Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel? | Page 31 | the Fashion Spot

Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

MISS TWEED
6 October 2024

Musical chairs in the fashion world seem to be spinning out of control these days. Jonathan Anderson’s expected arrival at Dior, as reported by Miss Tweed on Friday, will trigger many rounds. Anderson’s move to Dior – which parent LVMH has not confirmed yet – comes fresh on the heels of Hedi Slimane’s exit from Celine announced this week, replaced by Michael Rider who left Ralph Lauren in the spring.


CHANEL


Slimane at Chanel is not the only option. You have the immensely talented John Galliano. He's about to become free as his contract with Maison Margiela ends this month and he's not planning on renewing it, as Miss Tweed previously reported. At least for now.It's possible that Galliano will do another show for Margiela next year "outside of this contract," a source close to the brand said.


Galliano wants to work for a much bigger brand, several sources said.
He would fit well at Chanel as he is a true couturier, the last of his ilk after the passing of former Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld in 2019. But in practice, he may not be able to sustain the rhythm of producing eight to 10 collections a year if not more - as did Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard after him. Hence, chances are slim that Galliano would go to Chanel.


Vogue editor Anna Wintour lobbied LVMH boss Bernard Arnault hard to take back Galliano for Dior but many people at LVMH were opposed to it, including members of the Arnault family and former Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who sacked him for his public anti-Semitic rants in a Paris bar in 2011. Since Michael Burke's retreat in the spring, Toledano has been unofficially running LVMH's Fashion Group, the division that runs all of LVMH's fashion brands but Dior and Louis Vuitton.


Galliano's troubled past and reputation as a tyrant towards his staff may prevent the Wertheimers to hire him. Lagerfeld was never easy, but he looked after the members of his teams, particularly as he grew older.


If Galliano is not offered an attractive alternative, he may end up staying at Margiela and will have just made a small pause to give him the freedom to weigh his options.


There has been industry chatter about Simon Jacquemus joining Chanel. Somehow, it's difficult to see how the 34-year-old French designer would be capable of doing this big job and remain laser-focused on his eponymous brand at the same time. The Jacquemus label has had a strong decade, but its growth in the past year has been hampered by the current downturn in spending. And the brand has had to put some store opening plans on hold. Making matters worse, the quality of Jacquemus products, particularly handbags, in relation to the high price they command, has been criticized on social networks. Going to Chanel could threaten the future of his brand - something the French designer may not be willing to
 
I think any designer could “fit” Chanel, it’s a very easy brand to design for since Karl really did a great job with defining the codes.

I can imagine Galliano even, more inspired by his 20s side, but tbh, I’m not interested in that though. I feel Chanel needs contemporary easy fashion.
 
Chanel and Hermes did not take covid money from the government they paid their workers and kept it moving , in general people that could spend more on luxury goods as there was not much else to do etc

Chanel was doing well and had good numbers before HR lady they publish numbers since a few years they don't have to but they did it to stop the rumors about take over etc but also to show how big they are they been nr 2 in size after lv for a while pre covid.

sure there are loopholes and ways to have tax cuts short term profits etc but bottom line they are doing well before HR lady and covid :-)
fiscal stimulus=>asset inflation (stocks, housing, etc.)=>higher consumption.
 
fiscal stimulus=>asset inflation (stocks, housing, etc.)=>higher consumption.
this is widespread also for watches and cars luxury consumption, its not unique to Chanel for that period but you cant say pre covid they were doing less than great either.

of course when spending is strong top brands benefit from it, but some are also weather the storm better because the client base is resilient to economic lesser favorable situations like Hermes.
 
I

I guess you are really young, correct me if I'm wrong, and probably born in 90s, so I can understand you dont know his early work, like Galliano Fall 1994 :winkiss:
Believe me, I saw pictures of his early shows and that just confirms my opinion.
 
Do you think the Weirthemers would take the risk to hire him at the helm of Chanel? Knowing that Bruno Pavlovsky is part of the Chambre Syndicale and very involved and aware of the way some designers conduct themselves in the industry?
Exactly...is less likely at all to happen...maybe other house can take the risk but no Chanel...specially the bad precedent of his behavior (he stop the drinking at Margiela?) and the amount of pressure to do so many things as Chanel's CD....AW is the only one rooting for him and maybe she will find him a house who take him...
 
I think we often rule out new stars when thinking of who will take the helm at the big houses.

Also, a reminder that no one expected John to get Givenchy or Christian Dior- and he got both roles. John understands artistry and respects the archives, even when he adds his own vision to the label where he directs.

I don't like Hedi at Chanel, I don't want Kim Jones at Chanel, I wouldn't mind Jacquemus at Chanel (but I know all y'all have deeeeeeeeep feelings on that). The Olsens could be interesting. Chitoshe Abe (yes, ima keep saying it) would be fire.

All I know is, they need to hurry up. We been waiting on an announcement all year long, damn near.
 
sure if we want chanel stuck in the 60s
but he can do 80 ´s tink 90´s twink 00´s twink 70´s twink 5o´s twink also future twink he shown at dior so he id the only right person we know of to do it justice commercial and sharp and wholistic ...would not ind chanel mens by him it would make the brand go even bigger all the birkin kelly fem boys will save money to spend on chanel RTW.

Bruno knows what the best choice is he is not that much of a idiot .
 

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