Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[Creative]

Then that can only be Jacquemus if by change of generation means poorly constructed garments and a one trick pony vision.

 

[PDFSD]

CHANEL executive warns luxury industry worst hit by customer fatigue​

Posted On October 30, 2024 CPP-LUXURY

In an interview with Swiss newspaper Le Temps, Frédéric Grangié said the industry’s most worrying issue is customer fatigue and the trivialisation of luxury. “Customers are tired of being bludgeoned by luxury,” Grangié said, forecasting two years of difficult business.

The biggest challenge for the luxury sector today is not the general macroeconomic context or the weakness of key markets like China, but customer fatigue with a luxury industry that seems increasingly banal, CHANEL Watches and Jewellery president Frédéric Grangié told Swiss newspaper Le Temps.

While the first two factors are cyclical and will pass, “the third factor is much more worrying, and explains why this crisis could last longer than others. One could call it the trivialisation of luxury; I call it ‘luxury fatigue’,” Grangie said. “Customers are tired of being bludgeoned by luxury,” the executive added.
Exquisite, exclusive creations are at the heart of what keeps customers excited about and loyal to a luxury brand.
An overly commercial approach to fuelling luxury growth has weakened the allure brands have held over many years. “Over-distribution is a major risk factor at the moment,” Grangié said.

Chanel has a more exclusive store network than its main competitors, including a footprint in China that is three or four times smaller, shielding it from dampened enthusiasm for luxury in the region, Grangié said. Family ownership that prioritises long-term choices is another strength.
Overall, Grangié warns the next two years will be difficult for the industry. “We’re going to have to be vigilant. But there will be an advantage for houses with exclusive distribution.”
Chanel is one of the houses known for resisting cycles. This is certainly also the case in the turmoil that the luxury industry is currently experiencing. But since the company is not listed on the stock exchange, no interim figures are published – consolidated results are generally given in the spring. Frédéric Grangié chairs the watches and jewelry business. He does not confirm any trends, but his answers indicate that everything is in place to get through this period without any problems: very moderate exposure to China, direct distribution, strategy set for 2050.

 

[nationalsalt]

If that’s the case it will be the team the one dying at Chanel, because finding a Karl in 2024 is just impossible. The context would not allow a designer to develop a career like Karl’s. It just won’t happen. We live in the Instagram era, in the momentum era…

I really doubt they think that, though. You just need to have eyes to see how the industry devores designers and how the industry works. They last 5 years at most in the top, then they fall into irrelevance, people get tired and numbers get red.

It’s like that… they would eventually need to play the game.

I think Marc could’ve been a great option if we were in 2007, now… he is so out of touch.

Hedi I think won’t be able to last for more than 5/6 years… he always ends up arguing with somebody and I think Chanel is not ready for that.

Jacquemus… well we better not talk about him.

Phoebe Philo would’ve been a nice option but she launched his label and I think she doesn’t even care about fashion anymore…

Nicolas is doing terrible at LV.

Who else? These are the only names that could’be had a chance.

Thom Browne?

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

"new balance of power"??
what does this mean?
one designer for womens and... another one for mens?

 

[couturefan]

"new balance of power"??
what does this mean?
one designer for womens and... another one for mens?

One for RTW and one for Couture maybe?

 

[jeanclaude]

New Balance X Chanel...a new stupid collaboration??

 

[Olaffo]

I hope it’s gonna be someone completely unknown and we all gonna sh*t ourselves from excitement…

 

[tourbillions]

change of generation sounds like they're going with jacquemus or someone young. grazioli pls i can see his last collection being chanelified... even the colors remind me of the supermarket colleciton.

 

[tourbillions]

New Balance X Chanel...a new stupid collaboration??

haha i dont think they need this collab... i honestly think chanel sneakers are a bit more comfy than new balance specially the tweed ones.

 

[HigthaVandah]

If they want someone who will die at Chanel just call Armani or Valentino, they will sure do

Armani to Chanel, Slimane to Armani. It's all becoming clear now.

 

[HigthaVandah]

You just need to have eyes to see how the industry devores designers and how the industry works. They last 5 years at most in the top, then they fall into irrelevance, people get tired and numbers get red.

