Dolce & Gabbana Menswear S/S 2024 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[LadyJunon]

I wonder what was in their head when they decided to not put shoes on ⅔ of the looks.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ It’s their tribute to the Tabi.

But oh my goodness, the opening look with the perfect shoulders and Japanese influence is just luscious. It’s all very late-90s/early-2000s Dolce when they were so supreme and flirted with Japanese flourishes while strongly maintaining their Sicilian silhouette. It’s only expected that it sort of spirals downward after that opening look LOL Oh well… some very solid suiting when they bothered with tailoring and not one-size-fits-all sloppiness. No man over the age of 18 looks remotely dignified and not unlike an overgrown toddler in these silly baggy/oversized suits/coats. It’s silly even on the models. This label isn’t Balenciaga.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

If they put aside the need to be trendy or to appeal to the millennial/generation Z or whatever , it would have been great.

At least they are back to their senses but I can’t root for them because they are way too problematic.

 

[WAVES]

there are a lot of good pieces and I only wish it had been edited down.

seems indeed they are back to their senses.

 

[Scotty]

They need their hunks back.

 

[yslforever]

there are a lot of good pieces and I only wish it had been edited down.

seems indeed they are back to their senses.

Yes, probably because there are no prints at all, just like last collection. Their prints are usually just silly and dumb-looking.

 

[ah ah]

Avoiding the colors and prints is helping this collection. Are there nice looks? Yes! Is the collection good? No. It still feels messy and tacky but better than some of their previous attempts.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

^^^ It’s their tribute to the Tabi.

But oh my goodness, the opening look with the perfect shoulders and Japanese influence is just luscious. It’s all very late-90s/early-2000s Dolce when they were so supreme and flirted with Japanese flourishes while strongly maintaining their Sicilian silhouette. It’s only expected that it sort of spirals downward after that opening look LOL Oh well… some very solid suiting when they bothered with tailoring and not one-size-fits-all sloppiness. No man over the age of 18 looks remotely dignified and not unlike an overgrown toddler in these silly baggy/oversized suits/coats. It’s silly even on the models. This label isn’t Balenciaga.

It's so true about the opening look but something about them being broken clocks that are right twice a day kind of ruins the feeling. Maybe that's me being stupid but I think it parallels with how sometimes I can be more open to an "ugly" design or something that I don't quite understand from someone I trust and respect. Yeah yeah yeah treat everyone fairly and don't be black and white but man they really are just so switched off for me I can't get around immediately rejecting what they do before giving it a chance to take it in. They fell off really hard and their broken creative bones and integrity never healed properly so they're fused incorrectly and all f*cked up now.

 

[christosxxv]

They need their hunks back.

LOUDER ‼️

 

[Phuel]

It's so true about the opening look but something about them being broken clocks that are right twice a day kind of ruins the feeling. Maybe that's me being stupid but I think it parallels with how sometimes I can be more open to an "ugly" design or something that I don't quite understand from someone I trust and respect. Yeah yeah yeah treat everyone fairly and don't be black and white but man they really are just so switched off for me I can't get around immediately rejecting what they do before giving it a chance to take it in. They fell off really hard and their broken creative bones and integrity never healed properly so they're fused incorrectly and all f*cked up now.

Frankly, once a label blows up and becomes an international household name brand, then it’s more or less the norm and not the exception that it’s the beginning of a decline, in terms of creative vision/creative integrity/creative lead etc etc blah blah blah… If only they maintained their their dignity and confidence in becoming an aging brand— rather than be so desperate to latch onto relevance with the children; and it’s not just fashion designers whom are guilty of this desperation… Every brand I once cherished that’s still in business has lost their lustre to some extend. I think it was @Mutterlein that posted a painful truth that designers and their loyal (sycophant) customers seem to really hate to admit: A designer’s impact and vision usually remains potent for about a decade. I’ll add that post-decade, they’re just coasting on their name brand— whether they’re a household name like these two, or even people like Theyskens/Yohji/Gaultier. At this point, they’re all past their prime, really. People worship Rei’s Comme like a cult/religion/rockstar and come to her defence even when she’s trolling them with her toddlers’ school play costumes for her current collections LOL

These two were never great even at their best— but they absolutely put out some of the most sensual designs, paired with supreme construction that just made a good body look that much better— and in such sumptuous fabrics and solid cuts. That’s all I want from them— or any designers in this current era (and it’s why as conservative as Maria Grazia's and Sarah Burton's may be, both are outclassing everyone with their straightup, no-nonsense designs and not gimmicks). None of them are capable or care to make the effort anymore to produce an offering that’s supreme from the first look to the last, and from head to toe, in this era. I’m good with the first look and a handful of the separates. I don’t need anyone to know I’m wearing Dolce— or any label for that matter. I’d rather people be convinced it’s all me LOL

 

[GoldenTribe]

They need their hunks back.

Just look at the latest Thom Browne show as a palette cleanser (the very first model looks angry and inbred, and it doesn't get much better from there with the dorky shaped sunglasses), then pop back in here and -- ta-da! -- they look pretty hunky on a relative basis.

But oh my goodness, the opening look with the perfect shoulders and Japanese influence is just luscious.

And on top of that, Kit Butler could sell me on a paper bag. Last time I saw one male model look this good in this many shows was Francisco Lachowski about a decade ago.

