Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[Caffeine]

WWD also reporting:

I guess the rumored budget is true

 

[Living Proof]

There was a rumour floating around here earlier this year that Kering could be selling off their brands (semi-believable seeing how Pinault is Pinault). If that's actually the case, it voids the that part of the contract as new owners tend to axe employees, especially the higher-ups.

Would they really sell off their 3rd biggest earner and the most momentous brand in the group?

 

[nationalsalt]

I wouldn't be surprised if there is some truth to that.

However, MissTweed now says Jacquemus himself spread the rumor about him being considered for Chanel. Especially given the timing, as he's seeking a minority investor for his business.

I guess if you knew you weren't actually in the running and didn't have to worry about pissing off the Wertheimers, there'd be no harm in generating a bit of buzz for yourself when seeking a minority investor? Quite canny (and a tad unscrupulous) on his part if so.

Maybe Blazy is just after a raise at Kering and doing the same?

 

[Frederic01]

Blazy at Chanel will basically do the same thing he is doing now at Bottega, minus the intrecciato, and with price point double or triple that of what his Bottega is. Is that what people really what at Chanel?

Besides, his aesthetic is far too experimental and avant-garde for a brand like Chanel. The clientele at Chanel are notoriously basic. This is not the brand, and has never been the brand, that people who want to buy fashion-forward and modern clothes go.

Karl might have experimented with bold propositions in his Haute Couture, but at the end of the day, it was the Virigine Viard things that appealed to people most : t-shirts with logos, classic Chanel jackets, blouses with basic seasonal prints, classic jeans, etc etc.

The true heir to Chanel herself, and I am not talking about the brand Chanel as a business, is Phoebe Philo. All these other designers are exciting prospects, but inherently have little to do with the founder and the principles of style she stood for.

 

[yslforever]

There was a rumour floating around here earlier this year that Kering could be selling off their brands (semi-believable seeing how Pinault is Pinault). If that's actually the case, it voids the that part of the contract as new owners tend to axe employees, especially the higher-ups.

Me: Kering board members (and C-suits) were openly discussing all the opportunities, off the minutes of the board meeting. They were ready to sell anything for a good price, or if it could help Gucci (but as a matter of fact, funding is not among Gucci's main problems), or even selling Gucci to buy other brands. Whatever necessary to raise the shareholders value. They were even ready to go back to Mayhoola, either to renegotiate the Valentino deal, or to sell them a brand or two.
As you may know there are M&A bankers on the board and as it turned out, now is NOT the time to sell, they would not get a good price, but all the options are here, there are less discussed.
Now board members are focused on reducing their exposure and cost, and on closing the non-performing stores - just like LVMH and DFS is doing right now.
And they are crossing their fingers for Cantino.

 

[HigthaVandah]

far too experimental and avant-garde for a brand like Chanel. The clientele at Chanel are notoriously basic.

So we've come full circle back to Hedi?

Guys, it’s Telfar Clemens!

No. It's Stefano Gallici.

 

[Lola701]

Karl might have experimented with bold propositions in his Haute Couture, but at the end of the day, it was the Virigine Viard things that appealed to people most : t-shirts with logos, classic Chanel jackets, blouses with basic seasonal prints, classic jeans, etc etc.

Maybe it’s time to go back to some sense and stop the Virginie machine.
Under Karl they sold mostly knitwear and tweed stuff (and I know it from a trusted and legit source).
I don’t think selling tacky denim with printed CC, glued sequins on denim is helping the brand. They went from seasonal it-shirts to be in reality a tacky CC fest.

It’s time to go back to a certain form of elitism I think.
I still love the tweed and the knitwear but it was painful seeing the stuff I saw during Virginie’s era.

Much like Bernard Arnault stopped the j’Adore Dior madness in 2006, Bruno needs to stop the current madness.

Commercial success with too much easy compromise is always questionable to me.

 

[rowjellies]

I know Daniel Lee is fuming at these rumors right now.

