

 

[NYLA22]

So just like Karl then ... he came once or twice a month in each studio.
But basically both Hedi, Anthony and Kim Jones has said that studio time is less than 10% of their time.

I always chuckle when I see on IG that Anthony has been in L.A. for weeks at a time lol.

 

[yslforever]

I always chuckle when I see on IG that Anthony has been in L.A. for weeks at a time lol.

Hedi already did that when at YSL, also at Celine.
Nicolas does it too, he has owned several houses there already, and his bf is from LA.
Anthony rents but spends a lot of time there for Saint-Laurent Productions, you could say he is not very interested in fashion anymore.
But both Nicolas and Anthony have teams and assistants in LA and Paris, I don't know if Hedi has more than his former photographing team here now.

It's not really a very big disturbance because Pinault lives in LA part-time, and for Nicolas, the Arnaults all have very extensive real estate. They are literally playing Monopoly in Beverly Hills right now, Bernard Arnault even drives himself in his own car (while being paranoid in France), and they own private Airbus A350s (not the company planes) to jump between LA and Paris.

As for Karl, I have seen him designing several collections for various houses (Chanel, Chloé, Fendi) in a couple of hours, all the very same day, then just send couriers to the studios and calling to explain the sketches, giving instructions for the fabrics and colourways. I have seen him faxing entirely collections too. Then I assume he would go in the studio when the "toiles" are ready and for choosing the fabrics. That's where and when good premières and assistants like Virginie Viard are needed but that does not give them any distinctive visions or talent by association.

Yves also always designed at home, Deauville, Paris or Marrakech, he went to the studio to choose fabrics with Anne-Marie Munoz and Loulou de la Falaise, design the smaller elements, and finish the cut and tailoring.

 

[NYLA22]

and they own private Airbus A350s (not the company planes) to jump between LA and Paris.

JFC that is insane, like Saudi royal family level of decadence. (Since it's not their company planes, I'm guessing only Arnault/Pinault use them, not the CDs?). How much time do you think Anthony and Hedi spend in LA vs Paris?

 

[Lola701]

JFC that is insane, like Saudi royal family level of decadence. (Since it's not their company planes, I'm guessing only Arnault/Pinault use them, not the CDs?). How much time do you think Anthony and Hedi spend in LA vs Paris?

The CD is a millionaire himself. He can buy himself a plane ticket! Lol! La premiere d’Air France is not bad…
I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that a Nicolas already jumped on that plane.

Tbh, if I was a very successful and fairly exposed designer, I’m not sure I would live in Paris either. I would choose Switzerland anyday.
But there are very cute and fairly safe areas in Paris and it’s not like those designers are Karl. And they lives mostly in the best arrondissement close to work.

It reminds me how I saw Guillaume Henry in St Germain Des Pres, walking totally unbothered, hands in the pocket. Being fairly unknown allows him to have that freedom.

We also have to mention that the living in Paris thing is a conversation we are having for people who have been established in their position. At Balenciaga, Nicolas was very very very much a Parisian and in the studio. Louis Vuitton is a large well oiled machine.

He can afford today to be in the studio just for the runway collections. The development of the caspules and commercial collections can be done through zoom calls.

Marc Jacobs was only there for the runway collections but most of the time he was travelling or in NYC.

 

[yslforever]

JFC that is insane, like Saudi royal family level of decadence. (Since it's not the company plane, I'm guessing only Arnault/Pinault use them, not the CDs?). How much time do you think Anthony and Hedi spend in LA vs Paris?

The Arnaults have 2, Xavier Niel, Delphine's husband, has one, fitted with 5 bedrooms.
Not sure the CDs use them though, I have seen them in the private club of Air France, for the VVVIP of Club 2000, so probably a lot of Air France 1st classe. I'd say 4 to 5 months a year in LA.

The CD is a millionaire himself. He can buy himself a plane ticket! Lol! La premiere d’Air France is not bad…
I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that a Nicolas already jumped on that plane.

Tbh, if I was a very successful and fairly exposed designer, I’m not sure I would live in Paris either. I would choose Switzerland anyday.
But there are very cute and fairly safe areas in Paris and it’s not like those designers are Karl. And they lives mostly in the best arrondissement close to work.

It reminds me how I saw Guillaume Henry in St Germain Des Pres, walking totally unbothered, hands in the pocket. Being fairly unknown allows him to have that freedom.

We also have to mention that the living in Paris thing is a conversation we are having for people who have been established in their position. At Balenciaga, Nicolas was very very very much a Parisian and in the studio. Louis Vuitton is a large well oiled machine.

He can afford today to be in the studio just for the runway collections. The development of the caspules and commercial collections can be done through zoom calls.

Marc Jacobs was only there for the runway collections but most of the time he was travelling or in NYC.

Travel allowances are usually in the contracts.
But outside of TFSers and Lola , current CDs are not celebrities for the general public, they are not bothered in the streets or gawked at in restaurants.
The most established ones live in posh and quiet areas of the 6th and 7th, already full of other successful professionnals. Any weather or TV anchorman will get more attention.

I think their main issue in Paris is meeting other CDs and fashion insiders on the daily basis. That would be annoying.