Every brand I once cherished that’s still in business has lost its lustre to some extent

You mentioned how you still wear Ossendrijver's Lanvin in some other thread recently -- I forget which one. I'm in the exact same boat; I think I have more Lanvin than any other brand, not just the number of pieces but the range of them (low-top sneakers, high-top sneakers, dress shoes, sandals, pants, shorts, shirts, a tie, blazers, and outerwear) and it's all from his tenure -- I haven't bought or desired a single piece since Bruno took over. But whenever I get too nostalgic, I have to remember that Lucas started flailing a little toward the end.

The last D&G show I actually liked was Winter 2020 full of big sumptuous chunky knits, but I'm glad to see them sticking to wearable items/colours again instead of continuing down the road of "Instagram nepo-babies dressed by Elton John."

Though I note the little callback year tags on the clothes (2010, 1991, and so on), and I have to wonder, haven't they already done a bunch of self-congratulatory retrospective shows? I could be mixing up brands, but it seems like they have gone through this before not too long ago.

 

[lhhbl]

Just look at the latest Thom Browne show as a palette cleanser (the very first model looks angry and inbred, and it doesn't get much better from there with the dorky shaped sunglasses), then pop back in here and -- ta-da! -- they look pretty hunky on a relative basis.




And on top of that, Kit Butler could sell me on a paper bag. Last time I saw one male model look this good in this many shows was Francisco Lachowski about a decade ago.


You mentioned how you still wear Ossendrijver's Lanvin in some other thread recently -- I forget which one. I'm in the exact same boat; I think I have more Lanvin than any other brand, not just the number of pieces but the range of them (low-top sneakers, high-top sneakers, dress shoes, sandals, pants, shorts, shirts, a tie, blazers, and outerwear) and it's all from his tenure -- I haven't bought or desired a single piece since Bruno took over. But whenever I get too nostalgic, I have to remember that Lucas started flailing a little toward the end.

The last D&G show I actually liked was Winter 2020 full of big sumptuous chunky knits, but I'm glad to see them sticking to wearable items/colours again instead of continuing down the road of "Instagram nepo-babies dressed by Elton John."

Though I note the little callback year tags on the clothes (2010, 1991, and so on), and I have to wonder, haven't they already done a bunch of self-congratulatory retrospective shows? I could be mixing up brands, but it seems like they have gone through this before not too long ago.

oh god kit butler is a dream. I could buy anything he wears

 

[mepps]

The casting is sublime. They almost never fail with the sexy male models.
The collection would be great, with some minor editing....somewhere in the middle.

 

[Lola701]

I don’t know, I don’t like it. I actually don’t like anything about it…

‘I prefer them doing the Sicilian guy than this. It had more charm, it felt more real, more sexy and confident than this.

‘This looks like a pastiche, cast included. It looks like they are trying to keep up with what’s going on when their vision of men for me was valid.

I think the cast makes it more pathetic.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Who buys their stuff any more?!?

 

[Nimsay]

The SAs already know if its a sheer shirt I want it. My hubbs luvs when I dress like a Sex Worker for dinner. That sheer full look is begging for a dinner at Nobu.

just take my f*cking money Domenico and Stefano.

 

[Drusilla_]

I think it was @Mutterlein that posted a painful truth that designers and their loyal (sycophant) customers seem to really hate to admit: A designer’s impact and vision usually remains potent for about a decade. I’ll add that post-decade, they’re just coasting on their name brand— whether they’re a household name like these two, or even people like Theyskens/Yohji/Gaultier. At this point, they’re all past their prime, really. People worship Rei’s Comme like a cult/religion/rockstar and come to her defence even when she’s trolling them with her toddlers’ school play costumes for her current collections LOL

These two were never great even at their best— but they absolutely put out some of the most sensual designs, paired with supreme construction that just made a good body look that much better— and in such sumptuous fabrics and solid cuts. That’s all I want from them— or any designers in this current era (and it’s why as conservative as Maria Grazia's and Sarah Burton's may be, both are outclassing everyone with their straightup, no-nonsense designs and not gimmicks). None of them are capable or care to make the effort anymore to produce an offering that’s supreme from the first look to the last, and from head to toe, in this era. I’m good with the first look and a handful of the separates. I don’t need anyone to know I’m wearing Dolce— or any label for that matter. I’d rather people be convinced it’s all me LOL

I don't know, I feel like on one hand this is true and on the other it's expecting far too much to expect designers to remain at the peak of relevance (in fashion terms) through their entire careers - with time and stability they pass into legacy act status with an aesthetic and philiosophy that they're known for, and that's fine, you know? It's just the nature of fashion.

And I'd argue that the window, for some of the more impactful ones, is closer to two decades than just one. I mean, Comme took off in what, 1981? And by spring 1997 the 'lumps and bumps' collection was still dominating fashion conversation. Likewise with McQueen, the later 00s did not see him losing steam creatively (I'm not a fan of his 2002-03 collections though).

With D&G I've never felt that they were trying to be especially original or revolutionary or that they were ever meant to be, the whole Sicilian thing is their groove and they inhabited it well but this collection does feel a touch messy (I do like the Japanese influence though, some of these looks are like they filtered Yohji through their perspective.