It’s like that… they would eventually need to play the game.

Hedi I think won’t be able to last for more than 5/6 years… he always ends up arguing with somebody.

This is why I'm so tolerant of Hedi as a industry phenomenon. He sees the cycle you described for what it is and rides it skillfully. He takes a job, uses it to add to his oeuvre (and personal wealth), and leaves when he decides it's no longer in his best interest to stay. It's just more of the same kind of unremarkable business moves the investment companies make all the time, but for some reason it's surprised Pikachu face when one of "the talent" learns to play the game at such a high level.

 

[fashionlov]

If that’s the case it will be the team the one dying at Chanel, because finding a Karl in 2024 is just impossible. The context would not allow a designer to develop a career like Karl’s. It just won’t happen. We live in the Instagram era, in the momentum era…

I really doubt they think that, though. You just need to have eyes to see how the industry devores designers and how the industry works. They last 5 years at most in the top, then they fall into irrelevance, people get tired and numbers get red.

It’s like that… they would eventually need to play the game.

I think Marc could’ve been a great option if we were in 2007, now… he is so out of touch.

Hedi I think won’t be able to last for more than 5/6 years… he always ends up arguing with somebody and I think Chanel is not ready for that.

Jacquemus… well we better not talk about him.

Phoebe Philo would’ve been a nice option but she launched his label and I think she doesn’t even care about fashion anymore…

Nicolas is doing terrible at LV.

Who else? These are the only names that could’be had a chance.

Why does no one consider Pierpaolo Piccioli as an option?

 

[Creative]

Why does no one consider Pierpaolo Piccioli as an option?

If he didn’t manage to bring a little bit of excitement to Valentino, how could he be considered for Chanel?

Valentino has been struggling under him… and even though I don’t have strong feeling towards him, he is just too basic. Him or the studio is almost the same tbh.

 

[Creative]

Regarding the article @PDFSD posted, I’ve been talking non stop about that for the last 6/7 years. It’s what it is. What they’ve done with fashion brands is a crime. They’ve cheapened them next level, a la Cardin in a way, and they get surprised it’s not longer working when they already saw that it didn’t work with Cardin…

I keep fighting to cancel this aim of 40% VS LY growth… its so absurd, so exhausting, so short term. But oh well, people want to have their bonus at the end of the year.

 

[LadyJunon]

Hear me out, I actually think that Pierpaolo would be the best choice for the brand. Performance aside, his solo Valentino work (runway and red carpet) always blew up on social media and were consistently well received by the press. As a person, he's relatively palatable and unabrasive. Also, seeing that Chanel's CD job is centered mainly around seasonal collections and runway shows, bags and image direction wouldn't really be an very minimal issue for him, as they're managed by other seperate teams.

 

[Lola701]

If he didn’t manage to bring a little bit of excitement to Valentino, how could he be considered for Chanel?

Valentino has been struggling under him… and even though I don’t have strong feeling towards him, he is just too basic. Him or the studio is almost the same tbh.

struggling is a strong word no?
Valentino increased constantly from the moment he took over until 2023. The sales were down 5% in 2023 but so far, he can’t be ashamed of his time at the house.

 

[nationalsalt]

I know they're long shots, but I'd love to see what Olivier Theyskens, Simone Rocha or Christian Lacroix would do there.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

The article posted by PDFSD is very interesting. I don't know how they do it these execs at Chanel, but their predictions are usually spot on.
Unlike other houses, if you are not smart, you have no place at Chanel.

And if Mr. Grangié warns the next two years are going to be difficult for the industry, we can fasten our seatbelts very tight.


As for the future heir to Chanel, my choice was Jeremy, but I see very probably Hedi there.
Of the names in the lasts posts, Thom Browne would be also a good choice.
And Lacroix would be totally unexpected and a blast. He still has "the hand", with costumes for opera and theatre.
I have the feeling that he loves his peace and freedom and his interests are not being at the helm of a powerhouse, but who knows.

For the rest of the names, Pierpaolo, Marc, Phoebe, Jacquemus, Olivier R., Olivier T., Riccardo, John, Nicolas, Guillaume Henry... I don't see any of them, for a variety of reasons, mostly not related to the quality of their work.