Van Noten Ties Up a Pretty Package
By ERIC WILSON
Published: October 7, 2005
PARIS, Oct. 6 - With Victorian collars, antique lace, baroque embroidery, Dadaist dresses, obi belts and a new wave of minimalism, the spring collections have traipsed through so many periods and influences that they are beginning to resemble pointillist dots (also a reference). Trying to untangle the complete picture is the kind of headache-inducing puzzle that makes looking at a collection from Dries van Noten such a relief. A designer whose range of ethnic references and sense for color know no boundaries can, in one show, bring harmony to such seemingly disparate elements.
Mr. van Noten, who works in Antwerp, Belgium, builds his collections on a base of textiles with a worn and natural hand, dyed and washed until they look about a million years old. Then he slowly blends them with a touch of finer fabrics, as in the rich brocade of gold foil he used in one example at his show on Wednesday. The stiff floor-length skirt was paired with a loose black blouse, its billowing sleeves almost carelessly rolled to the elbows. The only clue to a theme, which seemed to begin with a kimono and end somewhere along the spice route, was a black lacquered comb in the hair of a model, whose face was powdered and lips stained.