Dries Van Noten S/S 2015 Paris

[Inaya]

way too bonnarroo/glastonbury for me.. but of course some nice prints in there

 

[Littleathquakes]

this was such an acid trip and I loved it. I really am over the whole hobo chic thing, but I loved the presentation.

 

[LolaSvelt]

Why are all my absolute favourites disappointing me so far? I agree with HeatherAnne who likened it to a typical Etro collection.

I think there has always been a fine line between Dries' aesthetic and those generic boho brands. It's sad to say that I think he crossed it this season.

 

[fashionista-ta]

My eyes ...


Psychedelic, baby ... I wish I thought that were a good thing.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Sure he's known for his eclectic mix of ethnic prints and embellishment for rich chic "nomads", but it's usually executed with refinement, restraint, taste, tailoring, sense of proportion, colors, etc. underpinned by the modern, Belgian Antwerpen sensibility. With the exception of a few looks, this appears like Haider Ackermann interpreted by Cavali.

To me this says Summer of Love.


I can't help but think how very, very well he did grunge recently, and then compare that to this ...

 

[WilhelmF]

What a polarizing collection this is, but I do applaud his showmanship skills. The man knows how to create a moment.






crash.fr

 

[Moofins]

It isn't my favorite collection in recent memory by him (by a record breaking long shot), but the atmosphere of the show was amazing. I just wish the clothes matched the magic for me.

 

[gossiping]

the runway is soooo pretty, best of the season i like a lot of the looks though its very paul smith!

 

[cuppycakes]

I like that the collections is so everywhere at once. The mustard colored pants are lovely.

 

[eugenius]

I'm not ready to retire this thread just yet..

 

[softgrey]

one week later and i have a very different opinion of this whole thing...
i actually find this quite uplifting for some reason...
i guess it's the richness of the colours and the floatiness of some of the pieces...

or maybe my eyes just got used to it...
i don't know...
but i like it much better than i did at first glance...

 

[eugenius]

It seems like he put just as much thought in that carpet as Karl did in the makeshift streets of Paris chez Chanel..but I doubt anybody would say Van Noten's set was better than the clothes.

I think I'll have to be the odd-man-out here: the menswear definitely wasn't as good as the womenswear. But praise to Dries for offering solid collections for both teams :cool2:

 

[sore]

Style.com Review by Tim Blanks

The sheer beauty of Dries Van Noten's Spring collection was inspired by John Everett Millais' Ophelia, the Pre-Raphaelite image that launched a million hippie fantasies. In the painting, Ophelia floats dreamily in a magical woodland setting. Van Noten re-created the mood with dusky golden lighting and a mossy forest floor—actually a carpet specially created by the Argentinean artist Alexandra Kehayoglou. (It will be reused for special events around the world, Dries assured us.)

Van Noten also mentioned A Midsummer Night's Dream as a reference. The gossamer lightness and gilded fabrics loaned a fairy-tale element. Colors were deep and muted, as if illuminated by sunlight filtered through trees. There were dreamy intangibles, like the dresses made from tiers of chiffon floating from the thinnest straps, a twig of gold clasping the model's throat. Then there were more substantial things, like the diaphanous shirt in striped organza over silk shorts that was anchored by a striped tank in cut chiffon. The masculine elements that always weave their way into Van Noten's womenswear were delicately rendered here as necktie silks and pajama patterns in the filmiest fabrics. If the show was a stylist's triumph, layering the infinite gorgeous possibilities of color, pattern, and weight into persuasively coherent outfits, the foundation of it all was Van Noten's roots in Antwerp, a city where merchants once brought the world's most sumptuous exotica to market. In that spirit, the designer created fabrics that looked pieced together from brocades and hand-blocked silks; they were actually jacquards woven in one piece. (Van Noten shook his head as he recalled the complexity of the process.)

Van Noten is the past master of the nice touch—the invitation arriving as a small transparent box of moss, for instance. At the finale today, after the models had made their final march-past, they settled on the mossy carpet like languid dryads…or festivalgoers at the height of the original Summer of Love. And that pointed to the idealistic underpinnings of the collection. The news headlines reek of horror. It's fashion's job to remind us that beauty is a human need. Maybe even, as a great poet once wrote, a fundamental truth.

 

[sore]

Details


fashionising

I absolutely need one of these necklaces in my life.

 

[eugenius]

Thanks for those detail shots, sore. As somebody who's a sucker for all sorts of surface decoration, those top rows are really pulling at my heartstrings.