 

[badgalcrush]

It is getting ridiculous , what is next ? The Olsens sisters taking over Chanel , Bernard Arnault probably secured Blazy for now knowing Bottega is one the hottest brand of the group. Aren't they supposed to reveal the new DA next month right ? Making all this nonsense to end

 

[jeremydante]

The speculation is truly exhausting. Cut the bullsh*t and pick someone.
I did not think Matthieu was even part of the rotation of consideration; what he's done at Bottega is commendable, but Chanel has a cool factor that is much more visible and an easier lift than what he had to do at Bottega.

That said, Matthieu's past work at Calvin Klein during the Raf era, and at Céline during the Phoebe Philo era, as well as the Margiela artisanal couture credit under his belt- there is significant skills he possesses that could allow it to work. One things for sure, Chanel ain't no Bottega- the house code is more strict the customer is better defined and a deeper history.

We'll see. But hurry TF up and make a decision already. I want a decision announced before Christmas.
And where's Virginie?

 

[DILF]

 

[youthinasia]

Lindsay Lohan for Chanel

 

[jeanclaude]

I just hope he does not put Nº5 into a turd-shaped bottle...

 

[Lola701]

And where's Virginie?

Probably enjoying her life, reflecting on her career and future, spending time in Monaco or whatever.
I read that the succession of Karl was settled so she is surely enjoying the couple of millions she inherited from him lol

 

[LadyJunon]

What I really hate about this specific discourse is that Chanel is obviously trying to drum up excitement for the new appointement.

The issue with this, however, is that if the announcement doesn't live up to the expectations, or worse, the debut collection is a flop, the backlash will be violent. They had 5 years to look for a replacement, but the success of Viard's collections probably made them way too complacent with a designer that was obviously supposed to be a interim.

 

[Frederic01]

Maybe it’s time to go back to some sense and stop the Virginie machine.
Under Karl they sold mostly knitwear and tweed stuff (and I know it from a trusted and legit source).
I don’t think selling tacky denim with printed CC, glued sequins on denim is helping the brand. They went from seasonal it-shirts to be in reality a tacky CC fest.

It’s time to go back to a certain form of elitism I think.
I still love the tweed and the knitwear but it was painful seeing the stuff I saw during Virginie’s era.

Much like Bernard Arnault stopped the j’Adore Dior madness in 2006, Bruno needs to stop the current madness.

Commercial success with too much easy compromise is always questionable to me.

I agree with you 100% Lola, but it will never happen. Unfortunately Virginie's tackarama outsold Karl's by a lot, so this is where the taste level of the Chanel client currently is, and hence where the money is. The Wertheimer's couldn't care less about the values or vision of Gabrielle Chanel. They only care about appearing successful in those annual fiscal reports and that's it.

The problem now is that whoever comes on board has the almost impossible challenge of making Chanel "cool" again. Because at the moment, it's kind of embarrassing to be wearing Chanel. The people who wear it these days are not the kind of people you want to be compared to or grouped together with. You rarely see women with truly superb style wearing Chanel these days.

I think this is partially because the idea of good taste has evolved rapidly in the last few years, and Chanel has not evolved with it unfortunately. They are still stuck in 2005 and it's current clientele with them.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I own that HS Chanel jacket from FW 2006 Lola is referring to.

I dont believe this.

Also Hedis similarity to Karl is that everyone said Karl was a talentless hack for decades. But here we are. When Hedi passed away we will be looking for the next Hedi.

I wasn’t aware this particular jacket was also made as an evening option in grain de poudre smoking wool with silk duchess accents until I found one on Ebay a while back - A simple yet strikingly beautiful jacket, although really, other than the contrasting edges, the cut and construction of it is closer to the tailoring of a military uniform jacket than the decidedly unstructured nature of a Chanel cardigan-style tweed jacket.

 

[velvetandsilk]

They won't hire Marc because when he had talks about Dior a long time ago, he only wanted to design 4 collections and live in NYC